eska golden jet 600

[tiger 650]

eska golden jet 600 I just bought it at a garage sale. it doesnt run so I need to fuss with it. it has spark and good compression so the carb is probly gummed up. I can fix that ok. can somebody tell me what year it is? modle 1146 serial 7879<br />it has a champion rj12yc spark plug. it really looks wrong.

 

[steelespike]

Re: eska golden jet 600

You have a 6 hp. 65.It uses a V58 Tecumseh<br />power head.My book lists a J8C plug..030 gap.<br />Points set to .020.<br /> Fuel mix is 16:1 TCW3 rated oil.

 

[Squeakit]

Re: eska golden jet 600

After you get the motor running, be sure to replace the water pump impeller before you take it out and try to use it. Power head is air-cooled, lower leg and exhaust are water-cooled. You'll fry it if your impeller goes out. Good luck!

 

[tabwb]

Re: eska golden jet 600

I also have an Eska Golden jet 600 that ran well -- except that I haven't used it in a couple of years and am now trying to bring it back to life. I'd like to replace the condenser & points as well as the spark plug but am having a hard time removing the flywheel to get to the condenser/points underneath. I removed the nut that holds the pull-start-pulley on top and hit the shaft with WD-40 as well as PB Blaster but it still doesn't budge. Is this thing held in by a clip or key that I'm not aware of? Shouldn't it just be a splined shaft that the flywheel is mated to?

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

I also plane to rebuild the carb so if you can recommend a place where I can order the rebuild kit, that would be great too!

Thanks in advance.

Wally Brunetti

 

[Tom @ Buzzard Bluff]

Re: eska golden jet 600

<I also have an Eska Golden jet 600 that ran well -- except that I haven't used it in a couple of years and am now trying to bring it back to life. I'd like to replace the condenser & points as well as the spark plug but am having a hard time removing the flywheel to get to the condenser/points underneath. I removed the nut that holds the pull-start-pulley on top and hit the shaft with WD-40 as well as PB Blaster but it still doesn't budge. Is this thing held in by a clip or key that I'm not aware of? Shouldn't it just be a splined shaft that the flywheel is mated to?>

NO! The flywheel and crankshaft are tapered and lock tightly together when the nut is properly torqued. The key between them is for alignment purposes ONLY. It isn't strong enough alone to withstand the torque loads between crank & flywheel.
You must use a puller to remove it. Do NOT attempt to use a 3 finger puller that engages the outer edge of the flywheel! You WILL ruin it. Auto parts stores and Horror Freight sell an inexpensive 'steering wheel/harmonic balancer' puller that works as it should. Just replace the bolts that screw into the flywheel with grade 8 bolts because they come with lower grade hardware. You will also need some way to prevent the flywheel from turning. Most of us just make a strap wrench from a length of scrap board and an old belt, but you must have some way to immobilize the flywheel when both loosening and re-torquing. Both the tapers---on flywheel & crank---must be clean and dry of grease or oil when re-torquing (I often lap them with a dab of 'Fine' valve grinding compound if they appear suspect---just be sure to remove ALL traces of it!) or they may shift in relation to each other under load. When that happens the key will shear and can ruin both flywheel and crank converting a good running outboard to scrap metal in a matter of seconds.

<I also plane to rebuild the carb so if you can recommend a place where I can order the rebuild kit, that would be great too!>

Any reputable small engine shop should have the carb parts as the engine was used in far more lawn & garden applications than in outboards.

BTW---if you have poor or no spark there's a more than even chance that you only need to thoroughly clean and re-gap the points. When re-set to specs drag a business card or strips of brown paper bag thru the points several times to remove any traces of oil as it acts as an insulator. Even your natural body oils from your fingertips can inhibit good ignition!

Don't forget to add a droplet or two of oil to the wick that lubes the point cam before replacing the flywheel!

Remember the old saying "Don't sweat the small stuff"? With small engines all the things that make them perform to top level ARE 'small stuff'. But you can learn them a LOT easier if you don't make the mistakes yourself. 'Old Farts' like myself and many others on this board have already went thru the 'learning experience' of poor performance and barked knuckles so pay attention to all the 'small stuff' we often cite. Tom

 

[tabwb]

Re: eska golden jet 600

Wow Tom - thanks for the great info. I remember using this motor more than a few times but the last time was at least 2 summers ago, maybe 3 so I'm sure i can get it moving again - especially with the great advice you've provided!

Thanks again,

Wally Brunetti

 

[tabwb]

Re: eska golden jet 600

<I also have an Eska Golden jet 600 that ran well -- except that I haven't used it in a couple of years and am now trying to bring it back to life. I'd like to replace the condenser & points as well as the spark plug but am having a hard time removing the flywheel to get to the condenser/points underneath. I removed the nut that holds the pull-start-pulley on top and hit the shaft with WD-40 as well as PB Blaster but it still doesn't budge. Is this thing held in by a clip or key that I'm not aware of? Shouldn't it just be a splined shaft that the flywheel is mated to?>

NO! The flywheel and crankshaft are tapered and lock tightly together when the nut is properly torqued. The key between them is for alignment purposes ONLY. It isn't strong enough alone to withstand the torque loads between crank & flywheel.
You must use a puller to remove it. Do NOT attempt to use a 3 finger puller that engages the outer edge of the flywheel! You WILL ruin it. Auto parts stores and Horror Freight sell an inexpensive 'steering wheel/harmonic balancer' puller that works as it should. Just replace the bolts that screw into the flywheel with grade 8 bolts because they come with lower grade hardware. You will also need some way to prevent the flywheel from turning. Most of us just make a strap wrench from a length of scrap board and an old belt, but you must have some way to immobilize the flywheel when both loosening and re-torquing. Both the tapers---on flywheel & crank---must be clean and dry of grease or oil when re-torquing (I often lap them with a dab of 'Fine' valve grinding compound if they appear suspect---just be sure to remove ALL traces of it!) or they may shift in relation to each other under load. When that happens the key will shear and can ruin both flywheel and crank converting a good running outboard to scrap metal in a matter of seconds.

<I also plane to rebuild the carb so if you can recommend a place where I can order the rebuild kit, that would be great too!>

Any reputable small engine shop should have the carb parts as the engine was used in far more lawn & garden applications than in outboards.

BTW---if you have poor or no spark there's a more than even chance that you only need to thoroughly clean and re-gap the points. When re-set to specs drag a business card or strips of brown paper bag thru the points several times to remove any traces of oil as it acts as an insulator. Even your natural body oils from your fingertips can inhibit good ignition!

Don't forget to add a droplet or two of oil to the wick that lubes the point cam before replacing the flywheel!

Remember the old saying "Don't sweat the small stuff"? With small engines all the things that make them perform to top level ARE 'small stuff'. But you can learn them a LOT easier if you don't make the mistakes yourself. 'Old Farts' like myself and many others on this board have already went thru the 'learning experience' of poor performance and barked knuckles so pay attention to all the 'small stuff' we often cite. Tom

OK - so I checked the top of the flywheel and there are no bolts there (pic to follow when I get home later). It seems the only way to remove it is to use a 3-prong gear puller...which I have handy.
More details in my next post - along with (hopefully) a pic...

Wally

 

[Tom @ Buzzard Bluff]

Re: eska golden jet 600

OK - so I checked the top of the flywheel and there are no bolts there (pic to follow when I get home later). It seems the only way to remove it is to use a 3-prong gear puller...which I have handy.
More details in my next post - along with (hopefully) a pic...

DON'T DO THAT!

The flywheel itself is a soft metal casting with a steel bushing cast in place for the crankshaft and the magnet cast in place in the outer circumference. That soft metal casting WILL bend if you use a 3 finger outside puller with enough pressure applied to make the taper release. Not every time it's true but a long way from being worth the gamble!

Many makers didn't pre-drill the flywheel for a proper puller but they did leave 3 casting marks spaced equidistant around the hole for the crankshaft that make it easy for anyone to drill and tap it for a puller.

There are many other methods of removing a flywheel. If convenient ask your local small engine specialist or get him to do it.

You can readily make a flywheel 'knocker' from hardware store components by buying a nut that fits the crankshaft and the shortest bolt on the shelf that fits it. Thread the nut onto the crankshaft half way of the threads in the nut and then thread the short bolt into the nut until it seats against the crankshaft. Tighten them together slightly. Then have an assistant hold the motor up by putting his fingers underneath the outer edge of the flywheel. At that point give the short bolt a sharp tap with a hammer. Done just right the flywheel with pop off the crank taper and you're 'home free'.

 

[tabwb]

Re: eska golden jet 600

Once again, thanks for your advice Tom. Looks like this Eska will not go quietly...

I'll try the nut-and-bolt method first before i drill and tap those three casting markers that key into the flange on top. Wish me luck!!!

On second thought - if the nut/bolt thing doesn't work I think I'll bring it into a shop for professional help. I can find my way around car engines pretty good but 45-year-old marine motors are not my forte (Eska model 1146, serial #10575, Mfg. circa 1965).

I'll be sure to let you know how I make out and thanks again!!!

Wally

 

[Tom @ Buzzard Bluff]

Re: eska golden jet 600

Hang in there! You WILL succeed. Just be aware that you'll need the helper to hold up on the flywheel. That is necessary since it takes up the tiny amount of end-play on the crank that makes it possible for the shock of the hammer blow to work. And you can't do both alone!

I normally remove and separate the points and polish them to a high sheen on a piece of worn-out 400 grit wet or dry paper if they appear to be in otherwise good condition.
If points have pits on one side and corresponding high spots on the other I take it as a sign that the condenser isn't functioning properly and replace both points and condenser. Otherwise I just clean EVERYTHING---including the mag plate---to eliminate dirt/grease pathways for ignition to 'leak' to ground.
On old engines that have just sat for years the points develop a virtually invisible film (probably a type of corrosion peculiar to the metal) that acts as a very effective insulator that prevents good electron flow. So polishing them as described above is one of my cardinal rules in reviving veterans.
So don't allow appearances to fool you! Just clean them as a matter of course any time you have the flywheel off.

 

[tabwb]

Re: eska golden jet 600

Got it. Now you know what's in my Labor Day Weekend plans. I greatly appreciate all of your help and don't plan to give up. I've used this motor on and off since the late seventies and would like to be able to have it available whenever needed. When I couldn't get it started late last summer I figured it was high time I gave it some TLC - something I had not done at all during the proceeding 30 or so years. Paint, carb rebuild, plug, points, condenser, fuel lines and some fine tuning were on the schedule....and still are for the most part!!

Wally

 

[Tom @ Buzzard Bluff]

Re: eska golden jet 600

Got it. Now you know what's in my Labor Day Weekend plans. I greatly appreciate all of your help and don't plan to give up. I've used this motor on and off since the late seventies and would like to be able to have it available whenever needed. When I couldn't get it started late last summer I figured it was high time I gave it some TLC - something I had not done at all during the proceeding 30 or so years. Paint, carb rebuild, plug, points, condenser, fuel lines and some fine tuning were on the schedule....and still are for the most part!!Wally

Almost 30 years of faithful service without any love! Yet people bad-mouth Eska products with the belittling opprobrium of 'lawnmower-on-a-stick'!

Thanks for the pics, They brought up a question for you but I'll send you a PM about it.

The 30 year comment made me realize that we haven't discussed your L/U yet. (Watch it!) It is my personal opinion that the seals in the Eska/Clinton L/Us were their real 'feet of clay'. In short I have been quite fortunate so far in finding no Tecumseh powerheads that weren't solid as a rock but I can't say the same for L/Us! I have both a 7 horse and a 5 1/2 that run great that are awaiting L/Us as I type. So far I've struck out locally but if anyone reading this has good L/Us to sell cheap I'm 'all ears'!

So check your L/U before you get too heavily invested---financially OR emotionally---in the rest of the rebuild. Perhaps simply because the least expensive on the market Eskas were often entry level outboards for boaters with no experience the 'out of sight, out of mind' lower units just weren't checked often---or at all! And in my experience the original seals weren't effective for as long as those on 'higher priced spreads'. That combination of circumstances seems to have combined to lead to a LOT of bad L/Us---at least here. Tom

 

[tabwb]

Re: eska golden jet 600

L/U huh! I'll use some logic and say that refers to the lower unit (told you I'm not a "marine" guy). To be honest, I never gave the L/U a thought - guess I'd better now. Let me get the thing running first and then I can consult some experts in the field about what needs to be done "down there." By the way, I did some internet investigating and stumbled upon "Brix Enterprises" - he/they seem to be well versed in Eskas so you might want to check them out if you haven't already:

http://home.earthlink.net/~brixent/

Wally

 

[tabwb]

Re: eska golden jet 600

OK Tom - I finally got around to removing the flywheel with the help of a friend - used the method you recommended and found a nut with the same threads, screwed in a bolt down to the top of the spindle and held the unit by the flywheel as my buddy tapped on the bolt. It came apart after a few minutes and some PB Blaster.

Once the warmer weather arrives here in NJ I'll tackle the carb, condenser, points rebuild and then pay some attention to the Lower Unit. This is obviously a "work in progress" so I'll keep you posted as I move along.

Thanks again for your help and great advice!

Wally

L/U huh! I'll use some logic and say that refers to the lower unit (told you I'm not a "marine" guy). To be honest, I never gave the L/U a thought - guess I'd better now. Let me get the thing running first and then I can consult some experts in the field about what needs to be done "down there." By the way, I did some internet investigating and stumbled upon "Brix Enterprises" - he/they seem to be well versed in Eskas so you might want to check them out if you haven't already:

http://home.earthlink.net/~brixent/

Wally

 

[Tom @ Buzzard Bluff]

Re: eska golden jet 600

<OK Tom - I finally got around to removing the flywheel with the help of a friend - used the method you recommended and found a nut with the same threads, screwed in a bolt down to the top of the spindle and held the unit by the flywheel as my buddy tapped on the bolt. It came apart after a few minutes and some PB Blaster.>

Excellent! Now you can make progress!

<Once the warmer weather arrives here in NJ I'll tackle the carb, condenser, points rebuild and then pay some attention to the Lower Unit. This is obviously a "work in progress" so I'll keep you posted as I move along.>

I drained my test tank months ago---BEFORE it froze solid this year! It has been a particularly cold and dreary Winter here in the foothills of the Ozarks of North central Ark. so for me outboards have been consigned to the backburner and I've been using my shop time to pursue my other hobby of 'fooling around' with airguns. Not air tools but the pellet shooting kind. I've been doing that much longer than messing about with outboards. I get the same kind of satisfaction out of reviving a 40-100 year old airgun as I do resuscitating outboards and hearing one bark again is much the same thrill for me as hearing a revived outboard purring in delight.

Thanks to mrcrabs for alerting me to your post. Tom

 

[jlschmitz]

Re: eska golden jet 600

Thanks to the posters here I was able to learn some valuable details about my Eska 1146 that I found at a garage sale a few years ago.

Can anyone tell me the value or the component part number of the condenser on the Eska 1146. My experience with electronic components tells me that it probably needs replacing.
-Jeff

 

[mrcrabs]

Re: eska golden jet 600

Welcome to Iboats,
Hey you hijacked a 8yr old post and thats not good, but since it was already hijacked last year and you were so nice in asking I will give you a link for a replacement part
http://www.boatsportandtackle.com/servlet/the-ESKA--dsh--Sears--fdsh--Ted-Wms/s/101/Categories

 

[alanredden]

Re: eska golden jet 600

i have an eska golden jet 600 that just wont start its getn spark and fuel to carb but just wont start could it be the rings are gone or bad? please help id like to get it running befor summer.