Evinrude 115 SPL Fresh Rebuild and a Near Heart Attack

[TrevorRZ]

Long time lurker, first time poster and here's what I have going on: (Forgive me if I'm a bit long-winded, I'll put a TL/DR summary at the bottom)

Last Summer I bought my very first boat: a 99' Larson SEi Ski and Fish with a 115 Evinrude SPL. When I first got the boat, it was running a little rough; it wouldn't idle the best, would die when I put it into gear, seemed to "miss" here and there. I chalked this up to old gas and maybe it needed a carb cleaning that I was going to do over the winter.

The third time I had it out, the rings failed on cylinder #4. A little PO'ed, I saved up my cash and had the powerhead rebuilt over the winter (also had the carbs cleaned, impeller replaced, drained the old gas, and cleaned the gas lines) The first time I took it out after the rebuild (to break it in) the thing ran like a top. I followed the break-in procedure that the mechanic and Wiseco recommended to a T (Mix gas 25:1, first 4 hours was only at idle, then the next hour was at 1,500 rpm, the next hour, no more than 3,000 rpm, then 4 more hours at 3/4 throttle occasionally bringing it up to WOT for less than two mins).

Anyway, I was in my 8th hour or so of break in and I was going to bring it up WOT. It was running great for about a min at WOT and I was trimming the motor up to get it to plane out when it completely bogged down and died. I heard that sound before and feared for the worst. I go to turn the key and it won't turn over...as in, I heard the starter click, but the engine wouldn't turn. I hit the key again and at least hear the engine turn, but no spark. At this point, I'm 100% panicking as I was in the middle of the lake with a potentially blown up engine and the sun was going down. I hit the key one last time and the engine starts up, I let it idle for a second but when I put it in gear, it died (same as it was doing before I had it rebuilt). I tried once more and was able to get it into gear and brought it back to the dock (I didn't exceed 3000 RPM on my return trip. The engine did sound a bit "rougher" than it did before but this could just be my imagination as I was feeling kinda bummed out about my fresh rebuild.

I get back to the landing and let her idle at the dock while I back in the trailer. She was idling fine when I got back but as soon as I tried to put it in gear again, I ran into the same issue of it dying. I was finally able to get it in gear after about 4-5 attempts and got her loaded up.

Does anyone have any idea what's going on here? I'm planning on taking it out tomorrow to see if it's still running rough. I had a big weekend on the water planned with the family and I want to make sure everything is in working order before I have kids on the boat.

TL/DR: After running perfectly fine, my motor died suddenly about 8 hours into break in procedure. Started back up after a bit of a struggle with it not turning over but now it likes to die once I put it into gear out of idle. It has new gas, freshly cleaned carbs, new water impeller, seems to "pee" just fine.

Any thoughts and input would be greatly appreciated.

 

[interalian]

I'd start by pulling the plugs and have a look - see if they're all the same.

 

[ondarvr]

Test the compression.

 

[flyingscott]

All of the above and was the water pump replaced at all during this rebuild. Wiseco also doesn't say to idle it for 4 hrs
This is wisecos break in recommendation

Outboard engines are very unique, in that the cooling system uses cold water from the lake or ocean. Because of this, the engine cylinder runs very cool as compared to many other engine types, and the piston does require more clearance to operate properly. Your Wiseco piston does have this additional clearance built into the design, and it is always best to follow the proper break in process. This is an extended process of heat cycling of the engine, and will ensure an extended piston life when followed. Refer to your OEM service manual for the proper break in for your engine, or you can also refer to our Marine catalog for general guidelines.

 

[TrevorRZ]

All of the above and was the water pump replaced at all during this rebuild. Wiseco also doesn't say to idle it for 4 hrs
This is wisecos break in recommendation

Outboard engines are very unique, in that the cooling system uses cold water from the lake or ocean. Because of this, the engine cylinder runs very cool as compared to many other engine types, and the piston does require more clearance to operate properly. Your Wiseco piston does have this additional clearance built into the design, and it is always best to follow the proper break in process. This is an extended process of heat cycling of the engine, and will ensure an extended piston life when followed. Refer to your OEM service manual for the proper break in for your engine, or you can also refer to our Marine catalog for general guidelines.

Yes, the water pump was replaced. I don't think the cooling is the problem as it pisses just fine and the water coming out of it was cool.
From Wiseco's catalog (and what was given to me by the mechanic):

Engine Break-in procedure for rebuilt Power Heads NOTE The first 10 hours are the most important hours of your new engine's life. Some OEM break-in procedures may vary from these guidelines - Always refer to the OEM service manual for the most model specific break-in procedures and guidelines. Engine Oil & Fuel ? Double the oil quantity with an approved TCW-3 oil. ? Use 91 to 94 octane premium fuel. ? Avoid products that have alcohol additives, or chemicals that may alter the fuel condition. Initial Break-in & Warm-up Allow four hours for break-in of a new piston and/or rings at idle speed only. For first 10 hours, avoid continuous full throttle. Liquid cooled engines require that the engine be brought to normal operation temperatures to avoid cold seizure that results from the piston expanding faster than the cylinder liner (which is being liquid cooled). RPM Guidelines ? For the fifth hour and a half after warm up, operate the engine in gear approximately 1,500 RPM for the first twenty minutes. ? For the remaining forty minutes, operate the engine in gear no more than three thousand RPM. ? Use only enough throttle to plane the boat, then immediately throttle back to less than three thousand RPM. ? For the sixth hour, accelerate enough to bring the boat up on plane quickly, and bring the throttle back to maintain the boat up on plane. During this period, vary your engine speed by accelerating to three fourths throttle for a minute or two, then back to minimum planning speed. Do NOT run at constant RPM for prolonged periods of time. For the next four hours of operation, continue to cruise at approximately three fourths throttle or less at minimum planning speed. Occasionally reduce the throttle to idle speed for the cooling period. During the final hours, you may operate the boat at wide open throttle for periods of less than two minutes.

[/QUOTE]

 

[flyingscott]

Take the motor back to who rebuilt it should be warrantied.

 

[Faztbullet]

Sounds like it "popped" again....didnt fix the original problem only repaired the results of the problem.

 

[TrevorRZ]

Update: Also, thanks for all the replies!

Pulled out the plugs last night and they looked fine. A bit of oil on them (which is to be expected mixing gas at 25:1) and a good shade of brown.

I put the muffs on her and she started up right away. I let it idle for a few mins and everything seemed to run perfectly. The compression tester I borrowed was broken so I wasn't able to get a compression test on her though.

Going out tonight on a small lake to see how it works. I have the trolling motor all charged up in case of the worse.

 

[TrevorRZ]

Sounds like it "popped" again....didnt fix the original problem only repaired the results of the problem.

Wouldn't it not run at all if it were "popped?" I had it going last night on the muffs and it started right up and idled perfectly for about 5-6 mins before I shut it off.

 

[ondarvr]

Cylinder walls can be scored and rings can be damaged and sometimes it can still sort of run OK, especially on muffs, it'll run much different in the water under load

 

[TrevorRZ]

I'll get another compression tester and throw it on before I head out this afternoon.

 

[rothfm]

Post results, that description certainly sounds like ring problem.

 

[TrevorRZ]

So, I'm baffled.

I didn't get a compression tester on it but I did take it out last night in a small lake. It started and ran like the day it was made. I didn't have any issues with it dying when I put it into gear ot it running rough after warm up.

The good news is that my motor runs as advertised. The bad news is that I have no idea what caused it to die at WOT.

 

[Faztbullet]

Called a cold seize due to cooling system not working properly such a t-stats bad, the piston expands faster than the cylinder and the piston skirt galds itself to cylinder wall due to clearance issue.This is why I don't not use a forged piston as they expand faster than a cast one.

 

[TrevorRZ]

Called a cold seize due to cooling system not working properly such a t-stats bad, the piston expands faster than the cylinder and the piston skirt galds itself to cylinder wall due to clearance issue.This is why I don't not use a forged piston as they expand faster than a cast one.

Gotcha. I've been doing some research on replacing the tstat on these things. Sounds like it's going to be a nightmare (v4 bubbleback).

Is this something that needs immediate attention? I had it out all weekend and it ran perfectly (still haven't really brought it up to WOT since I'm still breaking it in).

 

[ondarvr]

Do not run it until you get it figured out, a compression test is the first thing you should do.

 

[TrevorRZ]

Ran a compression test tonight. All four cylinders were within 5psi of eachother.

 

[Faztbullet]

A compression test wont show scuff damage, all a compression test show is that cylinders has enough compression to support combustion. I have see plenty of worn out engines with "good" compression.