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The motor will handle it. At full trim it doesn't know whether it's lifting a V-hull or a 23' toon. You do need to keep an eye on the transom plate and the welds on the transom. I had to reinforce mine. Found a simple fix for it.
The reason we have to drop the motor to trim out is because our straked toons run high and flat. A bass boat runs on top too,but the bow also responds well to trim. It'll lift the nose lowering the prop. The teeter-tatter effect over the fulcrum point. Positive trim pushes down on the motor end of the teeter-tatter. Since we can't lift our heavy nose way up like a bass boat the prop rises more with trim. Bass boats also have a "rate of climb" built right into the hull. As to where tubes are straight. The rate of climb is the angle we can gain on our strakes with trim. Sure they'll pop us up on plane,but then we hit a wall with the given drag of 3-24' tubes and their strakes.
The idea is to reduce friction by lifting as much hull out of the water as possible. The further we can slide the fulcrum point back the more hull we have out of the water. This also increases the rate of climb however,which the motor has to overcome. So, it's a balancing act. How much hull can we carry out of the water with the torque and positive trim of the motor against the fulcrum and rate of climb. The further back the fulcrum the less of your ass is dragging. If that point is too far forward you have more tube on the backside trying to climb,and the motor can't over power that drag. Common sense then tells you to move heavy items in your storage to the back,and the lite stuff to the front.
Your also getting close to your max R's. Not sure when your limiter starts retarding the timing,but doubt you'll get to 50 with a 17 if your at 5900 @ 47. My motor is older so I removed my limiter and let it scream. She may let go some day,but it sure sounds happy running up there. If and when it does go I'll be looking for a 250 and 50+
