Engine Torque Specifications and procedures

ibrw1

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I'm ready to rebuild 2 engines, searching the web I find different procedures and values.
5.0L 1999
4.3 LX 1992
Is a web site available?

jim
 

ibrw1

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To answer Scott's question,

The 5.0, heads, intake, exhaust. Thermostat housing. Basically top end.
The 4.3, entire engine rebuild.
Thanks everyone for all the help
Jim
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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If you use stock GM fasteners, follow the manual. If you use ARP fasteners, follow ARP's torque spec
 

ibrw1

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Merry Christmas everyone,

Scott, please excuse my ignorance, the entire engine is 100% stock with the exception of World aftermarket cast iron heads. So if bolts are stock and heads are cast iron as before, then original torque settings are ok? As I understand it. The heads I'm putting on are heavier cast.
 

Rick Stephens

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Just a note, generally you should replace head bolt sets when rebuilding. They are so cheap as to make it a no brainer. They also will come pre-coated with a sealer to prevent corrosion.

Rick
 

ibrw1

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Boat done. Waiting for 50 degree day to take out and test. New heads, intake and 4BBL.


So, my Crownline 202 BR1999 5.0. is getting new 2kWatt stereo. I rewired with super heavy wire, I have 4 1000 CCA batteries. Normal stereo, old school music. Not ratteling buzz music. ALTERNATOR is serpentine 2 wire 65a. Looking at 120-220amp drop in. Any ideas?
 

alldodge

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So, my Crownline 202 BR1999 5.0. is getting new 2kWatt stereo. I rewired with super heavy wire, I have 4 1000 CCA batteries. Normal stereo, old school music. Not ratteling buzz music. ALTERNATOR is serpentine 2 wire 65a. Looking at 120-220amp drop in. Any ideas?

That's a whole new can of worms. First with four batteries you must plan on running the radio without the motor running for most the day. The 65AMP ALT can charge all the batteries and how long depends on how much they were drained. To change to a higher output ALT you will also need to replace the wire coming from the ALT to the starter post, also need to change the 90AMP fuse.
 

ibrw1

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Yes sir, I plan on using a fine threaded copper 6ga cable with high temp insulation. I really don't expect to play that loud or that often. But, if it can happen, it will happen. All The heavy wiring for the boat, will all be replaced. Cut to exact size, professionally installed fittings.
I need to see a schrink? I got new outdrive, carpet, gell coat is next. New rub rail. Just finished trailer, paint, rims, brakes and tires. I replaced soft deck.
I could sell this boat for 8 grand. It's worth much more. Is this a typical boater? I think I like throwing money in it more than boating. Looking back. I should have bought a wreck.
 

thumpar

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Jun 21, 2007
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2 ga is going a little bit overboard. Even 4 ga is more than what is needed in most cases. I used to run 2 700w (RMS) amps and only used 4 ga and that was about a 15' run.
 

ibrw1

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Sorry, what I meant was. I replaced all cables in boat. 2 ga is batteries to starter. Battery to battery. Was wondering if anyone knew of good alternator replacement
 

alldodge

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Adding four additional batteries is some weight and I would suggest putting some on each side to keep it even.

There are several marine 100+ AMP alt's out there, and many are what is called one wire. Your alt uses three wires (Output, power and sense), the sense wire goes directly back to the battery.

The one wire type is output and sense in one connection. To use this type the output wire has to go back to the start battery and cannot go thru an isolator. or anything else that can cause the alt to get a different reading.

The one wire alt's can be converted to a three wire by replacing the back cap with a connector. Just ask the place where you find the alt for the change plug.
 
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