Does my trailer need adjusting?

[samander]

Hey! I just got this boat trailer combo and was wondering if anybody could tell me by looking at photos if the trailer is adjusted properly, or if there is anything that is missing or should check. I just replaced the leaf springs as I wasn't comfortable with the old ones. One thing I noticed is that there is no roller or protector for lower keel. Perhaps it is not necessary. Thanks in advance!

 

[airshot]

Need more and better pics to even consider answering your question.

 

[smokeonthewater]

looks fine to me ... I would like to see a keel roller or bumper at the rearmost end of the tongue but probably not really needed as long as you don't back in too far

 

[gm280]

From what I see thus far, it would be a great idea to install a V type center roller to help support and install the boat on without hitting the trailer. And it also looks like it needs to slide forward on the trailer so your transom straps are not touching the hull when you strap them down. So you need to determine the weight of the total trailer setup and adjust the tongue to around 10% to 15% of that weight for proper tongue weight. And that could mean sliding the boat forward or whatever it takes to make that weight range. And I can't see for certain but another V type rear roller on the very back of the trailer so the boat won't hit the trailer as it slides on if there isn't one already. And finally, you really need a transom saver or motor toter so the engine is secure and not flopping around while trailer also. When the motor is allowed to move around or up and down while moving, it puts a lot of stress on the transom and a motor toter will stop that... Make sure you service the wheel bearings and seal and check all the lights. If all that checks out good, happy trailering...

 

[samander]

Thanks for the input guys. I haven't actually launched it yet but will for sure have a better idea once I do. As for sliding forward, the issue is that the rollers would go beyond the hull if it were to move another 6 or so inches forward. Maybe a center V roller right where the tongue piece diverts to two and another on rear would be good? There aren't any at is stands

 

[smokeonthewater]

Yeah if the rollers are within a couple inches of the transom it's right

Motor 'deflopperizers' are a highly debated thing.... Many say you have to have them..... I've never felt the need for one myself

 

[dasbootwaffle]

My opinion is to look at the boat as it sets then if to move the forward most brace forward or is it welded in place. If welded then consider just how the boat and trailer would set on it's own. Is it balanced so that weight is not all forward or to the rear. You would want it so that there is weight forward so while towing the trailer does not fish-tail at speed. I would also look at how easy is the boat to launch into the water. Would adjusting the bunk runners up/down so as to help the boat come off the trailer easy or hard. There is also the thought of adjusting the wheel axle but be carefull as not to upset the balance of the boat as it towed and trailer being weight to the back. You want the weight to be forward just enough to keep the hitch point weighted in the tow bar. This is not a easy task and requires time at the launch ramp to adjust the boat to the trailer. Example is I had my boat and it would mis-aline the boat from being center/center so in the V bottom the are chines and I moved the bunk boards to aline with the chines to center the boat on loading. Spent most of a day loading and launching until al I do is wet the bunk boards and she slips into the water. Retreving the boat must be done from the water in that my boat is a cutty cabon with no access to exit the boat from the bow. I am not a drive on trailer but can get there by getting the boat to land on trailer bunks and then winch up and know that centering the boat is goina be there and exit the launch to finish the loading. I have it so one person can do this. Some times I can beat the bass boats to the trailer and clear the area be for finishing the ty-down.

 

[JimS123]

The pictures don't show what's needed to be viewed, so my answer may not be complete. Also, since the tongue weight and overall weight are not known, the axle position may or may not be correct.

Overall, the setup looks fine. If it were me I would add one extra roller on the front cross-beam to support the stem. A transom / keel roller is not necessary since this trailer is designed to be used without hardly getting the tires wet. The keel should never touch the frame.

The only thing that stands out is that the rig is attached to a vehicle and the motor is in that gaudowfull position. With that low-slung trailer a transom saver is a mandatory item.

 

[smokeonthewater]

Me personally I would just tilt the motor down to about 40-60*

Just high enough that it is in no danger of striking the ground....

Some will say the hydraulic system could fail but then my brakes are hydraulic and I bet my life on them every time I drive.

 

[samander]

No Title

Im replacing both rear roller assemblies but realized that the existing one (other is missing) was cut down to accomodate the cove type thing as seen in photo. i was wondering if it would be better to move the entire rear cross member to the more forward bolt hole, or modify the new assemblies to fit. Any suggestions?

 

[MTboatguy]

Me personally I would just tilt the motor down to about 40-60*

Just high enough that it is in no danger of striking the ground....

Some will say the hydraulic system could fail but then my brakes are hydraulic and I bet my life on them every time I drive.

I was coming down a mountain side in Afghanistan in a Humvee and had the breaks fail, to say the least, it was a wild ride.

But I am still here kicking around.

 

[smokeonthewater]

Yeah def not a good thing.... Played that game once in a pickup in Arkansas..... Ebrake, downshift, pray.......

Glad ur still with us man.