First I/O owner 1979 Arro

yohanus

Cadet
Joined
Oct 2, 2010
Messages
7
Ok guys a little backgroud first, I have 15 years experience with automotive engines and applications, that being said I have only owned two boats. one is a 10 ft. SeaKing all fiberglass hull with a Mercury 25 Hp. outboard, this how ever is not the boat in question. The subject of this thread is a 1976 Arro 18 Ft., walkthrough windshield, 165 Hp. inline 6 Mercruiser with the I drive, pre alpha as I understand it. the serial number for the engine is 3692675 and the stern drive is 33216833. Some background on the boat, when i bought it the motor had everything taken off right down to the block everything was scattered out in the floor of the boat. Was told the block had a crack in it. Upon inspection I found a fine hairline crack about 1 1/2 inches long on the water jacket side between the first and secound freeze plugs and the third had been tilted out of its hole. Decided it was from freeze damage due to improper layup for the winter where the previous owner either forgot or did not know how to drain the block properly. Took the motor to a local head shop and they pinned the crack for me, I don't know if any of you guys have had sucess with pining block cracks but I have never had a problem with it in the past. Fortunately for me the previous owner labled everything when he dissasembled the moter right down to the nuts and blots and where they came from. after 3 hours of re-assembly and a carb rebuild and new points that where provided I had her up and running rough ideal at first but running. read the shop manuel and reset the idel screws at three turns each shes' still a little rough but idels at 700 RPM. Took her to the water today and ran her up a little. From what I understand this motor tops out around 4500 to 5000 RPM under load. On the trailer and in a tub of water the engine ran up stead as a rock to 5000 RPM still with a slight miss at idle. When I tried her out with five passengers she would barely make 3000 to 4000 RPM. She did manage to plane out but would not get over 3000 RPM after that. Noticed the bilge taking on water and the pump kept up with the leak and we ran her for about an hour or so. Once we got her back on the trailer and home I checked the stern drive for possible leaks and found that the drive shaft bellows (not sure what it's called) had two cracks in it on the left side so that needs replacing. Any ideas as to what is causing the lack of reaching max RPM and what might be causing the rough idel problem as well. I tried to be as through as possible any other information you might need to help with the diagnoses let me know. Thanks.
 

yohanus

Cadet
Joined
Oct 2, 2010
Messages
7
Re: First I/O owner 1979 Arro

No I have not done a Compression test yet but I will. the fuel system is clean new hoses fresh full tank of gas. Have no way to test the pressure though. Cleaned plugs and wires are in good shape. Prop is in good to excelent condition, there are a few scratches from debris contact from the mississippi river I'm sure.
 

yohanus

Cadet
Joined
Oct 2, 2010
Messages
7
Re: First I/O owner 1979 Arro

Here are the results of the compression test
#1: 125
#2: 100
#3: 125
#4: 125
#5: 125
and now the killer #6: 0. either a stuck valve, bad or broken rings, or hole in the piston, the last would seem unlikey since all the pistions liiked good when i put the head back on, all the plugs including number 6 where brown with a little suit on them. Sugestions please. Seems at the least a tear down, new gaskets and a valve check for number 6.
 

mkast

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Nov 6, 2002
Messages
1,934
Re: First I/O owner 1979 Arro

Cylinder leakdown test.
 

yohanus

Cadet
Joined
Oct 2, 2010
Messages
7
Re: First I/O owner 1979 Arro

OK leakdown test it is. Before I go to the parts store and plunk down some bucks for the tester, is there a way to build one home made or should i just spend the money for one?
 

Don S

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
Aug 31, 2004
Messages
62,321
Re: First I/O owner 1979 Arro

Google is your friend http://lmgtfy.com/?q=Leak+Down+Tester


Actually, you don't need a full leak down test. If all you want to do is find out why #6 has zero compression. Just get #6 cylinder at TDC on the compression stroke (BOTH valves closed) and pressureize the cylinder with air and listen. If you hear a lot of air in the valve cover, you have a piston with a hole in it, hear it from the carb, the intake valve is bad, hear it from the exhaust an exhaust valve is bad.
 

EddiePetty

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Aug 25, 2008
Messages
1,008
Re: First I/O owner 1979 Arro

Google is your friend http://lmgtfy.com/?q=Leak+Down+Tester


..... Just get #6 cylinder at TDC on the compression stroke (BOTH valves closed) and pressureize the cylinder with air and listen. If you hear a lot of air in the valve cover, you have a piston with a hole in it, hear it from the carb, the intake valve is bad, hear it from the exhaust an exhaust valve is bad.

...and if you detect bubbles in the coolant at the filler neck: Blown head gasket!!!
Check your valve adjustments before you get too carried away. :)

Oh, yeah..... "On the trailer and in a tub of water the engine ran up stead as a rock to 5000 RPM still with a slight miss at idle. "
Don't do that !!!! Much past 1K and the impeller pump will be sucking air and there goes your engine temps as well as the pump!!!
 

Don S

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
Aug 31, 2004
Messages
62,321
Re: First I/O owner 1979 Arro

A blown head gasket or bad rings wil not give you 0 compression. It will be very low, probably in the 30 to 60 psi range, but not 0.
That takes a big hole, either in a piston, or a tuleped valve.
When you had the head off. Did all the valves look the same on the surface of the valve? Were the stems and the valve springs all setting about the same height? They should have been.
It's very hard to see problems when you don't know what you are looking for.
 

yohanus

Cadet
Joined
Oct 2, 2010
Messages
7
Re: First I/O owner 1979 Arro

Ok gents latest test results. Squirted a few shots of oil into number 6 cylinder and loe and behold 135 lbs conpression same with the rest of the cylinders. I took the push rods off of number 6 to insure they both where staying closed when I did this. Question, could the rings on number 6 have been dry and not sealing in the first place or could one of the valves just been stuck? I have had the dry ring problem with car engines before, and after a few shots of oil, good compression every time it was checked from then on. The valves did appear to be at the same height before initial asembly. There was some carbon build up but a light brushing with a wire brush removed that. The cylinder wall all apeared to be smooth and did contain a light cross hatch patern so I assumed the previous owner had honed the cylinders and just never got around to re-assembly. Im going to reset the valves on number six and drop her back into the water tub in the morning. The tube covers the pump intake holes by about three inches or so but ill keep her under 1000 this time Don as you seem to be the guroo here. next is removal of the stern drive and replacement of the bellows as I found a couple of cracks in the drive shaft bellows. The book says place it in forward gear, remove the six mounting nuts and slide it out. is there any thing else other than loosening the clamps on the bellows, and water hose that I should do before sliding the drive away from the boat? (I do have a hoist and will use it).
 

yohanus

Cadet
Joined
Oct 2, 2010
Messages
7
Re: First I/O owner 1979 Arro

one more observation ran the compression tests again today and got 125 psi across the board re-installed the spark plugs and dunked her in the tub started first crank and ideled steady as a rock all the way down to 450 rpm. Set the idle at 675 rpm and will try to put her back in the water this weekend. anythoughts.
Thanks for all the help guys.
 
Top