Engine cranks up but dies when I release the key to the run position

[Zacharay55]

I'll double check tomorrow but I believe there is no resistance on post with key in off position. And I have an pen for cobra engines. But I'll double check n make sure cause I ain't gone keep buyin coils!

 

[bruceb58]

You have to measure the voltage drop with the points closed and the key on. Should be around 9V

 

[bruceb58]

Out of curiosity, what is your model number?
Will look something like this:
302APRMED

That will tell you the real year you are working on here.

 

[Benny67]

Thanks Zacharay55...glad to hear it's running

BTW,

I never finished my EE degree....but still work in the Industrial Electronics field and have so for 27+ years now. For whatever that's worth

 

[Zacharay55]

I took industrial mechanics and electricity at a tech schools hole I was in highschool, chose to go to aircraft mechanics school.. Fun stuff. And Bruce the voltage is right.

 

[Benny67]

Bruceb58,

We have a guy here where I work who does the same type of troubleshooting...rules out stuff before knowing the full story or seeing the full picture.

Some people say it's cause he thinks he's the cat's pajamas and thinks he's never wrong.. even when it's proven to him when others have to finish his tasks because of this mindset.

I myself, think something else about him.

He also has an Engineering degree....

get my point?

 

[bruceb58]

Benny,

Just trying to help the guy and keep him from going in the wrong direction. If you haven't noticed, I am going through troubleshooting steps with him.

You are taking this in a completely different direction and not sure why.

I will leave it at that.

 

[bruceb58]

I took industrial mechanics and electricity at a tech schools hole I was in highschool, chose to go to aircraft mechanics school.. Fun stuff. And Bruce the voltage is right.

Was the voltage 12V with the key off?

Do you have a points ignition still?

 

[Grandad]

As Bruce said, there may be a ("ballast") resistor or a resistance wire that the engine, once started, uses to power the ignition. Before the engine starts, while cranking the engine, power is supplied by another wire without added resistance. This gives you a hotter spark to start, but a reduced voltage and current while running to save burning your points. The problem could exist with the resistive circuit. Bypassing this resistance will enable your engine to run, but the points may prematurely fail. - Grandad

 

[Benny67]

bruce,

I am done and said my piece...good luck to you

 

[Zacharay55]

Bruce , I have no voltage with key off. My previous posts had a lot of spelling errors. Everything is as it should be. And it's a stratos 1700xl with a 3 litre omc . Where would I find my model number. I need to know this cause I tried to register it today and had everything but that. I figured it was 1700xl as a model but it wasn't..

 

[bruceb58]

You need the Hull ID for that. It will be on the stern near the upper starboard corner.

I sure would love to see how the previous OP wired your engine.

 

[Zacharay55]

What does op mean? And engine I believe is wired factory. Whoever changed the starter got mixed up or confused or was just a run of the mill dumb***

 

[bruceb58]

OP was a mistype. Meant owner.

Just to show you how it is supposed to be wired:
Wire #24 (purple/black)is the one that allows the resistor wire to be bypassed during the start operation so you get full voltage to the coil. It should be the only one from your starter solenoid to your coil. This is the one that made your engine run while only starter was engaged before.

Wire #22 (purple/red)is the resistor wire that somehow is messed up on your wiring.

This is from an OEM OMC manual but is a few years newer than yours so it is not exact. That is why I asked your model number before. From the diagram, you should see why I said that your starter solenoid shouldn't be your issue. Wire 22 should NOT be going to your starter solenoid. I had a 87 OMC with a 5.0 and mine was exactly like this.

Out of curiosity, does your ESA still work. Will the engine stumble if you depress the shift switch on the shift cable bracket? If he rewired your coil wire, who knows what he did with power to the ESA. Ever have problems getting it out of gear when the boat is in the water? You still have a points ignition on this?

 

[Zacharay55]

Man to be honest I don't know what an esa is and I haven't gotten it on the water yet. I'm headin out this mornin to test everything out on the water and not just some Mickey mouse clips. And the problem was that the #24 wire was on the same post as the #4 or 5 wire, it's hard to tell on there. But not the battery post on the solenoid but the other small post. You mcan an points ignition like distributor?

 

[bruceb58]

Yes, open the distributor cap and see if it has points in it.

 

[Zacharay55]

Yea that's all good. I took it out saterday and ran like a top, then all of a sudden, "clank clank" and engine seized and wouldn't turn over... Hmm I took the foot off. And engine is fine.. Now somethin in the foot is messed up is what caused the engine to stop. I know this is off my original topic. But are you familiar with the foot? Most I've done is change impellers n gaskets..

 

[Lou C]

Did someone change the oil in the Cobra drive and not re fill it the right way?
Most Cobras take about 2 qts of gear oil...
You can remove the top cover and look at the upper gears; if they are all worn down you got your answer. If not it's possible a piece broke off one of the gears and jammed up the drive.

 

[bruceb58]

Many people fill it from the bottom like a Mercruiser. If they did that, it's a sure way to not fill it all the way. You checked the gear lube level before you took it out?

 

[Zacharay55]

Took the out drive off n opened up the upper gear case and the upper pinion carrier bearing had failed due to low oil in the unit. Replaced upper n lower bearings in the pinion housing and slapped it back together . All good now