Experienced boat painter?s advice PLEASE?

[crashkaloop]

Not that general opinions aren't great, but I need advice from those who have actually painted or refinished boats. Whether wet sanded and re-coated, complete color change, or new gel coat, I could really use some practical advice on how to proceed.

I just bought a 1987 Ranger with the usual metal flake color scheme. Everything below the rub rail is nearly perfect. Good bright color, no damage, no chips, no flakes, and no peeling. Just really nice.

The top however is a different story! It is severely faded, checked, cracked, peeling, etc. I guess the usual story for this type of boat. Here are some pictures with some questions that I hope some of you have some suggestions for.

These first pictures show (I hope) the cracking of what I would call a clear coat on the rails of the deck. Now, I am not sure if this is a clear gel coat, or some other clear that has been applied, but in some spots, I can peel small sections of this up and it is a clear of some sort (although it has yellowed somewhat). I really suspect that this is a clear gel coat that was used in the original mold lay-up. Any thoughts?


Now, beneath that is what I deem to be the actual metal flake paint/gel coat, which also has cracks in some areas where the clear has been gone completely for some length of time.


Now, I know that some of you will ask if I can feel the metal flakes protruding from the surface, and the answer is that I can?t. But, I suspect that if I wet sanded some of that clear off in some areas, I probably could.

I would love to hear some experienced advice on how to proceed to make a practical repair of the entire topside of this boat, with the following in mind:

1) I will not spend $1,000
2) I will do as many hours of work as necessary
3) I am a reasonably proficient ?do-it-yourself-er? (look it up):lol:
4) I am not looking for perfection, but rather a practical solution
5) The boat will be garaged for the rest of its life or mine (whichever comes first)
6) I have a well equipped shop
7) I can, and do, follow directions well

What I would really like to do if it is possible, is to wet sand the clear off, and re-apply some automotive or Awlgrip type of clear. This would seem to be the easiest solution and would make the boat look original. I guess this would only work if the clear would go over the metal flake and flow properly. I wouldn't mind having to sand between many coats of clear if necessary.

Hope some of you have some recommendations for me?

Thanks

 

[DeepBlue2010]

Re: Experienced boat painter?s advice PLEASE?

This could be of interest to you

http://forums.iboats.com/boat-resto...coat-issue-i-need-little-guidance-614488.html

 

[crashkaloop]

Re: Experienced boat painter?s advice PLEASE?

Thanks DeepBlue, After reading that, I think my first step will be to get some Fiberglass Paint Remover and try an area. If this is indeed paint and not get coat, this stripper may get me to the glass where I can make a more informed decision.

From reading that thread, it seems if the metal flakes are protruding, I may be sol, but I really don't quite understand why? I would think that enough clear and sanding would encase those flakes, and all would be good. Can any one explain why the flakes themselves would be a problem?

 

[zool]

Re: Experienced boat painter?s advice PLEASE?

Thanks DeepBlue, After reading that, I think my first step will be to get some Fiberglass Paint Remover and try an area. If this is indeed paint and not get coat, this stripper may get me to the glass where I can make a more informed decision.

From reading that thread, it seems if the metal flakes are protruding, I may be sol, but I really don't quite understand why? I would think that enough clear and sanding would encase those flakes, and all would be good. Can any one explain why the flakes themselves would be a problem?

From what i understand, when a boat is built in a mold, a release agent is laid 1st, then clear gel, then flake, then a solid color pigmented gel, then glass.
The layer of flake is not that deep and when trying to get the surface prepped properly to hold the clear paint, voids in the flake are created, thus ruining the evenly coated flake finish. Then its solid paint time.

If the flake isnt poking thru, there is a shot at sanding the remaining clear gel, for the clear paint to adhere to...

 

[gm280]

Re: Experienced boat painter?s advice PLEASE?

There are ways to actually spray true metal flake finishes (not perilized like so many of today's car are painted), but it requires special sprayer guns capable of constantly mixing the flake to keep it uniformed and not settling out in the bottom of the gun while spraying...AND unusually large tip sizes to be able to spray the flakes out. Not something I would want to try for a first flake finish. But I think I could use some quality AU catalyzed clear paint and build up the finish to be able to block sand it out and make it look new again... I could be wrong, but I'd have to prove that to myself one way or the other...

 

[crashkaloop]

Re: Experienced boat painter?s advice PLEASE?

For me, trying to spray metal flake is out of the question. The truth is, I would rather have this whole boat white, because the darker original color gets very hot and is uncomfortable to the bare skin. The only reason to keep the original color scheme is if it can be made to look good with less work than a complete new paint job.

Painting above the rub rail in solid white, matching the bottom of the hull, is also an option I am considering. This would leave a little of the fancy stuff on the sides, and might look OK too.