Do I need an engine cutoff switch for shifting?

[CLi87]

Hi there all,

I recently got a 1986 Bayliner Contessa with quite the frankenstein modification on it, someone ripped out the original Volvo Penta 350 and drive and replaced it with a Marine Power 7.4 which is basically the same as a Merc 7.4 and they mated the engine to an Alpha One outdrive. Everything runs great, my only concern is I noticed the shifter mechanism with the engine cutoff switch is not actually wired to anything, how necessary is it to have the cutoff working correctly and does anyone know what I should wire it to?

 

[alldodge]

With an Alpha drive, if it doesn't have a shift interrupter switch your not able to shift out of gear into neutral. Which ignition system does the motor have?

 

[CLi87]

Does that apply to all Alpha drives? This looks to be an early Gen 1, it says Mercruiser 233 on it but looks like an Alpha Gen 1. I haven't had a chance to take the boat out on the water yet, but she shifts fine while running on the hose while idling at about 1000rpm. How do I find out what ignition system I have?

 

[andrewterri]

your looking for points and a condenser or if its electronic. one way is to look on google for a picture of a points distributor and an electronic on, then see what you got. On the drive it is shifting on the hose because you do not have the back pressure on the motor from that water. It is very dangerous to use on the lake because you will not be able to overcome the pressure and can lead to an accident. Only emergency option would be to turn the key off than go into neutral.

 

[Scott06]

Building on the comment above, the alpha drive dog style engagement teeth are back cut such that when there is load on the prop from the water it will not disengage unless the load from the engine is interrupted. The switch will ground out the ignition momentarily. If the engine has a delco EST I think you need to supply 12 v momentarily.

bottom line this will work on the muffs as there is no load on the prop on water you will likely ave to turn the engine off to get it out of gear.

 

[Scott Danforth]

the 454 will tear up the Alpha drive.

 

[alldodge]

Does that apply to all Alpha drives? This looks to be an early Gen 1

Yes, all Alpha's

 

[Bondo]

Does that apply to all Alpha drives? This looks to be an early Gen 1, it says Mercruiser 233 on it but looks like an Alpha Gen 1. I haven't had a chance to take the boat out on the water yet, but she shifts fine while running on the hose while idling at about 1000rpm. How do I find out what ignition system I have?

Ayuh,..... Welcome Aboard,...... If it says 233, it's an MC-1 drive,.... commonly called a pre-alpha,....

 

[Bt Doctur]

Sure hope you didnt pay to much. Unless you replace the drive with a Bravo ,the Alpha wont last long.

 

[CLi87]

your looking for points and a condenser or if its electronic. one way is to look on google for a picture of a points distributor and an electronic on, then see what you got. On the drive it is shifting on the hose because you do not have the back pressure on the motor from that water. It is very dangerous to use on the lake because you will not be able to overcome the pressure and can lead to an accident. Only emergency option would be to turn the key off than go into neutral.

I think mine is a points distributor? Not too sure, I uploaded a pic of my setup

 

[CLi87]

the 454 will tear up the Alpha drive.

This is what I've read from all the research I've done, but I actually have the original install receipts and the motor and drive were dropped in back in 1991 and according to the previous owner everything ran fine until he let it sit outside for 4 years, the stairway drain got clogged and the center bilge pump failed, causing some low level flooding in the interior.

Perhaps the previous owners just babied the boat, from what I've read the main problem with the big blocks is the torque that will tear up the drive, but if you don't accelerate too abruptly it seems that the drive will be fine for quite some time.

 

[CLi87]

Sure hope you didnt pay to much. Unless you replace the drive with a Bravo ,the Alpha wont last long.

I got the boat WITH triple axle trailer for $700 delivered to my door =D I'm a BMW mechanic so I figured I could take on the task of fixing up the boat, I'm still fairly new to marine stuff and my only experience is with an Evinrude 150, but the 454 is pretty much the same as the truck, just have the accessories in all different places. There was a ton of rust everywhere so I replaced pretty much everything other than the engine lol, all 3 water pumps, pulleys, belts, starter, alternator, etc...and she started right up. I also took apart the alpha one and cleaned it out and replaced all the seals.

 

[alldodge]

It looks like a EST distributor, if the cap looks like this then it's EST

 

[CLi87]

Also here is a pic of my shift mechanism with the 2 wires

 

[kenny nunez]

If the drive still has the original 1.32 ratio and you use it as you said it should hold up. Hopefully the lower is of the style without the spring loaded upper bearing.
As said in previous posts you must have the shift interrupter working.

 

[Scott Danforth]

agreed, the 1.32:1 ratio drive may hold up as long as you watch the hole shot and use a rev-limiter. if the prop comes out of the water under load, then goes back in, the upper gear set will grenade.

 

[alldodge]

Also here is a pic of my shift mechanism with the 2 wires

The EST distributor has 12V applied when it goes to shift into neutral. Use the purple wire which supplies power to the coil or electric choke and connect to one side of the distributor



To set timing the distributor needs to be put into base timing mode. Disconnect switch and jumper the connections together, along with the 2 white wires on the 3 wire distributor connector. Once set, reconnect switch and remove other jumper

 

[Scott06]

The coil shown on this setup is what comes with a delco est which is what marine power puts on their carb engines

 

[CLi87]

Thanks for the diagram AllDodge! Extremely helpful, I found all the wires, but apparently I'm missing the connector going out of the distributor to the 2 WHT jumper wires and the 1 wire to the shift cutout switch, any idea where I can get a connector of this type?

 

[Scott06]

Don’t yell at me for posting another seller besides iboats - just where it came up In The search

I think u only need the one pigtail as it looks like you already have the distributor to coil harness.

https://bpi.ebasicpower.com/shop/al...-est-distributor-harness-conversion-kit-gm-v8