EXPERT!!!

[jrttoday]

Built or rebuilt, renovate, transform?.who cares? Semantics, this what I did and again, who cares? lol An expert I am not. An X is a has been and a Spurt is a drip! I began welding professionally in 1976 and began as a Journeyman Pipe Welder in 1981 ? just saying. I took on this project never having more than street knowledge of a boat. With the help of Iboats forums I was able to build this; even though in the eyes of some, it isn?t much, if it is even that - but who cares? This boat does all I need it to do and then some. Am not posting for show, only to inspire others; if I can do it?..
Not an internet wizard, either, and I type around 12wpm lol ? might take a few days to get these few pictures up!

 

[jrttoday]

No Title

supported the hull on 6x6's allowing it to sag for conformity. Weighting the stringers as they were glued to the hull really paid off, you'll see that later

 

[jrttoday]

No Title

working w/o a plan is not advisable!! But things eventually fell into place. Thought the boat was an old Terry? Had no mnf plate etc, later found out on here that Terry had sold some of their molds when they went out of business - it's an outlaw hull, had the Marine Police come out to issue HIN#.
I figured a 40 or 50 horse would be enough, but.....the price was right!
Went back and ripped 2x4's to the bottom and encapsulated alongside the 1x4's. This maneuver not only added strength, I got some more mileage out of that expensive a** floatation foam. Seems like I used the 2lb density? but poured the aft 6' in cooler weather which made it set rock hard, perfect. It isn't a pad boat, but that 100 gets it riding high. 1/2" marine plywood w/stainless screws into the stringers; and the plywood is glassed over the seams and resin over the rest.
Air pockets in glass on stringers were taken care before getting this far. Hey, it was my first time with glass.

 

[jrttoday]

No Title

went back to a boat salvage yard to see if I could find a splashwell already formed; after looking around a bit the proprietor says there's a bass boat out there I can HAVE if I take it today - he needs the trailer it's on. SOLD!!! Couldn't get home and back fast enough, luckily, it wasn't to wide for the trailer I'd bought (was planning to modify it later anyway). Deck,seats, and hull were good; but everything else was toast. Was rated for a 150, too much beam for me and was too far along with other.
Bought two of a 1/2"x6"x16' and raised the gunwales from zero to 4" at the transom

 

[gm280]

jrttoday, first time I've seen your project. But seems you have read some other projects on here because you seem to have it all figured out nicely. Keep posting your progress and nice project... :thumb:

 

[alldodge]

Was the original stringers made from 2x lumber?

 

[jbcurt00]

Resin alone is of little value on the plywood deck. Unless it was epoxy

 

[jigngrub]

Resin alone is of little value on the plywood deck. Unless it was epoxy

Yeah, and that decking needs to be tabbed to the hull as well.... but other than that the work looks real good.

 

[hadaveha]

Looking good I wish we had a boat salvage yard close to here

 

[jrttoday]

thanks a livewell full to all y'all!!!!!!!!! and I mean that! Without the posts of members here@ iboats, I would never have been able. This project was christened on 11/15/11; began early Jan 2010.
Employment almost non-existent for several years; my income/outgo ratio..... you can imagine, or hopefully not..... wow. And with a boat, are you ever finished??
I'm not into bells and whistles - they don't catch fish or take away the challenge. And work finally interrupted my life.... again! lol
more pics coming, just have to find them on this computer; and finding the letters with correct punctuation.... Not stupid, just never learned this and have more important things going on

 

[jrttoday]

and epoxy, of course! my terminology. Never learned the glassing lingo, I say resin when I don't use fiber.

 

[jigngrub]

, I say resin when I don't use fiber.

There are 2 types of resin. Polyester resin which is weak and has to be reinforced with fiberglass cloth or matt, and epoxy resin that is strong enough to be used alone. They are both two part resins and some people don't realize the difference between the two.

 

[jrttoday]

No Title

Like said, "having a plan is advisable", but I had none consciously. Other than I had to do something to keep from going stir crazy - and this was the only thing I wanted to do lol. Taking a break from the fumes!, pulled it outside to begin fitting the trailer. Robbed the overkill axle off of my 12' aluminum; turned it into a 2" drop axle, narrowed and lowered the trailer I used, new bunks etc etc.
I NEVER PLANNED on going this far; for certain had no intentions of painting the hull. And it needed painting.
Burnt up a Dewalt 4" grinder taking it down to bare fiberglass. a couple yo anyway. Who cares!! We will sacrifice anything in the pursuit of fishes!!
What they don't tell about epoxy primer is that you might as well forget about sanding it out.... ever!
Some say "overkill"; one kit wasn't quite enough, so I bought two and had some left over. Forget about self life, had plenty leftover. Ended up with five coats on the bottom and 6 or so inches up. Three coats up to the gunwale extensions, and one on those.

 

[jigngrub]

. Taking a break from the fumes!,.

If you're talking about the resin fumes, that would be polyester resin and it needs to have the glass cloth or matt reinforcing that you don't have on your decking.

 

[jrttoday]

good point Mr jigngrub!! I didn't use matt on the floor (did everywhere else) as I only wanted a water barrier over the 1/2 marine plywood; which was flush mounted to the stringers.Painted over w/Kill's mixed w/blue tint for glare reduction and sprinkled w/sand. Maynot be waterproof but have great drainage and a 1,200gpm bilge pump. I've seen 7" or more an hour out in the swamp. Carpet in boats gets nasty and I regret using that BS outdoor carpet on some lids and rear casting deck because it's great for snagging treble hooks.
A good cartridge respirator plus fans helped, but fumes still lingered awhile.

 

[jrttoday]

No Title

I really had no intention of painting this thing; I'd rather lose my favorite rod than to paint. But the top deck looked so good after I cleaned it a little, I had no choice.
In 1972, horsepower was rated at the crank - 100 is really 85 to 88 at the prop. No matter, this hull was probably originally rated at 35/40hp?
The boat the deck came off of was rated for 150hp and had 2x4's that resembled Cream of Wheat! Which is some why I opted to go heavy, everywhere. It's hard to remember, but my stringers may have been 3/4" x 4"? Basically, my boat was experimental.
Back to the paint, because of the power I chose a textured bottom paint as opposed to something hard and slick. Not your typical performance hull, handling at speeds is critical. I once owned an 18' Skeeter with a 150 Black Max, 70mph empty @WOT; this is not that. Been clocked at 45mph, loaded and two adults. My need for speed only exists in an emergency, like the Bass are biting and I'm late!!! The rest of the species don't rate that high lol.
I cannot paint, HATE every aspect of it! But dammit man! That Petit HydroCoat @$100 a gallon did it's own thing - plus tips I got from iboats contributors. And that textured finish (I believe) helps me turning

 

[jigngrub]

If you'll put a tire tread finish on the bottom of that boat the turns will be even easier!

Actually, a porous bottom finish is supposed to go faster than a slick bottom, something about riding on a cushion of air bubbles instead of pushing water.

 

[jrttoday]

don't think I'll try that. It really seems to grip, more than I would have thought? Didn't know that about ablative paint. Light load and good conditions, she'll get out of the water enough to let ya know - slow down, don't need to push it.
What did you mean about tabbing the deck/floor?

 

[jrttoday]

No Title

No project is complete unless at some time you had that "change your shorts/heart attack moment! Followed by that BIG SIGH of relief upon seeing nothing was damaged except for the broken rafter! I swear I reinforced it before the first lift; guess that paint was heavier than I thought! That sucker got heavy after the epoxy primer. I could no longer lift the stern by hand, which I shouldn't be doing anyway!

 

[jbcurt00]

Didn't know that about ablative paint.

Ablative paint is something entirely different, and NOT what Jig was suggesting to create an air cushion. And I doubt there's a single boat posted on iboats that would benefit, in a noticeable way, from the reduced friction of having a rough finish on the bottom of the hull.

Light load and good conditions, she'll get out of the water enough to let ya know - slow down, don't need to push it.

Does this mean you put the 100hp outboard on the back of this boat that you 'think' is rated for a 40hp+/-?

What did you mean about tabbing the deck/floor?

Perhaps some reading is in order:
Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms
Lots of good info in here, dig around, might save yourself some money, time, headaches and problems that might be dire.

Originally, the deck of the boat was attached to the hull sides w/ fiberglass and polyester resin. Or TABBED to the hull sides.