Drive shaft pops up during Lower Unit Pressure Test 1985 6hp E6RCOB.

[cprodave]

Due to a broken skeg (which occurred before I bought this outboard) I am thinking of replacing the Gearcase Housing Assembly. There seems to be slight milkish Gear Oil and some water after running with new gear oil in a tank for a just few minutes (to check the Thermostat/PeeStream). It is possible I had a bad gasket on the upper Drain Screw, or I suspected bad seals around the Prop Shaft. So using my redneck Pressure Test setup (small air compressor and tube/fitting robbed from a gear oil pump) I pressurized in a bucket of water and see no leaks whatsoever around Prop Shaft or anywhere else. However I did notice that the drive shaft pops up about 1/2 inch when I apply pressure (about 15psi), then when I release pressure the drive shaft returns unassisted to Down position.

Is this normal for the drive shaft, or does this up/down Driveshaft movement indicate something is wrong (that could the root cause for water in the Gear Oil)?

Also, exploded diagrams I see call for Gearcase Housing Assembly 397701. Will a Gearcase Housing 336298 work instead? Seller indicates Bearing 386071 will need replaced. Is there any reason I can't use my existing Bearing 386071 (for example, it could be difficult to non-destructively remove the Bearing)?

thanks for input...

 

[racerone]

Normal for the driveshaft to pop up during a test.-----Where did the 336298 part # come from ?

 

[F_R]

Have you considered a trip to a welder to fix the skeg?

 

[Vic.S]

Part number 397701 is not correct for E6RCOB

It should be 0396199

 

[cprodave]

Racerone, thanks for advising that popup is normal (I subsequently measured at 1/4inch vs. previous eyeballed at 1/2inch). Seller indicates that 336298 came from 1991 4hp J4RDHEIA.

F_R: yes I considered welding on a new skeg. Local mechanic charges $60 per weld. I can get this 336298 for $45 local pickup. I didn't mention earlier but there was/is a small crack (engine stored during freezing conditions with slight water in Gearcase?) that I have patched using thorough clean (acetone) blow dry, waited a day, super glue (capillary action sucked the glue in), roughed up surface, JB weld then covered with duct tape. Pretty redneck but so far it passed Pressure Test. However, my confidence in this patch holding up indefinitely (or at least a couple years) is not 100%. Therefore I am considering replacement of the Gearcase Housing. So if I get a skeg weld and weld the crack/patch (after thorough cleaning of the JB Weld/SuperGlue that would be $120 vs. $45.

Vic: "right or wrong" (as an iboats forum User) I usually look up exploded diagrams on marineengine.com. For E6RCOB marineengine.com shows that 397701 replaced 396199. Also marineengine.com shows the sole p/n for J4RDHEIA is 397701.

I don't want to run this outboard with no Skeg or an aftermarket LowerUnit protector (these seemed to be more popular in 1970's 1980's) because outboard will be used amongst many oyster beds and/or a river that has quite a few rocks.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Proper pressure test should be between 7 to 12 psi.

Higher pressure has the habit of making a slightly damaged seal appear to be okay. (Forces a sealing action)

 

[cprodave]

Joe, thanks for detail on correct test pressure. I will add a pressure gauge to my redneck tester.

Vic, I found a reasonably priced 396199 that may be the best solution. Thanks!