sparkroost
Petty Officer 1st Class
- Joined
- Mar 23, 2003
- Messages
- 312
I have been trying to get some assistance on the proper shimming of the lower unit.<br /><br />YEa, get the tool.. easy said.<br /><br />I have read alot of posts on this topic. Which if read and done will cause the gearcase to fail! I don't believe the shimming is to create as little end play in the shaft, this is what most concieve as the proper way.<br /> The shaft has the ability to drop down until the taper in the shaft hits the housing. There is no way from stopping the shaft from dropping. The bevel gears are applying force to the pinion gear that forces the shaft upwards into position to mesh with the gears properly. If you have the wrong shim, too tight of shims will keep the gear too low. Too little shim will move the shaft upwards out of range for proper contact. If you happen to add to much grease to the drive shaft splines and insert into motor, this will cause a "hydraulic" effect and pre-load the shaft. This obviously is no good because it will force the pinion gear down and not allow it to move up into position.<br /><br />My question is...the average person able to pull upwards on the shaft to simulate the bevel gear applying pressure to te shaft and turn for "feel" of proper gear mesh?<br /><br />If I am out of bounds on this one please feel free to post your thoughts.<br /><br />2nd question:<br /><br />The center moving dog's. Some are spiral cut(tapered dogs) and others are just straight cut. My particular unit has straight cut dogs. There is a 30deg. taper on the fwd gear to help it slip out of gear if the dogs are mis-aligned the first time it tries to engauge. This is from a 1973 hydro-mechanical. Would it be better to use a spiral or tapered dogs vs. the straight cut?