First post and already want to say THANKS!

handirifle

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Apr 29, 2011
Messages
30
Let me start off by saying I found this forum out of frustration, probably like a lot of folks. I have a '72 6hp Johnson, and have been having a few "issues" with it of late.

The motor has sat for a year or so, since I last used it, due to moving and building a new home, yada yada. Anyway, I've been too busy to get the boat in the water until a few weeks ago. Long story short, it didn't run worth a darn. After doing some trouble shooting on my own and bouncing ideas off friends, I ordered a carb and fuel pump kit.

I do not have a manual, so am winging some of it. Some things I know real well on engines, some not. The issues with this engine are definitely fuel supply problems. That solved, I did the carb today, and got it all back in fine order. Wasn't sure on float setting, but have since found out what I needed to know there. I will double check that tomorrow.

I think my current problem, is the fuel pump. The motor starts, runs good, than slowly runs out of gas and stops, and then is tough to restart. It MIGHT be the float setting, so I will check that out tomorrow, for sure.

I had put a kit into the fuel pump, but like a few that I have read here, they are a bear to put back together. Luckily, after doing a search, i found this link posted http://www.sschapterpsa.com/rambling...g_fuelpump.htm on one of the threads. PERFECT, just what I was looking for, and will take the laptop to the shop tomorrow, and follow the instruction, step by step.

I anticipate a good running motor when all is done, thanks to this forum. I WILL follow up the post after the work is done.
 

handirifle

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Apr 29, 2011
Messages
30
Re: First post and already want to say THANKS!

Well I took the laptop to the shop, pulled the pump, and took it apart. First thing I notice, is the old air dome support (item 7 0n http://www.sschapterpsa.com/ramblings/Rebuilding_fuelpump.htm the list in the link) is stuck inside one of the air valves. Never noticed that before. Anyway the assembly went textbook, and it passed the blow test listed at the bottom. Now to pull the carb back off and see the bowl setting.
 

handirifle

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Apr 29, 2011
Messages
30
Re: First post and already want to say THANKS!

OK pulled the carb, and the bottom of the float bowl. The float was within 1/16 to 1/32 of level. I corrected that to level with a little tweaking of the tab. Put it back together, hooked the fuel up, and pumped the primer bulb. Pulled the choke all the way out and it started, first pull.

It runs smooth as silk in the tank, in neutral, but seems to get an occasional miss (noticed by the quick jerking of the motor) under load. I am hoping this is a minor fouling of the plugs from all the attempts to run it in the last few days.

I have pulled the flywheel and checked the point gaps ( "0.020" as indicated on the flywheel) and I assume the timing is controlled by the keyway on the shaft.

Maybe tomorrow, or Monday I can get it in the lake to see if it clears up. I have read some posts here about testing the coil strength with a 3/4" gap. How do you hold the plugs to that setting? Is there some tool to use?

Thanks in advance.

Oh, one more question, is the fuel line between the carb and fuel pump, a 3/16" line? Mine split at the carb fitting and need to replace it.
 

boater121

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Mar 25, 2011
Messages
46
Re: First post and already want to say THANKS!

yes i have the same engine just 74 went through evrything u just did but i replaced my coils cause they were cracked..check water pump as well...
 

handirifle

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Apr 29, 2011
Messages
30
Re: First post and already want to say THANKS!

Boater121,
I have had this motor for about 3 years now, and when I got it there was no thermostat in it, so I got one and also at the recommendation of a boat shop owner friend (back where I moved from) I replaced the pump impeller. I get good water flow. I guess I can lake test it and see what happens. Are the coils a straight forward R&R? I have read some posts about being careful to make sure the coils are grounded on a good clean connection. Anything else to look for? How much were the coils?
 

boater121

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Mar 25, 2011
Messages
46
Re: First post and already want to say THANKS!

yea pretty much..just gotta pull flywheel and there underneath..i paid 60 for two here in fl at local marina..cheaper online..have motor running andwith a good set of insulated pliers pull one plug wire off at a time youll hear a difference ..mine ran great on one cylinder then i found both coils cracked..no problem since and if the coils are original then i recommend replacing both cause they are prone to cracking
 

handirifle

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Apr 29, 2011
Messages
30
Re: First post and already want to say THANKS!

Well, since the lake is only a 30 min drive from home, I got it out early this afternoon. My boat is an old Sears, 12ft aluminum. I got it to the dock, and started it up. Started first pull (NEVER done that before), and I was fighting about a 15-20mph wind coming from the lake to the dock. At least I knew I could row it back if necessary. Most folks were leaving. When backing it up, the waves were splashing over the transom, pretty rough water for a little boat, but decided to try anyway.

Finally got it pointed into the wind, towards open water and, once I got past the no wake buoys, I opened it up. It actually got the little sears boat to plane. Never done that before either. I'm guessing top end was somewhere around 15.

Ran smooth as silk. Never hiccuped once.

I am one happy camper.
 
Top