electrical clicking

[deputydawg]

OK, when I connect my battery I hear a strange click. With the battery connected, about every 15 seconds the key switch says click click. 2 clicking noises every 15 to 20 seconds. <br />Something is wrong with the starting circuit too. Engine won't turn with key, but will turn when I arc across the selenoid. <br />I have a 1976 Mercury 165hp. Any help?

 

[Elk Chaser]

Re: electrical clicking

Remove the key switch and test the terminals for proper contact closure when turning the key. If it does not seem to be right then replace the key switch. That's what I would do

 

[Don S]

Re: electrical clicking

Sounds like the clicking of an hour meter for the engine. <br />Start could be bad switch, bad neutral safety switch, bad slave solenoid (If you have one, not sure about the 165's) or even the wiring is getting old and not allowing enough power from the switch to the engine starter solenoid. If that is the case, adding a slave solenoid or relay can cure your problem. Here's a simple diagram of a start system with the slave.<br /><br />

 

[steve n carol]

Re: electrical clicking

you may try having another set of hands and ears try to locate the source of the clicking as you connect and disconnect your battery. I have the ford solinoids as well as solinoids on the R and L feul lines. I was having a similar phenomenon. I traced it to a connection that powered the key switch and had become disconnected...sl

 

[steve n carol]

Re: electrical clicking

hey don hows Alaska? We drove there last year had a GREAT time...sl

 

[deputydawg]

Re: electrical clicking

I am pretty sure the clicking is coming from the key switch. It is pretty loud, and when I hold the switch tight it gets quiet. Is there a breaker in the switch that is opening and closing because of a short? <br />It really started after I removed and reinstalled the trim pump, possibly have a wire wrong there causing a dead short? I disconnected the trim pump wire from the battery/starter selenoid, but it still clicks. <br />Any simple diagrams for a trim pump wiring with a single selenoid?

 

[deputydawg]

Re: electrical clicking

also thanks Don, that diagram helped figure how it is wired.

 

[Scaaty]

Re: electrical clicking

I would look for a short causing a breaker to do its job

 

[Don S]

Re: electrical clicking

There are no relay or breakers inside the ignition switch. Look behind the dash and disconnect the positive wire from the hour meter and give it another try. <br />Does any of your insturments jump or anything when the clicking occurs?<br />Here is a link to the Prestolite power trim pump like you have on your 165. It's a .pdf file and may take a while to open. The wiring diagram is on the last page<br /><br /> Power Trim

 

[deputydawg]

Re: electrical clicking

Thanks for the diagram. My trim pump only has 1 selenoid, but helpful. <br />I may have found the problem. Wires to the back of the boat are bare and coroded, trim limit switch, trim indicator, and another I assume is the neutral safety switch. I think (hope) that I moved them when working with the trim pump and caused a short. <br />I definately have a short, my guages don't work now and when I connect the battery it sparks a little.

 

[Don S]

Re: electrical clicking

The neutral safety switch is located on the throttle/shifter control.

 

[deputydawg]

Re: electrical clicking

Thanks very much Don S, the clicking was the hour meter. Now I need to find out why the hour meter is ticking time when the battery is connected and the ignition is off. Also the coil gets very hot whenever I connect the battery. I'm thinking bad switch or bad selenoid. <br />By the way, I was reading past posts and see that Don S is a fact spewing gas bag or something like that. I for one am glad you are, you have been so much help to me, and I am learning a lot. <br />Problem 2 of 143 solved, so far spent $5, wife still happy, so all is well.

 

[Don S]

Re: electrical clicking

Here's something you might check. Look at the battery cable where it goes onto the starter. Is it also touching the outer most solenoid terminal or wire? If so, that is the hot start and would keep the ignition system hot all the time. Also see if the yellow/red wire on the inner small terminal is on the solenoid and not broken.

 

[deputydawg]

Re: electrical clicking

I checked the connections at the starter and selenoid. All is well there, no crossed or touching wires. <br />The ignition switch tested good, no continuity between red and purple until switch is in run position, and nothing between red and white until in start position.<br />I made a voltage test on wire when switch was removed. red wire is hot, purple wire is hot, white wire is cold. Shouldn't the purple wire be cold until charged from the switch? I tested the connection where it would connect to the switch.<br />Back to my first thought, I hooked something backwards when I put the trim pump back in. I am thinking the whole trouble is in the rear wherever the purple wire is being charged from.<br />Does the purple wire connect to the selenoid or right into the coil? The wiring diagram helped, but leaves a few questions open. The hot red wire comes in from the amp meter right? <br />Also when I connect the battery all of the guages jump, so I am charging the acc. system constant. <br />Also probably a different problem but switch will not activate the starter motor. But that is the next problem to tackle.

 

[Don S]

Re: electrical clicking

Here is one way to test your switch and ignition system.<br />1. Remove the white (Start) and purple (ignition) wires from the ignition switch.<br />2. With a test light attached to a known good ground. test the following.<br /> a. red wire still on ignition switch. Should be on, this means you have power to the switch and the test light works <br /> b. check the purple wire that is unhooked from the switch. Light should not light, if it does, then you have something hooked up wrong and it's putting power into the ignition wiring (probably on the back of the engine where you were working) OOPS!!!!<br /> c. check where the purple wire was at on the ign. switch with the key in the OFF position. You should not have a light.<br /> d. turn the ign. on and check the terminal again. The light should be on.<br /> e. turn the switch to the start position and check the switch connection where the white wire was. IF the light comes on, the switch is ok.<br />3. Hook the wires back up.<br />4. Go back to the starter (bring your test light) <br />5. Hook the test light to a good ground and test it on the big terminal on the starter. It should light.<br />6. Have someone turn the ign. key to the start position. The light should light, if it comes on, only a lot dimmer, the wire needs replaced (it's just corroded beyond use), if it doesn't come on check the neutral safety switch. That is easy to do, just take the wires off and hook the wires together, if the engine cranks, the neutral safety switch is bad.

 

[deputydawg]

Re: electrical clicking

Thanks Don again for the good advice. The problem was your first suggestion, the pos. wire on the starter touching the ignition terminal. I missed it the first time I checked it. Still have the problem of the starter not engaging when I turn the key to the start position, but that should be easier to isolate. So problem 3 is fixed, but now problem 2 is back, the trim pump won't run when I get it filled with oil. Motor must be bad and the extra resistance from oil is making it not run.<br />Thanks again for the time and patience.