Engine is gas lighting me

Nextelbuddy

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 4, 2020
Messages
164
Long read but it's for context sorry

Interesting oil level and moisture issue...
2007 Cobalt 212 with a 5.0 gxi-g bought new to me last year.

Few months ago I changed the oil and filter. I added 5.5 quarts of oil. Oil level looked good and showed in the safe zone on the dip stick. I used one of those manual pumps that screws onto the tube and sucks it through the dipstick tube.

Never ran the engine after that. Ended up having to change the manifolds and risers..I tried removing them and the bolts were seized due to rust from previous owners running engine in salt water.

So I sourced low hour manifolds and risers from a fresh water boat, installed them with new bolts and riser gaskets. Did a whole other bunch of maintenance such as , water pump rebuild, fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator replacements, replacement corsa solenoids and diverters

Last weekend I put the engine on the flush hose and ran the motor up to temp no problem.. thermostat was opening and closing as expected and no overheating and engine was running great. I didn't actually check the oil though. Also during this time I filled the bilge with water with the drain plug in and used Dawn soap and some other cleaners to give the bilge a good cleaning which worked out great. As far as I understand, when I looked the water level never made it to the pan. I didn't put that much water in there. But again I had no issues. The engine was fine and I took the boat to storage.

Today I went to the boat to try to change out the Anti-Siphon valve... Before doing that I decided I wanted to check the oil.

When I pulled the dipstick there was just a very low amount of oil and was milky. I pulled the dipstick about three or four more times. Same result. Low level and milky. I had two quarts of brand new oil so I added them and at that point adding 2 quarts of oil should have meant that I had 7 quarts of oil yet the dipstick showed no oil and it was pushed all the way in. I went and adjusted the tongue of the trailer all the way up all the way down in the middle and no matter how level or which way I went... The dipstick never showed oil on the dipstick level. It was the most crazy thing. 7 quarts of oil but it shows empty.

I started the engine anyway for 1 min to see if I had oil pressure and I did, also wanted to circulate the oil

So I got really scared and worried that there was water in my oil or that there was a crack in the block somewhere and I was losing oil out the exhaust but I never saw any smoke or anything

So I went to the parts store and got a clear jug and extracted all of the oil out into the container fully expected chocolate milk...but it was just clean oil..also pulled the oil filter and nothing but clean amber oil.

I poured all the oil i extracted into quart jugs and it was exactly 7 quarts of oil. Why then did my dip stick refuse to show oil on the stick.

I added 6.5 quarts of brand new oil and installed a new oil filter on the remote filter, put the engine on the water hose and starter the engine..let it run for 20 min..had nice water flow out the exhaust, no smoke and temps going out 175 max and no over heating.

Turned engine off, checked the oil level on the stick and it was right on the safe zone.

I backed the.boat back into its storage spot, checked the level again and nice and level on 6.5 quarts.

I feel like this engine is gas lighting me. Dip stick showed no oil with 7 quarts of oil but with 6.5 new quarts it shows nice and level.

So that's the 2 issues curious....has anyone ever has condensation or moisture in the dipstick tube to get milky oil on the stick but there was no water in the pan? And what the heck is going on with the dip stick level readout.
 

BRICH1260

Lieutenant
Joined
Jul 6, 2011
Messages
1,415
I cant offer an explanation but it seems fine now. I`d just run it and have fun. Maybe check it after a few outings just to be sure though.
 

aspeck

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
May 29, 2003
Messages
19,813
You got me ... the boat gremlins are apparently not happy with you for some reason ... maybe you need to get the boat out on the water more than it is in storage?????;)
 

Fun Times

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
May 16, 2009
Messages
9,375
Theory/s...

Looking at the design of your oil dipstick to oil pan configuration, one thought could be how was the condition of the old oil from the first oil change and even if it was ok (not milky), did the old oil get stuck within the fitting flow characteristics and then become temperature related to eventually cause condensation 'plus be blocked (or trapped) by the fitting holes of the brass fitting and retainer too not letting you get a good oil level reading sometime later on of time 'until you cleared it again with sucking out / moving the trapped oil.

looking at the parts catalog, the dipstick doesn't go directly into the oil pan, the oil has to flow down to the fitting and fill the fitting and the oil tube to get a reading... And the fitting/bolt retainer has its own little hole the oil has to flow through as you'll see looking up the part numbers linked below with photos of the components holding it all together.

Also, in most cases no matter design of oil tube placement to oil pan, direction of inserting the dipstick matters to get a reading of either full to the line and/or a reading of just under the full line on the opposite of the stick.

Sometimes the owner's manual may help suggest the direction of putting the dipstick in the tube to help get the most accurate reading along with the best place to check and add the oil is with the boat at rest in the water on a calm day.

Next time try playing with the direction of the oil tube by facing (turning) the lines of the stick both towards and away from the engine to see if you get 2 different full to near full oil level readings as most tend to do including cars, etc..

last note: Should this ever happen again, try blowing air via strong mouth pressure down the tube to circulate/move the oil in the tube, the fittings to get a better/new level reading... And should you really think the oil has become milky blow harder/longer to try and circulate the oil in the pan to help mix the oil and water without having to run the engine to mix it up and see if the stick is coming out milkier. If you need more air pressure then you could use a low air psi component source...Often you can hear the oil bubbling inside the oil pan to help know its mixing should water really be in there when blowing.



 
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