Evinrude 1988 15 hp electric starter nutural safty switch e15eccs

[thatone123]

I have a really nice condition 1988 electric start outboard. I go into remote areas in the North bush country and need to bomb proof my outboards. I can't have a motor that has the starter lockout or natural safety switch as it makes the outboard had to start in cool/cold weather so first thing I do when I get a newer one is disconnect these. This is my only electric start model with the switch under the large plastic lockout device that jams the stator plate so that the throttle can not be turned past a low rpm point. All of this is on the port side looking back from the front of the outboard. I took out the lockout plastic device as usual and the motor would not start. Can I disconnect this switch that us under there and still start the motor?

 

[kbait]

The neutral safety switch for the electric starter has two wires connected to it. One side receives 12v from depressed start button, the other delivers that 12v to starter motor when neutral button is depressed. To disable neutral safety switch and still have electric start, simply connect those 2 wires together.

 

[racerone]

Are those switches not on the starboard side of the motor ?----Those 2 switches are the same I believe.

 

[thatone123]

Thanks Kb...After looking at it closer I came to the same conclusion...BUT...it is great to have that confirmed as I don't want to fry anything. So I guess I can just connect them on the motors fuse box same place where the Neutral Safety switch wires were connected...right? R1 If you are looking from the back they would be on the starboard side, if looking from the front the port. Also, I noticed that this motor has the fuel line coming out of the block near where the NSS is with the fuel pump on the other side of the block. Why is this and what purpose does it serve? All the ones I have even seen have the fuel pump on the left side if you are looking at the outboard from the front and the long fuel hose going around to the other side. R1, yes the switches look very similar.

 

[racerone]

And all along I thought that port and starboard was the same whether you looked from the back or the front of the motor !!!----Are you sure you understand the concept of " port " and " starboard " or I am going crazy here ?----Whereabouts is this " North bush country "-----Name of the nearest city / town ?

 

[kbait]

I believe red wires at wire block are only for battery charging..leave them be. Just connect the 2wires on the safety switch together.

 

[thatone123]

R1 I knew it....Yes, on a ship that is true, but this is a motor. You could say port or starboard, but no one would know what you meant. Would not right or left change depending on where you stand in relation to the motor. The North Bush Country is where you are not I guess. Chill Dude! Where are you? KB, These switch wires were on that terminal block, (not a fuse block) so I put the wires there, seems to work fine. The various connections or Buss are not grounded but isolated from each other. Thanks.

 

[flyingscott]

Why are you eliminating the switch? I have an electric start 77 model and it is by far the best starting motor 15 I have. It is the only one I use in cold weather for.my duck hunting.

 

[thatone123]

I have had duck hunting problems with starting my mid 80's models in below 30 degree weather and especially in the 20's. I just hate NSS and the red gizmo that blocks the manual starter. I cut that red sucker out with a Dremel and a very sharp wood chisel. A real pain, but lovely when it is done. More than a few I have talked too complain about how you can't hardly turn the throttle to start. I know some gorillas I have let use these as I'm a waterfowl guide up North that get frustrated and twist the plastic handle almost off the arm. They think the outboard is broke Yes, they work as designed most of the time until they don't then the cussin' begins.

 

[flyingscott]

Sounds like something wrong with your motors. Money have all been run down to 0 degrees with no problems.

 

[thatone123]

Another thing I'd like to ad, maybe it can help someone is that when a lot of outboards sit never used for long periods of time they may be in very good condition but make sure you check plastic parts for cracks due to old age. I noticed that this outboard would go from a lower rpm to pretty high when throttle was turned. I mistook it for a carb jet problem and used it like that. When I got into this switch problem I noticed that the plastic throttle cam in these outboards had cracked and part of it fell off. There is a plastic sheve around the throttle cam I guess that makes the older style thicker as on the 88 the carb is the Mexico made plastic top model carb. This outboard is almost NOS (New Old Stock) and like new. But plastic being what it is get old and brittle. You can't do enough preventive maintenance on outboards! If that sheve had completely come off and it would have down the line, I might have been stranded or stuck on a crawl idle of maybe a mile an hour.

 

[thatone123]

I meant that the motor would JUMP from low to high, not a smooth transition.