Electric fuel pump and oil pressure switch

karayj

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 4, 2002
Messages
472
89 3.7 4cyl Merc 2bbl

So because of vapor lock issues I've been having I'm planning on switching over to a small electric fuel pump and an oil pressure switch that turns the pump on and off from what I've been told this is necessary. My plan is to purchase one of those small electric fuel pumps online i think Operation Pressure: 2.5-4.5 psi
Operation Flow: 30 Gallons Per Hour
Hose Size: 5/16" They are $15 the other Plan is to purchase a SIERRA OIL PRESSURE SAFETY SHUT OFF SWITCH, #18-7253 which would shut it off on the engine is not running.

My question is does anybody know what the thread size for my engine is for the oil pressure switch and are the switches rated for different amounts of pressure. The other question is what is the fuel pressure
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
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Messages
51,331
you dont have vapor lock, it doesnt exist on boats

you may have fuel system issues. those are common on boats, however vapor lock isnt one of them

most likely (since you dont state your problem)

plugged Anti-siphon valve
damaged anti-siphon valve
water in fuel
bad fuel in tank
plugged carburetor

also highly probable on your motor

blown head gasket
leaking water pump seal
points out of adjustment.

if you buy an electric fuel pump, you will have spent over $130 for a marine fuel pump, relay and oil pressure switch (compared to $49 for a perfectly good mechanical fuel pump) and since I can guarantee you dont have vapor lock, you will still have the same issues you have now.

so, how about helping us help you

what are the symptoms you have?
 

karayj

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 4, 2002
Messages
472
When i run the boat for 15 min stop it restarts fine. If I run the boat for 30 -45 min up and down the lake and head to the dock it is fine . If I turn off the boat after running 30 to 45 min and try to restart it immediate and when it finally does after 5 attempts it will not stay idle.. once I put it in drive it shuts off and on restart is feel like it is running of 3 cly or flooded.
If its the fuel pump I have no problem getting a new one . The head gasket was changed 2 months ago.

Replace Anti-siphon valve.. happens on both carbs that I have / fuel tank complete drained last week /point and timing
redone / if I let the boat cool off for 45 min it starts and idles fine

I have read a tech sheet created by merc that my symptoms are vapor lock..... I will paste the article here.



Gasoline Engine Vapor Locking Models


All Mercury MerCruiser 4 Cylinder, V6 and V8 engines.

Situation


Under certain conditions, engines may experience a ‘vapor lock’ condition. The three most common complaints that vapor locking cause are:
  1. The engine starts. When the throttle is advanced, the engine quits running and will not restart.
  2. If the engine does restart, it quits when advancing the throttle to get the boat up on plane or to pull up a water skier.
  3. After running the boat and shutting the engine off for 1 to 3 hours, the engine does not want to restart.
Conditions That Affect Vapor Locking


Fuels containing alcohol and ‘winter grade’ fuels will cause vapor locking complaints to increase.

NOTE: The new ‘Reformulated’ fuels have the RVP (Reid Vapor Pressure) very carefully controlled.

It will normally take several following conditions to make an engine ‘vapor lock’. These conditions include but are not limited to:
  1. Type, formulation and RVP of the gasoline in the boat’s fuel tank or sold in the area. ‘Winter grade’ fuels sold from October through March in most areas have the highest RVP.
  2. Engine compartment air temperature and its ventilation system.
  3. Temperature and vacuum on the fuel that is being delivered to the engine.
  4. The location of the fuel tank.
  5. The boat’s fuel supply system. This includes Inside Diameter (ID) of fuel line and fittings, fuel line length, routing, bends or kinks and the clamps that secure it. Extra fuel filters, fuel manifolds, anti-siphon valves, shut off valves, tank selector valves and the number of 90 degree fittings used.
  6. Engine coolant temperature.
  7. How quickly the engine is shut off after running at cruising or higher rpms and how long the engine and engine compartment are allowed to cool off after use.
  8. The outside air temperature on the day the boat is being operated.
Corrections That Can Be Done To Help Minimize Vapor Locking


Before looking at the customer’s problem as a vapor locking condition, make sure something else is not causing the running problem.

Air leak in the engine or boat fuel system. Check the tightness of all fuel fittings and clamps. Check for a cracked housing where a brass fuel fitting is threaded in it.

IMPORTANT: Do not pressurize the boat’s fuel tank(s) in this test.

Disconnect the fuel line from fuel tank(s). Pressurize the fuel system that goes to the engine to 8 psi (55 kPa) with a hand pump to see if it holds this pressure. Often systems will leak air but not fuel. Always use a wrench to hold a brass fitting that is threaded into an aluminum casting when tightening another fitting threaded into it to prevent the casting from cracking.

Check the complete fuel supply system of the boat for a fuel restriction. Include the brass fitting threaded into the engine’s inlet in this test. Use a portable outboard fuel tank connected directly to the engine’s fuel inlet fitting as a quick way to test the system.

If these more common problems are not causing the complaint, then continue.

Follow instructions below:

a. Find out what type of fuel is in the boat’s fuel tank. Fuels containing alcohol are more likely to vapor lock on hot days.

b. Find out what the RVP of the fuel in the boat’s fuel tank is. 11 to 15 RVP (cool to cold weather) fuel will change from liquid to a vapor at lower fuel temperature than 8 to 10 RVP (warm to hot weather) fuel will. Refilling the boat’s fuel tank with lower RVP fuel will decrease the chance of vapor locking. Fuels purchased in most areas of the USA from late September through early April will cause most of the problems.
Follow instructions below:



a. Over the last several years, engine compartments have been designed to be quieter. This is done by using an insulation material and by making ‘engine covers’ tighter. This can cause high air temperature inside the engine compartment while the engine is operating and for a period of time after it is shut off. This period of time is called the ‘heat soak’ time. The air temperature inside the engine compartment during a ‘heat soak’ will rise higher than during the engine’s ‘running time’. This is because there is no air movement inside the compartment and no coolant flow through the engine. Normally, the quieter the engine compartment is, the hotter the air temperature will be on the inside during the ‘heat soak’. The highest air temperatures during a ‘heat soak’ will occur 30-40 minutes after the engine is shut off and can stay at that peak for up to 1-1/2 hours. This greatly increases the chances of vapor locking.

b. Mercury MerCruiser engine compartment air temperature specification that became effective January 1, 1996 is:

Under the hottest outside air temperature condition that the boat will be operated in, the maximum air temperature inside the engine compartment, measured at the flame arrestor, shall not exceed 176[SUP]o[/SUP] F (80[SUP]o[/SUP] C).

c. Increasing engine compartment ventilation to move the hot air out of it during a ‘heat soak’ will decrease vapor locking. Other items that can help reduce vapor locking are:

Letting an engine idle for 3-5 minutes before shutting it off.

Open the engine cover to let the hot air escape.

Operate the bilge blower to remove the hot air.

3. Follow instructions below:

a. Fuel temperature (at the engine’s fuel inlet fitting) and the amount of vacuum required by the fuel pump to draw the fuel from the boat’s fuel tank can contribute to vapor locking.

Mercury MerCruiser’s maximum engine fuel temperature specification that became effective January 1, 1996 is:

Under the hottest outside air temperature condition that the boat will be operated in, the temperature of the fuel being supplied to the engine shall not exceed 110[SUP]o[/SUP] F (43[SUP]o[/SUP] C) at any location between the fuel tank and the engine’s fuel pump.

Mercury MerCruiser’s specification for the maximum vacuum measured at the fuel inlet of any MerCruiser engine is:

2 in. Hg (7 kPa) maximum at idle rpm, 3000, full throttle and back at idle rpm.

Use an accurate digital vacuum gauge that reads in either in. Hg (inches of mercury) or (kPa) to check this specification. Common vacuum gauges to check an engine intake manifold vacuum are not accurate enough to make this type of measurement.

b. Reducing the temperature and maximum vacuum of the fuel being supplied to the engine will help reduce vapor locking problems.


NOTE: Carbureted and EFI/MPI with VST models only: The Water Separating Fuel Filter can be removed from the engine to a lower, cooler location. Use a Coast Guard approved fuel line between the filter and the fuel pump.

4. Check to see if the fuel tank is in an area where engine compartment heat or sun can preheat the fuel that is in the fuel tank. Putting insulation between the fuel tank and the heat source can help keep the fuel cooler.

5. Follow instructions below: a. The fuel supply system can be a major cause of vapor locking. Remove all kinks in any of the fuel lines. Move the fuel line to be as close to the bottom of the boat as possible to keep it in the coolest area of the engine compartment. Replace clamps used to support the fuel line with larger clamps if the fuel line is being pinched or constricted with the current clamp. b. Reduce the total length of the fuel line to be as short as possible. Eliminate or reduce the number of 90 degree fittings used in the system to no more than 2. c. Any anti-siphon valve or restriction that causes a higher than specified vacuum reading can contribute to vapor locking and other driveability problems. If the vacuum reading is too high, try a less restrictive anti-siphon valve or the Electric Anti-Siphon Valve Kit.
NOTE: An engine that has a vapor locking condition may show a very low vacuum reading. This could be a false reading because vapor can give a very low vacuum reading. Check the inlet fuel line to ensure that a good solid flow of fuel is in the line instead of a mixture of fuel and vapors. As a test only, use a clear plastic hose between the engine and the supply line to look at the fuel flow visually.

d. Going to the next larger Inside Diameter (ID) fuel line and fittings can help lower the vacuum and help correct vapor locking conditions. An example is shown below.
5/16 in. (8 mm) fuel line and fittings ID5.5 in. Hg (17.8 kPa), too high.
3/8 in. (9.5 mm) fuel line and fittings ID2.5 in. Hg (8.2 kPa), too high.
in. (12.5 mm) fuel line and fittings ID0.8 in. Hg (2.7 kPa), good.

NOTE: Engines with 3/8 in. (9.5 mm) ID fuel line and 15 ft (4.5 m) total length or less: Going to a in. (12.5 mm) ID fuel line will not give much improvement. Fuel systems longer than 15 ft (4.5 m) may see an improvement by going to in. (12.5 mm) fuel line and fittings.

e. Mount fuel manifolds as low as possible in the engine compartment to lower the fuel temperature or remove them if possible.

6. Follow instructions below:

a. Make sure that the engine has the correct degree thermostat in it. Replace with the correct one. b. Keep fuel lines as far away from engine cooling hoses as possible. c. EFI and MPI engines with the ‘Cool Fuel’ system should have the fuel cooler temperature measured after the engine is shut off. The coolant hose going to the ‘fuel cooler’ should not get much hotter to the touch after the engine is shut off for 10-20 minutes than what it is with the engine running. If it gets hot after the engine is shut off, hot water from the cylinder block might be siphoning back. Installing the Check Valve Kit will stop this backward water flow.
NOTE: On inboard engines with water cooled prop shaft seals, make sure the water tap for this seal is not causing the siphoning. The only approved location from Mercury MerCruiser for this water supply is the raw water hose that goes to the 90-degree fitting (with Blue drain plug) in the bottom of the port exhaust manifold.
  1. How quickly the engine is shut off after running at cruising or higher rpms and how long the engine and engine compartment are allowed to cool off after use can greatly affect vapor locking. To help the boat owner reduce their chances of vapor locking, suggest that they do the items listed under 2c.
  2. Nothing can be done about the air temperature the boat is being operated in. By following suggestions outlined in 1 through 7, the causes for most vapor locking complaints can be greatly reduced.
If all suggestions 1 through 7 have been done and engine still does not restart after it is shut off, the Fuel Pump Kit can be used. This kit will help a vapor locked engine to restart. IT DOES NOT CURE VAPOR LOCKING! The engine may still bog on acceleration. Kit contains a low pressure electric fuel pump, Check Valve Kit and installation instructions. This low pressure fuel pump helps feed fuel to the pump in the cool fuel system.

NOTE: If the items in this Service Bulletin are not checked and corrected before putting the Fuel Pump Kit on, the kit might not correct the restarting of the vapor locked engine.

Kit Part Numbers

P/N 21-862271A 1 Check Valve Kit.

P/N 862733A 1 Electric Anti–Siphon Valve Kit.

P/N 862264A 3 Fuel Pump Kit, (contains Check Valve Kit).

Test Equipment

Following is a list of equipment that can be used to testing.

Testing Fuel RVP:

SPX OTC sells a test kit, Gasoline Quality Testing Kit – P/N 7670.



Testing Fuel Temperature or Vacuum:

Fittings required to make connections between engine fuel inlet and the boat’s fuel line and fitting. (1) Pipe Fitting –in. pipe thread at both ends, 1-1/2 in. (38 mm) long. (1) Tee Fitting – in. female pipe thread. (1) Schrader Valve – P/N 22-805408. (1) Cap, Schrader Valve – P/N 22-805515. Tools required to measure fuel vacuum at fuel inlet of the engine. (1) Digital Compound Gauge, that has an accuracy of within 2% of the reading. Cole-Parmer P/N P-68950-00. (Note 1) (1) Gauge Guard (30 in. Hg to 15 psi). Cole-Parmer P/N U-07359-02. (Note 1) (1) Gauge Guard Liquid (4 fl oz). Cole-Parmer P/N U-07359-50. (Note 2)

Tools required to measure fuel temperature at fuel inlet of the engine.

(1) Hose connected to digital gauge with adaptor to connect to the Schrader valve. Can use hose and Schrader valve connector from Fuel Pressure Kit, P/N 91-881833A 2.
(1) DMT 2000 Meter – P/N 91-854009A 3.
(1) Reducer Bushing –in. male to 1/8 in. female pipe thread – P/N 22-48556.
(1) Temp Probe Compression Fitting – 1/8 in. pipe thread. Cole-Parmer P/N H-08539-04.
(1) Temp Probe – 4 in. long with K connector. Cole-Parmer P/N P-08117-45.
(1) Temp Probe Extension Cable – 10 ft long with K connector. Cole-Parmer P/N H-08516-30.
 
Last edited:

karayj

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 4, 2002
Messages
472
I forgot to add timing was done dwell is good cap and points new / water pump looks good no leaks
 

karayj

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 4, 2002
Messages
472
You know it could be the fuel pump considering the boat has sat for 7 yeas . The diaphragm could be worn and as it get hot get worse and lose pressure , I am getting new one they are only 50.00 for a sierra
 

Rick Stephens

Admiral
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Aug 13, 2013
Messages
6,118
I think it more likely your carb is leaking into the intake and flooding things than that you have a vapor lock. Really hard to vapor lock when you have unlimited cooling, which is used to cool even exhaust. But it seems easy to assume a fuel pump and spend money to test. I guess it would cost half that to purchase a vacuum gauge - most of them can test fuel pressure as well. Let us know how the pump works out.
 

nola mike

Vice Admiral
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Apr 22, 2009
Messages
5,705
Those are also symptoms of a leaky manifold joint on that engine. Any white smoke on startup? Coolant loss?
 

karayj

Chief Petty Officer
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Aug 4, 2002
Messages
472
Fuel pump is 40.00 boat sat for 8 years so might as well. The diaphragm must be bad anyways the gas was terrible in the tank that I drained. No smoke on start up. I just did a head gasket 2 months ago no coolant leak or smell. Here are the symptoms>>>> I moved and replaced the coil it was sitting on the water pump hose, I raised if about 10 inches away

When i run the boat for 15 min stop it restarts fine. If I run the boat for 30 -45 min up and down the lake and head to the dock it is fine .
If I turn off the boat after running 30 to 45 min and try to restart it immediate and when it finally does after 5 attempts it will not stay idle.. once I put it in drive it shuts off and on restart is feel like it is running of 3 cly or flooded when I put it in gear it dies. I guess I should not shut it off ... one person said after doing runs idle around and run your vent pump and open then rear cover I have allow heat to leave .
 

karayj

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 4, 2002
Messages
472
Fuel pump is 40.00 boat sat for 8 years so might as well. The diaphragm must be bad anyways the gas was terrible in the tank that I drained. No smoke on start up. I just did a head gasket 2 months ago no coolant leak or smell. Here are the symptoms>>>> Over heating coil??? I moved and replaced the coil it was sitting on the water pump hose, I raised if about 10 inches away

When i run the boat for 15 min stop it restarts fine. If I run the boat for 30 -45 min up and down the lake and head to the dock it is fine .
If I turn off the boat after running 30 to 45 min and try to restart it immediate and when it finally does after 5 attempts it will not stay idle.. once I put it in drive it shuts off and on restart is feel like it is running of 3 cly or flooded when I put it in gear it dies. I guess I should not shut it off ... one person said after doing runs idle around and run your vent pump and open then rear cover I have allow heat to leave .
 

karayj

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 4, 2002
Messages
472
For the leaky manifold suggestions should I buy a new intake gasket and install it;s an easy job I dont mind.
But has everyone read my symptoms ? stop and go no problem all day doing 10 min runs . IF I run for 30 min and shut it off and try to restart i get problems ..Tomorrow I am going go keep the VENt Pump on open the rear access cover to let air circulate as I get close to the ramp. Once there I will shut it off and turn it back on to see what happens with my cool down test
 

Rick Stephens

Admiral
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Aug 13, 2013
Messages
6,118
Next time it won't start and you been cranking for a bit, pull a plug and see if it is wet or dry.
 

karayj

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 4, 2002
Messages
472
So no longer an issue / The breather hose was loose filling the engine area with BAD air, similar to what happened in TopGun when he went through the jet wash. On a hunch I open the engine cover after flying around and was able to vent the area well. Then i shut off the engine and it started right up. Then I notice 2 3 1/2" fresh air hoses were not installed left side of the boat. Then I tighten the hose from the valve cover to flame arrester. Now the boat runs amazing/ never gets hot and starts right after you shut it off. It was lack of clean air in the engine compartment.


Merc posted this and it was true...

a. Over the last several years, engine compartments have been designed to be quieter. This is done by using an insulation material and by making ‘engine covers’ tighter. This can cause high air temperature inside the engine compartment while the engine is operating and for a period of time after it is shut off. This period of time is called the ‘heat soak’ time. The air temperature inside the engine compartment during a ‘heat soak’ will rise higher than during the engine’s ‘running time’. This is because there is no air movement inside the compartment and no coolant flow through the engine. Normally, the quieter the engine compartment is, the hotter the air temperature will be on the inside during the ‘heat soak’. The highest air temperatures during a ‘heat soak’ will occur 30-40 minutes after the engine is shut off and can stay at that peak for up to 1-1/2 hours. This greatly increases the chances of vapor locking.

b. Mercury MerCruiser engine compartment air temperature specification that became effective January 1, 1996 is:

Under the hottest outside air temperature condition that the boat will be operated in, the maximum air temperature inside the engine compartment, measured at the flame arrestor, shall not exceed 176[SUP]o[/SUP] F (80[SUP]o[/SUP] C).

c. Increasing engine compartment ventilation to move the hot air out of it during a ‘heat soak’ will decrease vapor locking. Other items that can help reduce vapor locking are:

Letting an engine idle for 3-5 minutes before shutting it off.

Open the engine cover to let the hot air escape.

Operate the bilge blower to remove the hot air.
 

karayj

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 4, 2002
Messages
472
It was the issue so I noticed on the passenger side vent in the rear had no hoses I guess the previous owner took them out once I added two hoses and taped up one on the driver side with three hoses ventilating the engine compartment things are great. Basically there was no fresh air also there was a hose going from the valve cover to the carburetor. Well that hose was loose so the combination was causing the problems after fast runs filling the compartment with bad air.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
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Jul 23, 2011
Messages
51,331
nearly every boat out there has only one side of the vents with hoses. that is the incoming air side. only the exhaust side needs a hose and a blower

your engine is a bigger air mover than the blower. the engine is moving 350-400 CFM of air, so the air exchange when the motor is running is about 4 air changes per minute for your engine compartment
 
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