Don and Bondo my apologies

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r_snowrider

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I'm gonna have to swallow my pride here and apologize to Don and Bondo. I started a topic about getting no spark on my mercruiser, and they suggested putting new points in. I put a new coil in and the boat started but when I went to the lake it didn't run very well. So I did what they suggested and put new points in. Well the boats running a lot better now and I'm grateful for their suggestions. Once again I apologize, they do know a hell of a lot more than myself. I must say that I have become a lot more familiar with my ignition system in the past few days. And I am sure I will need the knowledge in the future. Although I think everyone needs to be a little friendlier to the newcomers, the fellow that answered my original post probably doesn't want to come back. Anyways sorry guys and thanks. Ryan
 

Don S

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Re: Don and Bondo my apologies

cheers.gif
Have a cool one, and forget about the disagreements. It happens, especially when those of us that think we know everything can't actually see, feel, and hear an engine run.<br /><br />Sure hope you set the dwell on your new points, then reset the timing...... If not, your missing out on a few escaping HP's :D
 

Dunaruna

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Re: Don and Bondo my apologies

Well done Ryan, it takes some harold paratetis to to appologise in front of 60,000 people.<br /><br />BTW, just quietly, they DO get it wrong..............sometimes ;) , but you didn't hear that from me.<br /><br /><br />Name withheld to protect the guilty. :p
 

Don S

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Re: Don and Bondo my apologies

Name withheld to protect the guilty. :p
Aldo ! is that you ?????<br />Other than those last 67 times I had a typo, when Was I ever wrong.... :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: <br /><br /> :p
 

r_snowrider

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Re: Don and Bondo my apologies

I set my point gap to .022 as the sticker on the engine says. But how exactly do I set the timing? Just another thing to learn I guess. Would it be the position of the distributor shaft? The only thing I know about engines is what I learned in Auto 1 in 10th grade, and most of that has been forgotten. But I am fairly familiar with dc current itself, so I understand current, volts, and all that stuff. But I am definately gonna need the extra hp for my girlfriend to haul my lazy arse around on the tube. Damn I love tubin'. We like to but 2 tubes in the water and have to guys battle to knock the other off, it gets pretty bloody and competitive. Thanks guys
 

Don S

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Re: Don and Bondo my apologies

Setting the gap is only used to get close on the point settings. You need a dwell meter, a timing light, and a service manual for your engine. Without them, you will be spending weeks here trying to cure things that aren't the problem.
 

r_snowrider

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Re: Don and Bondo my apologies

Are you speakin greek. That's way over my head. Guess I'm gonna have to take it to the shop. Thanks Don
 

r_snowrider

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Re: Don and Bondo my apologies

Harold Paratetis? Sounds like an std their Dunaruna. Once again that just shows my low vocabulary
 

Dunaruna

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Re: Don and Bondo my apologies

Setting the 'dwell' is simply adjusting the points by using an electrical meter - called a 'dwell meter'. It is much more accurate than using feeler guages. <br /><br />The timing is simply creating the spark for the spark plugs at exactly the correct time - timing!<br /><br />Adjusting or replacing the points will cause the timing to become wrong (it also happens as the point wear down), so you will need to adjust it by using a timing light.<br /><br />Get a manual.<br /><br />Get a dwell meter.<br /><br />Get a timing light. <br /><br />The manual will explain how to use your new toys :) .<br /><br />It's not hard to do if you take it slow and do one step at a time.<br /><br />And one last thing, unless you have heart palpetations, don't hold on to the coil wire - big baddaboom :eek: <br /><br />Harold Paratestis.
 

r_snowrider

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Re: Don and Bondo my apologies

I knew what the timing was as far as what it means. I just wasn't sure how to adjust it. But now that makes a lot more sense to me now that you say it, so I take it that the point distance controls the timing because the further the points are the longer they will take to connect, thus effecting the timing. These are such great things to know. I just didn't know that had to be so precise. So I take when your points wear down over time (which I'm not sure if they do that, maybe they just get carbon buildup) it affects your timing? These are all important things for us beginners to know. Do you think that dirty points may be the reason for my boat cutting out on the water every once in a while? Thanks very much fellas
 

r_snowrider

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Re: Don and Bondo my apologies

Also one last question. When I was installing the new points I got a shock. I figured that the current wouldn't come through to that point until you try to start the boat. The boats keys were in the on position but the boat was not on. I don't know if I have a problem or that's normal. It seems like if you left the keys in the "on" position, and the points were connected, that the system would burn up. Or does the coil only release a single charge, and then the connection has to be broken before it will release another charge? Just trying to get it figured out.
 

Dunaruna

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Re: Don and Bondo my apologies

Yes,yes and yes.<br /><br />leaving the key 'on' will fry the coil (over time) and points/condenser. Bad idea. <br /><br />The rubbing block on the points wear down causing the gap to diminish, the points get arc pits causing the gap to diminish. Dirty, rough & pitted points cause a weak spark. Not cleaning the protective coating off new points cause a weak or non existent spark. All of the above affects the timing and the duration/strengh of the spark. It sound complicated, but it ain't.<br /><br />The reason that it has to be so precise is that everything happens at up to 5000rpm - on a 4 cylinder, that's a spark (and a BOOM!) every...........my calculator doesn't have enough decimal points :( <br /><br />Edit: Where/which wire did you get a shock from?<br /><br />Aldo
 

r_snowrider

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Re: Don and Bondo my apologies

That makes a hell of a lot of sense. How should I clean the protective coating off the new points? Perhaps a very fine grit sand paper? I'll be back in an hour, so leave me any information you feel necessary and I'll get it then. And man did it ever get me, pazzowwwww didn't expect that. Thanks Dunaruna.<br /><br />I got a shock from right near the points when I was gapping them.
 

Dunaruna

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Re: Don and Bondo my apologies

Many years ago, if a car broke down on the side of the road, we would remove the points and 'clean' them on a rock or brick or whatever was handy but you don't need to do that. A piece of cardboard (the box that the points came in) soaked in carby cleaner or brake cleaner - something that evaporates and doesn't leave a residue. A dob of grease on the rubbing block, check the balance shaft is springing back - you're good to go.<br /><br />Aldo
 

r_snowrider

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Re: Don and Bondo my apologies

I just read your profile and it says your a brake mechanic. I don't know exactly what type of brakes you work on, but my work trucks right front brake started sounding real rough and I have brake dust all over the rim of that tire, so I'm sure I need new pads. But I think I might also need a rotor now too. Does it sound just like a case of worn pads or does the dust on the rim indicate a larger problem. What's the cost there for new brakes, and probably a single new rotor. Thanks for your time buddy, your really helping me out
 

Dunaruna

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Re: Don and Bondo my apologies

What you need is a 'Fix Mechanic'. I just break things, especially boat motors ;) . <br /><br />Ryan, honestly, how can I know what's up with your brakes? It COULD be - pads worn out (metal to metal), bearings collaped causing the rotor to go - wobble, wobble, wobble, loose caliper bolts................<br /><br />Pull the wheels off and have a looksee, post a pic if you like.<br /><br />Brake dust is something that people need to get used to. Since blue asbestos went the way of the dinosaur, pad manufacturers have been trying to invent the dustless brake pad, with little success. As the pads wears, the dust has to go somewhere. I tell my customers - wash the rims more often. It is much more pronounced with shiny open mag wheels. It's actually a good sign, the brakes are producing friction which in turn is stopping the vehicle. <br /><br />Don't write off the discs unless they are undersize or the grooves are deep, a few minor grooves aren't going to effect the braking performance. <br /><br />How much??? The big question. I'm in Australia, any estimates I give you won't apply in Utah. <br /><br />Aldo
 

r_snowrider

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Re: Don and Bondo my apologies

Very true my good man. I don't know why I asked for a price. I don't know why that didn't cross my mind. I'll be taking it in tomorrow. Just needed a few tips for when I go get them done, so they don't take my dumb arse for a ride. Thanks again
 

Bondo

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Re: Don and Bondo my apologies

Originally posted by Fishermark:<br />
apologize to Don and Bondo
Hey! What about me? I suggested the points first!<br /> :p :cool: :D
Ayuh,.................. ;) <br /><br />No Apologies Needed Here,.........<br /><br />That Whole Thread was All about,.. 1/2 the members of the forum Trying to tell You to Listen/Read what You were Told Needed Doing,.. in the 1st Reply,........ Fishermark's................ :D <br /><br />It took 30 Posts for You to find the Answer in the Very 1st Reply.....................<br /><br />Good Luck,....<br />Have Fun,.......<br />Be Safe........... ;)
 

Wotknot

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Re: Don and Bondo my apologies

Just another prime example why four-thirds of the world's population has trouble with fractions.....we hear but we just won't listen... :)
 
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