Engine Pull and Distributor Replacement

itchyfishnv

Seaman
Joined
Aug 10, 2016
Messages
59
I built a gentry crane from HD w/ some 4x4's 10 feet tall, 9 feet wide with a 1 ton chain fall. I have everything disconnected and going to pull the engine tomorrow. Should I disconnect the front motor mount by pulling out the lag screws out of the stringer or disconnect the motor mount from the motor? The merc manual says to remove the lags, but im worried that the lags wont go in as tight when I drop the engine in next year. What your experience?

I'm having the engine rebuilt over the winter and wanted to get rid the points ignition and replace it w/ a EST delco ignition. Can someone verify if this would work w/ my 3.0? Its a 1987 w/ points.

https://www.perfprotech.com/30l-4-c...er-pn-481034-mp481034-mp481034/product/416529

Thanks in advance,

Nick
 
Last edited:

JASinIL2006

Vice Admiral
Joined
Feb 10, 2012
Messages
5,735
If you are not rebuilding the stringers, removing the lags will allow you to drop the motor in and align it with less fiddling (especially if you make sure the adjustment on the mounts aren't changed. Pulling the lags also will allow you to poke aroung in the the stringer/mounts and make sure the wood is still solid.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
50,745
use a few 2 x 8's or 2 x 10's standing on edge for the beam across the top of your gantry.
 

Scott06

Admiral
Joined
Apr 20, 2014
Messages
6,972
Just pull the lags, use a marine sealant like 3m 5200'when you reinstall. Yes that Delco est ignition will work, best stock replacement system.
 

itchyfishnv

Seaman
Joined
Aug 10, 2016
Messages
59
Thanks everyone. I have a 2x6 header on top of the 4x4 mated with plywood, so I'm hoping it will hold. Its also braced in every corner with 2x6's. I will pull it from the lags to inspect the stringers as mentioned above. Thanks for confirmation on the distributor. I'm hoping to get it pulled today. Thanks everyone.
 

itchyfishnv

Seaman
Joined
Aug 10, 2016
Messages
59
I pulled the drive off last night- but thanks for the tip :) I put it on its stand in the shed until spring time. I was able to get the engine out today using my home depot special gantry, header is about 10.5 feet high (just BARELY go it over the transom!). I purchased a chain fall from harbor freight and chained to the header, backed up the boat connected it to the chain, disconnected the 4 bolts and away it went. Yes, I disconnected fuel, exhaust, wiring, etc.Backed up my trailer, lowered it and now it's sitting the trailer waiting to get dropped off (if the rebuild price is right).

If I decided to buy a new engine I was told by my local marina that I would need to purchase a 12.75 inch fly wheel, an exhaust adapter (not sure why if im using my same manifold and riser) engine coupler and wire harness... any reason why I can't use my flywheel from my existing 3.0? I mean, theoretically couldn't I use every part needed from my existing 3.0? If not, (since you guys are not in the business to upsell me) what parts do I actually need to purchase to make a new engine run with my 87 A1. Thanks!

This is the marina I would be purchasing from: http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-0L-Base-E...ash=item281bf33eb2:g:G18AAOSwRS9Xf8TA&vxp=mtr

They are local to me.

Thanks in advance,
Nick
 
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