Engine Problems Advice Please

uinthas7

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Dec 13, 2015
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June 2015 I purchased a 2003 Sea Ray 17.5' boat with a 3.0 Mercruiser. First month or so it was fine but I noticed it would rev to 5200 - 5400 rpm's and thought that was odd. I ran it probably more than I should of above 4800 rpm's but finally realized I shouldn't be doing that and always backed it down to 4800. I also started to experience lag problems, where I would hit full throttle and the boat would spit and sputter and then finally kick in and go wide open. Ran that way until October when I was on a lake running 4800 rpm and BAM a loud noise engine died would not restart.

Come to find out I blew the engine and the #1 cylinder valve went through the piston. Bought a brand new motor form Michigan motorz in January and had a local (good reputation boat shop) remove the motor and install the new one, I kept my old parts (carb, distributor, etc) I told the dealer exactly what had happened and chose to have them install it to go through everything thurally to make sure this did not happen again. They told me the believed I floated the valve because of high rpm and that is what caused the engine failure. I told them about the lag and sputter issues and they told me they would go through the carb.

Got the boat back in February, had a break in schedule to follow and did that in March. 10 hours alternating rpm and oil and filter change after 10 hours, did that. My first trip to the lake being able to open her up didn't go well.. The lag and sputter problem returned, but figured ok I need to have them look at the carb again, not a huge deal. 3 hours into the trip at full throttle (would only get up to 4300 rpm now) BAM again loud noice would not restart, 13 hours on the motor at this point.

Got it back home, tested compression #2 cyclider had nothing. Took it back to the dealer, they stuck a camera down there and the same thing, valve through the piston. They indicated they had no idea what would cause that other than manufacutre defect, didn't overheat and the plugs were if anything black indicating no lean condition.

Called Michigan motorz because I have a 1 year warranty. I pulled the motor myself this time as I was not going to pay for it again, shipped it back to them and they called me yesterday indicating they would not warranty it because if failed because of a lean condition and possibly timing (even though the dealer swears it was timed correctly) They indicated they would repair the motor however by putting new piston and rings in, but I would need to pay to have some machine work done on the head as it was damaged.

I'm at a total loss as what to do now, I will have them fix it but I dont know whether to keep the damn thing or get rid of it. The guy I talked to at Michigan Motorz says he works day in and day out on motors and is posotive that is what caused it and said he will fix the motor up so it will run for years (he said he would fix the carb also) It makes no sense to me a lean condition cause this with how the plugs looked and it's hard for me to think a lean condition would cause that type of damage. At this point I am at a loss for who or what is correct in the diagnosis. This brand new motor set me back $3500 after install, and now I'll probably have to throw another $500 at it and dont know if this is going to happen again or not.

I wold love to keep the boat as I bought it to enjoy, and if I got rid of it I am not sure I could stomach buying another with as much $$$ as I have lost on this one. Other side of the coin is maybe it is fixed now and will last years. Any opinions on what really is going on and what you would do would be appreciated.
 

tpenfield

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I have never thought that these engine warranties were worth anything. A lean condition would not cause the valve to go through the piston IMO. However, over-revving the engine could.

Not sure why you run at full throttle, but 4300 RPM is not excessive. I think you need to press the issue on the warranty, since their diagnosis and the failure do not seem to match.
 

alldodge

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If you are actually running the motor at that high rpm's it's a problem waiting to happen. Even if it didn't go over 4800, you shouldn't keep it there for very long. You need to verify the boat tach with a hand held tach one.

Only way to check for a lean condition on any motor is with an O2 sensor in the exhaust. If your first motor had a lean condition going on, then the replacement will have a bigger problem if it was a reman. The reman motor would be bored out and need more fuel to run correctly.

Floating a valve comes from to high rpm's, a lean motor will tulip the valve, not float it. To minimize valve float, double springs or higher tension ones are used.

If you are turning that high an rpm, you need to increase the pitch of your prop
 

uinthas7

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Dec 13, 2015
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I had the boat shop verify the tach, it was correct. If I only ran 4300 - 4400 rpm then I dont see how it blows the motor, its rated for 4800. Also very hard for me to believe every 3.0 mercruiser owner out there is not running wide open at 4800 rpm a fair amount of time without the same results.
 

Bondo

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The lag and sputter problem returned, but figured ok I need to have them look at the carb again, not a huge deal

Ayuh,.... That is a lean condition,....

Carbs basically have 3 circuits, Idle, low speed, 'n hi-speed,....

It could be rich in 2 circuits, yet lean in the 3rd,....
 

uinthas7

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In your opinion could a lean condition cause a valve to break off?
 

Bondo

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Ayuh,.... Detonation from a lean condition causes all sortsa Heat issues,....

Exhaust valves more so than intake valves, but intake valves are not immune,....
The heads can pop off, the stems can seize in the guides, or they can go tulip, gettin' to long, 'n contactin' the piston,....

Pistons, 'bout anywhere on the crown are very susceptible to excess heat, 'n either meltin' away, or big chunks bustin' off, or holes blowin' through the centers,....

Worst part is, it's really tough to "Hear" detonation in a boat, 'n the excess heat never shows on the temp gauge, 'cause it's such localized excess heat,....
 
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