Electric shift stuck in drive

ryan04

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jan 26, 2005
Messages
212
I have a 1969 55hp triumph. It got given to me about a month ago, anyway I got it running good but when I went to put it in the lake suddenly It was stuck in drive. Now I know there are solenoids in the electric shift, but what do they look like? more important do I have to dismantel the leg to get to them? Also because it's stuck in drive it won't fire up, is there a way to fire it up when it's in gear? Hope that's enough, sorry if I'm vague, I'm new at this whole thing. thanks :confused:
 

jimmbo

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 24, 2004
Messages
13,695
Re: Electric shift stuck in drive

That design defaults to forward gear when the engine is shut off. With the neutral soliniod energized and the engine cranking there will be enough oil pressure to shift the unit into neutral. If you're gonna work on that beast get a service manual.<br /> As for starting it in gear. That engine can be started in gear by leaving the key at home and taking the cowl off and rope starting it. Worked back in the 70s when someone wanted to go skiing and needed to "borrow" a boat for a couple hours :D
 

rodbolt

Supreme Mariner
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Sep 1, 2003
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20,066
Re: Electric shift stuck in drive

hello<br /> search about for hydro-electric shift problems on this forum. Joe Reeves has posted a lot of info. the cause of your failure could be almost anywhere from the hydraulic pump in the lower to a bad connection in the control box<br />sounds like a good reading session with the manual and a good reading on how to use a voltmeter is in order :) :) . if you leave the key at home you still have to supply the ign system with 12 volts with a jumper lead or you can pull till the cows moon ya and still not start the engine. but the cows may smile :) :) .
 

alden135

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Sep 1, 2004
Messages
1,770
Re: Electric shift stuck in drive

I have an electric shift also. As such, I did major searching on this site for info. One post mentioned that the motor may shift just fine on the muffs, but not in the water. It's looks from your post that you have a similar issue. Appparently what can happen is one of the wires may be chaffed through the insulation on it's way down into the lower unit. When this happens the water screws with the circuit. You should disconnect the knife blade connectors under the cowl and remove the lower unit to inspect. I did not have this problem but as I said, experts have mentioned this possibility. You need to drop the lower to replace the water pump impeller anyway.
 

Joe Reeves

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Feb 24, 2002
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13,262
Re: Electric shift stuck in drive

(Hydro Electric Shift)<br />(J. Reeves)<br /><br />The shifting setup of the lower unit is what's called a "Hydro Electric Shift", which is quite complex consisting of voltage being applied to solenoids in the lower unit which in turn change oil passages via a oil pump that supplies various pressure on a spring loaded shifter dog. The wires leading to the lower unit (at the powerhead) are "Green" and "Blue". The engine must be running or cranking over in order to shift out of forward gear.<br /> <br />You CAN NOT use HI VIS lube in that lower unit. You MUST USE what OMC calls "Preminum Blend" lube, commonly called "Type C". (A thinner lube) <br /><br />In neutral, you need 12v to the "Green" wire. <br />In reverse, you need 12v to both wires, the "Green" one and the "Blue" one. <br />In forward, there should be no voltage to either wire. (The spring loaded shifter dog forces the unit into forward gear) <br /><br />To check the lower unit for proper shifting to make sure you have no trouble there, remove the spark plugs to avoid problems and to allow a higher cranking speed. <br /><br />This next step eliminates the actual shift switch in case problems may exist there.... Disconnect the blue & green wires at the knife connectors (the rubber insulated boots) leading to the lower unit at the powerhead, then using jumpers, take voltage direct from the starter solenoid to apply voltage to the "Green" wire for neutral, then both wires 'Green" & "Blue" for reverse (Remember the engine must be cranking over in order to shift).<br /> <br />With no voltage applied, the unit should be in forward. No need for a ground jumper... the lower unit's already grounded. You may crank the engine with the key switch or by energizing the starter solenoid with a jumper wire.
 

ryan04

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jan 26, 2005
Messages
212
Re: Electric shift stuck in drive

Thanks alot guys, I hooked up a voltage meter to the wires and added power to my green neutral wire and the unit shifted just fine. For some reason there is no power running into the switch box, although the box is fine. I tried to start it in neutral but it still wouldn't go. when i turn the key it wants to fire up right away, but only stays running as long as I keep the key turned all the way and keep the starter going, which is very bad. I've tested for spark and we're getting pleanty of that on all three cylinders. One major factor I found was there was no air filter!!!!!!!!! So I'm guessing the carb's need a good cleaning and a good run through and she'll fire up just fine. What do you guys think? thanks alot for everything!!
 

rodbolt

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 1, 2003
Messages
20,066
Re: Electric shift stuck in drive

you have some wiring issues. time to test the keyswitch and the purple wires running back to the engine with key on engine off. wow no air filkter? mmmmm cause it was designed without it. very few boaters have a dust problem, most that do have inaacurate GPS systems or bad depth sounders. actually the fine mist that accumulates on the cover traps the dirt. we have more problems with the rotten foam than dust.what manual are you working out of >
 

ryan04

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jan 26, 2005
Messages
212
Re: Electric shift stuck in drive

Up until now, I haven't been using one, i'd like to think that between me and a neighbour who used to be a marine mechanic a long long time ago we can figure it out. But your absolutely right, I'm getting a manual pretty quick. The purple wire has contiuity all the way back, but isn't getting any power regardless if the key is on or off. It runs to this little circular cap. One power wire running into the cap to a circular contact and the purple wire to the other circular contact. When the rubber cover is put over it has a metal contact that touches both, I think somewhere in there is where the trouble may be. But it looks so basic. Is there also a way to maybe check the points to see if there still good? I've got a parts 55hp 2cyl with good points would they work?<br /> I really value your oppinion. Thank you so much rodbolt, let me know what you think. (not about my stupidity hehehehe)
 
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