Dreaded Mercruiser Sea Water Pump Issues

Don Disalvo

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Jun 18, 2020
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6
I have a 2010 Sea Ray 250SLX with 496 Mag (base) DTS B3 Engine Serial 1A350455. Total hours 170. Sea Water Pump part number 862914T12. Boat is stored on a boat lift in the summer over salt water. Stored in non heated garage with multiple moisture packs.

I purchased it in 2018 with 120 hours. I was given full maintenance records which included sea water pump impeller change at 106 hours.

After launching the boat a couple of weeks ago, I had the Guardian system kick in at WOT (4900rpm) after about 5-7 seconds. Not too specific of a warning message but just remember "if persists take it to the dealer". Engine was not overheating, 170, oil pressure good, everything checked out so I continue at cruise speed and everything feels normal. Bring it back to WOT and indeed Guardian to the rescue. This time I had set the smartcraft gauge to show water pressure and at WOT I only saw 5psi. I quickly came to the realization that my impeller was shot. No biggy, just a little surprised that the new impeller only lasted 64 hours but summarized it must be from the salt water versus fresh water where my boat previous owner boated on.

Searched the forum and felt confident that it was a doable project although I knew it was going to be a PITA. Your forum is a great resource so I have to thank all you guys who have nothing better to do than to help out other boaters like me.

Removed the pump and I realized that it was the original impeller. I felt like a tool. Note to all new boat owners. If you ever buy a used boat, SERVICE the boat and change all critical parts including the impeller. Gives you a guaranteed starting point and takes the guess work out of diagnosing problems that will happen.

The removal: I love the quick connect feature on the inlet hose. I hate the location of the cool fuel system, still scratching my head as to why they made servicing the boat so difficult. The pump end plate looked to be in excellent condition. I was surprised how easily I was able to slap the new impeller in. I use a good water based personal lubricant that my wife loves, so I though it would make my boat happy too! I got it back together and was not able to reconnect the gray plastic air hose. I guess the fitting was broken or I broke it upon removing it. I didn't think it would make much of a difference so I decided to start the boat and see what happens. Everything looked good, got decent water psi at idle. At sea trial at WOT and Captains choice exhaust closed, I had no issues and Guardian stayed quiet. Happy I decided to open the Exhaust and at WOT and Guardian system activates. I noticed that with exhaust closed I got around 5 psi and 4.8 with exhaust open. I return back to my slip and mentally conclude that air must be cavitating the impeller through the air fitting that was not able to be connected.

I just finishing installing the 2 new air fittings and got my pump back together. I start the engine and everything looks good. It's late and super choppy and and decide to sea trial tomorrow. I check to make sure that the air drain system is working correctly and notice that the port side drains nicely and has green indicator come out, but the starboard ( sea pump) side feels like it's blocked and does not drain the pump. The green indicator does not extend like the port side.

Is it possible that I reversed the 2 lines? Anyone have any other suggestions as to how I screwed this one up?

The boat has never let me down before and I would easily be able to hit WOT with both closed and open exhaust without any issues. With a new impeller I thought for sure I should get over 10psi at WOT, but now I am second guessing a few things.

I will see how the sea trial goes tomorrow and report back, but my instinct is telling me that my situation is far from over...
 

alldodge

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new impeller only lasted 64 hours

Impeller replacement is based on calendar time and not hours. The impeller type in your motor should be replaced every other season, and is best at the beginning. Some let them go for 3 seasons but that would be max

Its nice to get records when a boat is purchased, but that just tells maybe how it was taken care of. When it becomes yours it should be looked at as though nothing has been done. Should also change fluids and filters, pull drive, check alignment and bellows

Water pressure around 3500 rpm should see at least 20 psi. The drain air fittings may be allowing air in. The water pump housing may also need a better look.

there any wear seen inside on the pump ends?

Get a piece of clear hose from the hardware store with barbed fittings. Place the hose after the seawater pump. This will provide a visual if air is getting in
 

Don Disalvo

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Jun 18, 2020
Messages
6
Good idea regarding adding a clear hose to see if air is entering the system. I still haven't had a chance to sea trial the boat but am wondering why is the air pump not able to purge the water out of the sea water pump. Anyone have an idea?
 

alldodge

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Doesn't have to do with purging air out of the pump, the issue is if air is being sucked in and therefore the motor is not getting enough water
 

Don Disalvo

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Jun 18, 2020
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6
Understood. I'm just trying to figure out all the possible reasons for air being allowed to enter. The fact that I can't pump air into the pump has be thinking that there maybe a piston seized or unable to move, possibly allowing air in through the long house at the end of the pump? I assumed that this hose is where the water is pushed out of the pump? It's number 9 on the drawing. Currently it's just sitting in the bilge. 862914T12.jpg
 

alldodge

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The bleed valves can allow air in, but so can anything from the drive to the pump. Hose, clamps, fittings
 

Don Disalvo

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Jun 18, 2020
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Does anyone have any pictures of the internals. I was able to find a thread that talks about similar issues that I may be having. I know there are many possible scenarios where air is able to get into the system, but since the air pump is not able to budge the piston in the sea pump, I have to rule out that the piston is in a stuck position letting air get in.

Here is the link to the thread that I am referring to: https://forums.iboats.com/forum/eng...out-mercruiser-496-mag-water-pressure-problem

A picture of the piston is also enclosed. Thanks to MI_Pirate

I'm pretty sure that other people are going to be in the same position as I am. There would be so many reasons for the piston to get stuck in place. If all it takes is to replace some o rings, then it's a worthwhile endeavour.
 

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Don Disalvo

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Jun 18, 2020
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Ok went on a sea trial yesterday and no surprised but I was only able to get 4.4 psi @3500rpm 5.4 psi @4000 and 6psi at 4500rpm. At WOT I had maybe 6psi at 4900 rpm and if I opened up exhaust it dropped to 5.4 and Guardian to the rescue. I am going to remove the pump and take it apart again.

Possible scenarios :
1. There is some scoring on the end plates that I didn't notice the first time.
2. Wrong impeller? Now I am second guessing everything
3. air drain system in the pump is not working correctly. Either try to fix operation by replacing o rings in the piston assembly or buying new back half of the pump.
4. water pressure sensor malfunctioning - I doubt it but it's possible. I have taken it out and it was clean as a whistle and had the black body which is the newer style so I suspect it's okay.
5. Bravoitis? possibility but with this low of hours I don't think so
6. Growth in the leg preventing good water flow? possible but I still think it's cavitation due to air getting into the system somehow.

Hopefully my pain will help out others.
 

alldodge

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There are 2 different impellers that are similar, older pumps use 47-59362T1 and your Gen 7 use 47-8M0104229
 

Don Disalvo

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Jun 18, 2020
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I can confirm that I used a Sierra 18-3016-1 impeller kit which I believe is the same as the 47-8M0104229.
 
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