engine stalls at idle

[smtilford]

I don't have the model number for the new one off the top of my head, I will try to find that today for you, but here are some pictures of the old one, the new coil I installed, and the electronic conversion kit.

 

[midcarolina]

Have you checked your total timing?

 

[smtilford]

I pulled the valve cover off and made sure the valves on #1 cylinder were in the correct position according to the Seloc manual. The rotor was pointing at the #1 spark plug. I double checked my plugs to make sure they were all in the correct configuration.

 

[smtilford]

I forgot to mention that the raw water pump is leaking fairly badly, I ordered a new one that should be here this week. Could that cause motor symptoms?

 

[midcarolina]

Stting base timing is fine........ but you need to check total timing.....to make sure timing is advancing the proper amount, you have to either have a dial back timing light or put timing tape on the harmonic balancer.......... total timing on your motor should be about 24* if I remember correctly

Cant see how the water pump leaking would cause this issue........ although that too needs attention.

 

[smtilford]

Can you elaborate a bit more on the total timing? I am not following your statement very well. Thank you so much for your help! I am for sure going to be replacing the raw water pump, it should be here on the 13th.crazy how much they charge for a simple part!

 

[midcarolina]

With a dial back light you set the dial to the total advance you want, run the motor at the specified rpm and set timing mark to zero............... with timing tape you install the tape on the harmonic balancer with zero on balancer matched to zero on tape, then just use a regular timing light to verify your timing is advancing correctly..........

 

[smtilford]

Ok, cool, I will buy some timing tape tomorrow. Thank you! I will post my results.

 

[smtilford]

So I ordered a dial timing light, it should be here by weeks end. I am going to try to get the screws out of the old distributor, they are rusted in place and the heads are stripping...

 

[smtilford]

So after cutting the heads off the rusted screws and then using vice grips to remove the rest of the screws (I got lucky!) I wire-wheeled the whole distributor and then sprayed it with rustoleum and installed the ignitor II electronic plate and magnet. I am going to buy a 50 gallon rubbermaid bin tomorrow and pull the prop off, replace the distributor and run it t see if that has been my problem. I am still waiting on the dial timing light to arrive. I will let you know what I find!

 

[smtilford]

So I installed the rebuilt distributor, and it does not seem to be running any differently, I am waiting to have a friend come over to help me check the advanced timing, when I tried to do it myself it would not stay at 3000 rpm. It would lower to about 2000, and when I checked the timing at that rpm it was around 20 degrees. I sprayed carb cleaner around the carb and the engine sped up. I could hear a sucking sound around the carb area. I am currently soaking the carb in cleaner after I tore it apart. I bought a rebuild kit and plan to rebuild it this weekend. I hope to be able to enjoy the boat SOME time this year! I don't care if I am freezing my nuts off! I will update when I get the carb rebuilt and installed.