double-walled hull, new floor

[salty87]

i haven't seen this question asked before...what to do about replacing floor with double-walled hull?

i doubt i'm using the correct term so by double-walled what i mean is that the top cap has interior walls that connect with floor leaving a void between inner and outer hull walls. this boat is 23' and i don't have the room, equipment, or cajones to try to split the top off. can i cut out the old floor, leaving about an inch from the inner hull wall, and lay the new floor on top of the inch of old floor? i don't really have any room to tab the new to the old this way without messing up interior trim along with the fit of seat bases.

i might be hosed when i get into the stringers anyway. the open bow is part of the top half. if the stringers up front are toast, not sure what i'll do.

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: double-walled hull, new floor

you are better off removing the cap. most bowriders the floor, consoles, splash well are all part of the cap.

 

[salty87]

Re: double-walled hull, new floor

i'm sure it would be better to remove but i'd also have to worry about the hull flexing and warping. i honestly give myself about a 10% chance of getting it done that way. i don't even have a garage to use for this project.

what kind of problems will i have with the finished product if i don't split it?

 

[sdunt]

Re: double-walled hull, new floor

i don't even have a garage to use for this project.

what kind of problems will i have with the finished product if i don't split it?

Several people have done work outside under a plastic tent. So the garage is not mandatory, so long as the temperate holds out.

If you don't split it, a more difficult and potentially incomplete rebuild. Having to try and dig a rotted stringer out from under the bow section and then shove a replacement up under there is problematic. But it can be useable for a number of years.

As for the tabbing in.. I would not put the new floor on top of the lip you leave. If it fits, I would screw blocking to the underside of the tab and then set the new floor on the block, screw it in and then glass everything back into place.

Keep in mind, regular generic yellow wood glue will create a bond that is stronger than the wood itself. So if you are using PL type or 3M 5200 type adhesives, or epoxies, that blocking joint will be stronger than the plywood floor itself.

There are always trade offs. If wood doesn't work, consider aluminum or stainless. IF that doesn't work consider plastic and composites, star board, etc.

My usual reading list:

Runabout Renovation: How to Find and Fix Up an Old Fiberglass Speedboat by Jim Anderson
http://www.amazon.com/Runabout-Reno...0255336?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1176991542&sr=8-1

The Fiberglass Boat Repair Manual by Allan H. Viatses
http://www.amazon.com/Fiberglass-Bo...0255336?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1176991609&sr=1-2

Fiberglass Repair and Construction Handbook Author: Jack Wiley
http://www.amazon.com/Fiberglass-Re...9355330?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1180026258&sr=1-1

Boat Repair and Restoration Articles @ West System
http://www.westsystem.com/ewmag/proj_repair.html

These may also give you some ideas.

Read my project blog in my signature, read others projects there as well.

 

[BillP]

Re: double-walled hull, new floor

This is not unusual at all, pro glass shops do it all the time without taking decks off (or when doing transoms too). Cut the old floor out around the edge at an angle that will let the new floor rest on and be flush with the old one. If the edge is totally rotted the job is harder but usually the edges are have enough good wood and may only require a small patch or two. Leave the edge wide enough to give room for a wood cleat on the underside...can be a 1"x4" etc. Epoxy will hold butt joints as strong as the wood without cleats but you have to be sure it's a good glue job. Otherwise, glue the cleat under the old edge to help hold the new floor...do it around the entire edge. When gluing the cleat be sure to wipe it off the surface where the new floor will sit. If you don't it will keep the floor from sitting flush. Use clamps to hold the cleat while the epoxy cures. Cut and fit the new wood, then set in epoxy or 3M 5200 and screw down with deep countersinks. Wipe clean while fresh to give a smooth surface. Fill the countersinks later. Glass or whatever you are finishing with.

bp

 

[salty87]

Re: double-walled hull, new floor

thanks for the replies. i've done some reading on other threads and already copied your list of references, sdunt. nice list btw.

i was hoping you guys would reply (tashasdaddy too), seems like you've all done this a few times. if i had a suitable workspace including storage of the top, i'd pop that sucker off and get after it. i also have a non-folding wakeboard tower on it to take up more room. i'd hang it from a ceiling if i could.

engine should be coming out this weekend, unless the skies open up some more.

 

[klassic]

Re: double-walled hull, new floor

Salty,

I beleive I have the same situation with my boat. Do you have any pics of your project?

 

[salty87]

Re: double-walled hull, new floor

klassic- the only pics i have are before's. i'm still in the tear-down phase. i've run into a few hurdles getting the engine pulled, a funeral, some rain...the usual stuff.

there's not much to see of the double-wall except if you look through the empty speaker holes you can see the inside of the outter hull wall. there's a space between the 2, about 2-3 inches at floor level.