faded out paint

abner

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Mar 15, 2010
Messages
37
i have a 1994 stratos bass boat and the paint is faded on the top and i was wondering what is the best way to try and fix this
 

crazy charlie

Vice Admiral
Joined
May 22, 2003
Messages
5,594
Re: faded out paint

have you tried poloshing compound followed by a quality polish.Charlie
 

Pintail58

Cadet
Joined
Feb 28, 2011
Messages
17
Re: faded out paint

So long as your clear isn't chipping , go with a quality compound way on a buffer. I've brought many "faided paint" boats back to looking pretty much new. On a stratos you have gel coat not paint. This gel coat is under your clear. If the compound wax doesn't do it you can try wet sanding it a little. other than that , if it's too far gone you may be looking at sanding to the gelcoat and reclearing.
 

Bondo

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Apr 17, 2002
Messages
71,148
Re: faded out paint

i have a 1994 stratos bass boat and the paint is faded on the top and i was wondering what is the best way to try and fix this

Ayuh,... Paint it....
 

RCJG228

Cadet
Joined
Aug 26, 2010
Messages
13
Re: faded out paint

Sounds like you will have to start from step 1. You will love the results after you go through all these steps. Using a power buffer when doing the whole boat will really make the job easier. You can get a decent power buffer from Harbor Freight for about $50.00. Good Luck!!!

Hand applications can achieve satisfactory results,but prefer the use of a power buffer (non orbital types) for various reasons.
- Applies a thinner coat, making product easier to remove.
- Products coat evenly, resulting in a uniform finish.
- Clean more aggressively, removes more contaminants and oxidation.
- When used properly it will remove swirl marks (can cause swirl marks if wrong or dirty wool pads and products are used.)

STEP 1 COMPOUND (Heavy)

Compounds vary in degrees of grit/coarseness. They are used to remove heavy oxidations and deeply imbedded contaminants. Various compounds can either be in a paste form (brushed on, heavier grit) or in liquid form (milder grits). When using compounds, it is best to do small areas at a time, 4' x 4' is the recommended size. When using compounds, use 100% WHITE wool pad. Apply product to hull. If using paste compound, brush evenly in a 4' x 4' area. If liquid form, apply in vertical stripes spaced 9" - 11" apart, top to bottom of area. Check product recommendation for proper RPM of the power buffer, usually between 1500-2000 RPM. While using buffer, it is important to keep it moving. Overlap your strokes by about 50% while using light pressure. When using compound it is best to leave the buffing pad flat on the surface to minimize swirl marks. While working product in, areas you have gone over in the section will be drying. Once the section is worked in, spur the pad. (spurring details below). Go back over section and remove remaining compound. When moving to the next section overlap previous section by 10". Continue until hull/topside is complete.

STEP 2 COMPOUND (Mild)

Mild compounding is the same process except you will be dealing with a liquid product of finer grit. This is used to remove mild oxidation. 100% WHITE wool pad is still used in the mild compound stage.

STEP3 POLISHING

Polishes are used to remove slight oxidation and remove fine scratches left by the compounding stages. It is also used to remove swirl marks. Swirl marks are microscopic scratches in the gelcoat caused by many reasons i.e. washing with stiff brushes, compounding, applying or removing products with dirty or improper or otherwise harsh applicator. Swirl marks are identifiable in direct sunlight and appear, as swirls of course, on the surface. The most noticeable region on a boat for swirl marks in the forward sections in the bow where the flair is and the front of the flying bridge topsides. Polishes should be applied in 4' x 4' sections also, but on newer boats of certain manufacturers can be applied in larger sections. Apply the polish in vertical lines spaced 12" apart. Using a power buffer with 100% YELLOW wool pad, apply the product, working it completely in. It is best to overlap your sections and work slow. Polish restores beneficial oils to the gel coat which can prolong it's shine. As you finish working the product in, spur the pad and remove from surface.

STEP 4 WAXING

Waxing is one of the easiest ways to extend the amount of time before you need to utilize steps 1-3. There area many different variations of ways on the market. Some that are even a polish, or vise versa. The highest priced and highest quality is YELLOW Carnuba. Polymer and synthetic polymer coatings are also good, but are limited to the types of gelcoat/paint they can be used on. Teflon waxes are not what they claim to be either. DuPont, the maker of Teflon, issued this statement: "The application of a Telfon Fluoropolymer resin does nothing to enhance the properties of a car wax. We have no data that indicates the use of Teflon is beneficial in car waxes." Wax is best applied with the appropriate wax applicator applied in circular motions. It is best to do small sections, even as small as 2' x 2' to avoid "baking in" We do not recommend applications of 2 or more coats at a time. It is better to apply wax at more frequent intervals to prevent oxidation. Wax the vessel every one and one half month to two months. More so in hotter, tropical regions and also salt water locations. When removing wax, always use a 100% terry cloth towel that is made in the U.S.A.

SPURRING/CARE/USEAGE OF WOOL PADS
1) Spur the pad using the spur usually supplied with pad. (Tongue depressors work great for this.)
2) Only use one product per pad to avoid contamination/mixing of products.
3) Use a NEW pad and/or foam when trying to remove swirl marks.
*** AND REMEMBER, KEEP PAD FLAT ON THE SURFACE ***
 
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