Engine and transom assembly removed, what should I look at while they are out.

[rad1026]

1989 Chaparral 2100SX, 5.7L with Alpha 1 outdrive. I have a thread going in the hull restoration forum because I am rebuilding my transom. Great help over there! I have my engine out and transom assembly off. I have inspected my bellows, gimbal bearing, steering arm play, coupler wear. Are there things I should do just because the engine is out? Are bellows easier to do while the whole assembly is off the boat? I don't have any play in my steering arm but is there something I should do there? I certainly don't have an unlimited budget, but if it makes sense to perform maintenance or replace parts while the engine and drive are off I would like to consider it. Thanks for the advice.

 

[tpenfield]

I know when I had the Mercruiser 454 out of my Formula 242 I got a good look at all the places on the engine that I could not see or reach. that is a good time for general inspection, taking care of rust, etc. Replace stuff that is in really bad shape, like the engine mounts. Same can go for the transom assembly, but probably dealing more with corrosion than anything else. I don't think doing the bellow would be any easier with the transom assembly off vs. installed.

 

[Fishermark]

You might want to consider adding a hose for the oil change that goes through the drain plug in the transom. I personally like them... I know others have different opinions. But it makes changing the oil easier. Like mentioned above - it is a good time to assess the condition of the bottom of the engine and paint if necessary. Boating exclusively in salt water I like to spray some corrosion inhibitor on the engine while it is out - CRC makes a good product that goes on and forms a film. Very durable.

Plus check you bilge pumps, etc while you're at it.

 

[rad1026]

I put this on my oil pan a few years ago. Works great! They make them with a nipple so you can attach a hose out the drain hole. Attach hose, reach in and open valve, drain oil. I would like to re-position my oil filter though, that is such a messy job.

 

[JASinIL2006]

I did not add the oil change hose to the oil pan when I had my engine out, and I now really regret it. It would have been such an improvement over extracting the oil via the dipstick. Next time my engine is out (hopefully, no time soon!), I will put on a drain tube without hesitation.

 

[rad1026]

with the valve you don't have to pull the engine, at least I didn't. I was able to reach under there when I had the oil drained and replace the pan nut.

 

[tpenfield]

Another thing that I have looked for ( not looked at) is for all of the tools I 'lost' into the depths of the bilge and could not see to retrieve them.

 

[NHGuy]

Ted, get a big ol magnet man!
OP, make sure you get that bilge super clean, then think about recoating it. Change the engine gaskets, they are over 25 years old. They are super easy to reach while the engine is out. You can get a chevy full kit at some place like rock auto for a very reasonable price. It would also be pretty smart to change the rubber fuel lines.
I'm going to paint my bilge and do that other stuff this spring too. I will use light gray rustoleum. And then I''m going to detail every hard to reach spot!

 

[rad1026]

So I have been slowly working on replacing my transom. In the mean time I walk past my engine and outdrive transom assembly in my garage every day. I keep looking at the intermediate shift lever and shift shaft and how it goes down through two brass seals. How do those brass seals keep water from entering the main bellows area? I just don't understand how that works?

 

[Bt Doctur]

The large rubber ring that is glued in place stops water from entering the main bellow. Putting some grease around that fitting also helps keep the droplets out of the shift cavity

 

[Fishermark]

So I have been slowly working on replacing my transom. In the mean time I walk past my engine and outdrive transom assembly in my garage every day. I keep looking at the intermediate shift lever and shift shaft and how it goes down through two brass seals. How do those brass seals keep water from entering the main bellows area? I just don't understand how that works?

As mentioned, the big square o ring keeps water out of the bellows - but water can still cause problems if the brass seals leak. Mercruiser came out with an updated version with additional sealing power. If you do not have the new style, now would be a good time to install new seals. You can see the new style here:

 

[rad1026]

yeah, I have that new seal on order. I guess that's my question. The exhaust cavity is open to water. How does the brass seal keep water from intruding around the shift shaft and going in to the gimbal bellow? Brass on a steel shaft being water tight doesn't really make sense to me.

 

[Fishermark]

There are actually a couple of rubber seals inside the large brass bushing.

 

[rad1026]

Awwwww, now I get it, thanks!

 

[rad1026]

No Title

okay, here is a pic of my intermediate shift shaft. It has a tiny bit of wear at the bottom end. I want to replace and update the seals. Think its okay to reuse?
Also a pic of one of the lower aluminum transom bolts. One was so corroded it broke. This one shows some pitting, should I replace it?
And finally the middle transom bolts. For sure one needs to be replaced, the other is in pretty good shape. Is this a standard size? what grade? It looks like it could be brass?

Thanks for the help!

 

[Fishermark]

It's been awhile since I have purchased the lower transom bolts - the aluminum ones. I thought they came in a package with both bolts... but I may be wrong. The one you have pictured doesn't look too bad.

On the other bolts. I don't think they are special, but don't remember their size. You can take them to your hardware store and see. It seems like they are either 7/16" or 1/2" bolts. I would suggest grade 8... but again, I am not sure of what they are originally. But no, they are not brass.

 

[rad1026]

yes, I found the aluminum bolts, looks like they come as a set. The others I will find at a local fastener shop. I'm sure they will be able to tell me what they are made of. Thanks!

 

[rad1026]

Grade 5 zinc bolts 7/16x14x4.25" Good luck finding one at a hardware store or bolt shop. My go to guys here in Albuquerque only had 4" or 4.5". All I could find on line was 4" or 4.5". Finally found the part number 10-37268 and got them off ebay. Not cheap.