End gap, ring, cylinder (photos 54 twin)

kodibass

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Apr 10, 2010
Messages
865
First sorry about the poor photos, this is the 1954 twin 25 I am attempting to rering hope the photos give the basic idea of how I measured the ring gap, it did not come out clear in the photos but the gauge is .009 on that cylinder, the other is .011 Does it look like I'm measuring in the correct manner? I tried to show the cylinder condition/ hone a bit as well. I think I mite have just got a lead on another powerhead for this motor. between the 2 maybe I can have a bit more luck.
 

Attachments

  • ringgap 001.jpg
    ringgap 001.jpg
    142.5 KB · Views: 0
  • ringgap 002.jpg
    ringgap 002.jpg
    155.4 KB · Views: 0
  • ringgap 004.jpg
    ringgap 004.jpg
    143.4 KB · Views: 0
  • ringgap 006.jpg
    ringgap 006.jpg
    146.9 KB · Views: 0

Faztbullet

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 2, 2008
Messages
15,931
Re: End gap, ring, cylinder (photos 54 twin)

You need to measure down closer to ports and from looks of cylinders they where ball honed.
 

F_R

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jul 7, 2006
Messages
28,226
Re: End gap, ring, cylinder (photos 54 twin)

It looks like you are measuring correctly. By "looks like" I mean if you used a piston to square up the ring in the bore. I wonder if you really even have a problem. If I recall correctly, you said you had to thunk on the piston with a dowel or something to move it. That is not abnormal, depending on just how hard you have to thunk it. Judgement call. Furthermore, it appears that you did not move your hone in and out fast enough and have more or less circular hone marks, rather than a crosshatch. That will make the rings slide harder.

I'd do another light re-hone to get more crosshatch, and go ahead and put it together. It will slide easier when it breaks in a bit.. After all, that's what a break-in period is for.

EDIT: I do see another possible problem. It appears your new rings are wider (depth-wise) than the old ones. Make sure the grooves in the piston are deep enough for those wider rings. Also make sure there is no carbon in the bottom of the ring grooves, that would prevent the rings from going deep enough in the groove. With the piston and rings installed in the cylinder, you should be able to move the crown of the piston sideways a bit. If it is jam-up tight and won't move sideways, you have a ring depth problem. Actually, those pistons are tapered and normally have an almost alarming amount of lateral play at the head end.
 

kodibass

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Apr 10, 2010
Messages
865
Re: End gap, ring, cylinder (photos 54 twin)

F_R Thank you for the reply, ok I will move the ring further down near the ports and re-measure, And Fatzbullet you are correct I did use a ball hone made by flexhone in the med/fine grade I will re-hone moving a bit faster and try to get the crosshatch, again thanks so much for the help, it is very reassuring. I just went out and bought a digital caliper so I can take measurements and post them of the ring cylinders ect. I will try a reassemble after I re-hone / and install.. and post the outcome. kb
 
Top