Finished transom, need trim cap?

reelfishin

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Mar 19, 2007
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I just got done replacing the transom in my '63 Starcraft Jupiter, I laminated two sheets of 3/4" marine ply together with a layer of glass in between, and two layers of woven over the forward surface. I used epoxy and adhered the finished assembly to the hull skin by troweling out a thin layer of 5200 and then clamping it tight for a few days. The transom is probably far stronger than it ever was new.
My question is, where can I get the thin aluminum cap that covers the top of the transom? The original was worn though in many places and cracked to bits.
It's no more than light sheet metal with a 1/4" lip on both sides. It has to be fairly flexible since the top of the transom is curved nearly the entire way across, all but where the motor sets. It has to span the two layers of marine plywood, resin, glass mat and outer transom skin, which is about 1/8" thick.

The other question is on how to fill many unused holes in the gunwale tops? The boat has had many snaps, steps, rails, and other items bolted to the gunwales over the years, I will only be using about half of them. The rest need to be filled or hidden. Any ideas? Welding would be a mess, far too many holes to fill, epoxy probably wouldn't stay put unsupported. I am thinking some sort of rubber mat that I could glue down, along the entire gunwale length. Something like carpet runner rubber or similar? Even if it only ran as far forward as the windshield?
 

tashasdaddy

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Nov 11, 2005
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Re: Finished transom, need trim cap?

what about the stuff they use for non skid on metal stair steps. the aluminum trim i have no idea.
 

reelfishin

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Mar 19, 2007
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3,050
Re: Finished transom, need trim cap?

I thought about angle but this transom is rounded all the way to the gunwales. The only flat area is right under the motor.
The curve is pretty severe, too much to just bend say 2" angle to fit,I'd have to cut it to allow the bend. It really needs a cap not just an angle. The cap really blocks a lot of water. I'd also like to make a full aluminum panel to cover the exposed wood in the splashwell, even though it's glassed over, I think it would last longer with a full metal panel there. That way I can seal the spashwell completely from the wood.
What I did on several glass boats was to take 1/8" wall box tubing and cut out one side with a band saw, leaving a U channel to cover the glass where the motor sits. Right now it looks like I may end up using flat stock, curving it to make the top cap, then welding on the edges cut from a full sheet. I was just hoping to avoid a days work custom fabbing a transom cap.
 
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