Don't want the block to freeze but don't want to winterize either

jayhanig

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Jun 27, 2010
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Looking at the forecast for the next several days I see where it is supposedly going to drop down to or near freezing on a couple of nights, then warm up again. The weather right now is still pretty and I really don't want to put the boat up for the season just yet. I know there will be many days of warm weather before the cold weather sets in with a vengeance.

I religiously flush my 3 liter GM Mercruiser engine with Salt Terminator after every use (I live on the NC coast and park my boat on its trailer with the bow high and the outdrive as low as the driveway allows me to get it. Would it be acceptable to just drain the block and the riser until I'm really ready to winterize, maybe in about 3 weeks?

I assume there is a single drain for each (the block and the riser). Am I wrong?

I probably should already know these things but I've let my repair guy handle this in the past for me... and I've missed out on a lot of good boating days because I already had the boat winterized.

Your thoughts?
 

chrisf695

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Sep 6, 2011
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Re: Don't want the block to freeze but don't want to winterize either

Thats what I did last night, I just drained the block and the manifolds and some of the hoses. Also, I plan on just putting a 100watt light blub under the motor. All is good!
 

agallant80

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Oct 25, 2010
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Re: Don't want the block to freeze but don't want to winterize either

I live in raleigh. It really does not get cold enough down here to freeze our boats like other places. You can just drain and be fine.
 

Chris1956

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Mar 25, 2004
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Re: Don't want the block to freeze but don't want to winterize either

I wired a 40W heating pad under the oil pan of my MerCruiser. That kept the oil warm as well. I never drained my motor, but I kept it in the water, which didn't freeze.

Since the boat is on a trailer, I recommend you drain the block and manifold. There should be one plug on each, on an inline motor.
 

jayhanig

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Re: Don't want the block to freeze but don't want to winterize either

I went ahead and drained the two convenience hoses which go to the manifold and block drains this afternoon. Do I need to worry about water not draining out of the thermostat housing since the thermostat is closed?
 

bruceb58

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Re: Don't want the block to freeze but don't want to winterize either

I would use something other than a light bulb that might happen to burn out.
 

bruceb58

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Re: Don't want the block to freeze but don't want to winterize either

Do I need to worry about water not draining out of the thermostat housing since the thermostat is closed?
You are good. Don't forget power steering cooler if so equipped.
 

airshot

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Re: Don't want the block to freeze but don't want to winterize either

I have two light bulb holders with the alum round shields on them, each has a 100 watt bulb and one is placed on each side of the engine under the doghouse. One would be enough but with two I have some margin of safety in case one bulb burns out. I also use the rough service bulbs as they tend to take more abuse and last much longer than normal bulbs, especially outdoors.
 

bruceb58

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Re: Don't want the block to freeze but don't want to winterize either

They make reptile heaters that screw into a regular light socket. Way better than a light bulb.
 

Home Cookin'

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Re: Don't want the block to freeze but don't want to winterize either

Although I'm not an i/o guy, I can't see how one night's dip to 30 at some point in the night is going toget the inside of a motor to 30*. We're having a similar system here now but daytime temps in the 50's or more, night to 28-30 maybe. Wind is a factor, too. but generally a contained area is 10* warmer than outside air. And moreoverm, a light bulb will be all you'd need for insurance, even if it did burn out half-way through the night.
 

smokeonthewater

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Re: Don't want the block to freeze but don't want to winterize either

or put the boat in a closed garage if available....
 

Silvertip

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Re: Don't want the block to freeze but don't want to winterize either

Here's a thought. Up here in the tundra many auto engines are fitted with block heaters that install in one of the core plug holes. These heaters are available at any auto store, are easy to install and are reliable. Plug it in and let the principle of thermo-siphoning take over with the circulation chores. I haven't tried this but see no reason why it wouldn't be a viable option for those marginal freeze situations. Wouldn't make sense to use it for long term storage.
 

agallant80

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Re: Don't want the block to freeze but don't want to winterize either

Here's a thought. Up here in the tundra many auto engines are fitted with block heaters that install in one of the core plug holes. These heaters are available at any auto store, are easy to install and are reliable. Plug it in and let the principle of thermo-siphoning take over with the circulation chores. I haven't tried this but see no reason why it wouldn't be a viable option for those marginal freeze situations. Wouldn't make sense to use it for long term storage.

I don';t know if one of those block hearers will work without coolent being in the motor to transmit the hear.
 

ricohman

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Re: Don't want the block to freeze but don't want to winterize either

I have no advice, but I am jealous that it's so warm where you live.
It was -22 again this morning....
 

DBreskin

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Oct 20, 2009
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Re: Don't want the block to freeze but don't want to winterize either

You may also want to make sure your drive is drained as well. Since the drive is outside the boat, it will freeze sooner than the block.

After I drain my block I kick the engine over one turn to expel the water from the impeller housing. My Cobra drive also has three drain plugs in the side of the drive to let the water out.
 

oldjeep

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May 17, 2010
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Re: Don't want the block to freeze but don't want to winterize either

I don';t know if one of those block hearers will work without coolent being in the motor to transmit the hear.

Yup - no way a block heater would do anything but burn itself out. If you wanted to use automotive technology you would need a dipstick heater or magnetic pan heater and let the oil keep the block warm.
 
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Bayou Dave

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Dec 13, 2012
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Re: Don't want the block to freeze but don't want to winterize either

I live up the road from you. All I did was drain the manifolds, drain the block, pull all the hoses off the thermostat housing, pulled the big hose off the water pump and put my outdrive all the way down. It will only take me 10-15 minutes to put it all back together.
 

888

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Re: Don't want the block to freeze but don't want to winterize either

just drain it....air doesn't freeze.
 

skydiveD30571

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Re: Don't want the block to freeze but don't want to winterize either

Although I'm not an i/o guy, I can't see how one night's dip to 30 at some point in the night is going toget the inside of a motor to 30*. We're having a similar system here now but daytime temps in the 50's or more, night to 28-30 maybe. Wind is a factor, too. but generally a contained area is 10* warmer than outside air. And moreoverm, a light bulb will be all you'd need for insurance, even if it did burn out half-way through the night.

You are correct, it take a decent amount of time below freezing to bring the inside of an engine (inside an engine bay) to freezing temps. If it was only a couple hours I wouldn't worry. All night several degrees below freezing?...best to be precautionary.

Also I'm not sure what you meant by wind being a factor, because wind is no factor for an engine.
 
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