First time winterizing

[nylyon]

It is my first time winterizing my 1997 Four Winns 3.0 Penta. Here's what I did.
Prior to my last trip out, filled the tank added stabil.
Today, hooked up the hose and ears, brought it up to temperature
Pumped out the oil, replaced the filter, and added 15W-50 Mobil 1
Removed block and exhaust drain plugs on port side (none on starboard) inserted small screw driver to unplug
Removed both hoses from raw water pump
Removed water line to power steering cooler drained the hose
Reinstalled all plugs and lines
Put cups on the out drive hooked up to a container containing 4 gallons of RV antifreeze (-50)
Removed air cleaner
Started engine, ran until the antifreeze container was just about empty then fogged engine for 15 seconds, and shut it off.
Disconnected the ears, and put everything away

Think that I am good? Should I drain the antifreeze also, or leave it in there?

The out drive was pulled 2 weeks to replace the gimbal bearing and both bellows, so I didn't pull it. Monday, will replace the out drive gear oil with fresh Volvo 75W90 then wash it good and get it shrink wrapped.

 

[Grub54891]

Sounds like ya got it done. Doesn't hurt to change out any fuel filters also, just to be sure there is no moisture in the system. I usually change them when doing the oil change, then run the anti through,I leave it in there but I use the 100 below. Some may respond that you don't need the anti freeze, Air don't freeze. but I like the piece of mind it gives me. Sorry Bondo...lol

 

[BRICH1260]

It sounds like you did a pretty thorough job. You will get a lot of different opinions on the draining of the anti-freeze. I don't think you can go wrong with either method.

 

[nylyon]

Thank you for the replies. Hopefully my gear oil will arrive today and I'll get that changed out, then just have to give it a good wash and wrap it up for the winter. It's a shame, I bought it so late in the season, didn't have much chance to use it, but looking forward to easily getting it ready in the spring with hopefully no problems.

 

[jkust]

Of course assuming you got the water out, antifreeze is not needed because air doesn't freeze. That said, the place that does my winterization now uses antifreeze as well where for years they didn't. It's a few bucks so what's the difference. -30 or colder isn't unheard of in Northern MN. If it were me since you sound like you are storing outside, I'd grab the battery and put it somewhere warm or put it onto a float charger in the garage for the off season as well. Had my expensive custom order battery freeze in my boat in my garage a couple years back when I stupidly forgot to disconnect the battery when I had to reconnect it from the winterization marina to trim it up to get it in my garage. The little led that blinks when you remove the stereo faceplate must have killed it in conjunction with the cold since I left the batt switch in the on position. I now put all of my vehicles on float chargers in the off seasons.

 

[Grub54891]

We used to have a lot of the boaters have us remove the battery in the winter. Not any more. If the battery is fully charged, disconnected, it'll be fine in the spring. No matter what the temp gets to. If it's not, it was on it's way out anyway.

 

[further]

Out of precaution, I take my batteries out and store them in my basement on a shelf (off of the concrete floor) and on float chargers.

Regarding the anti-freeze, there are tons of posts on pros and cons most of which revolve around whether or not you are actually introducing antifreeze through the entire cooling system which would only happen if you got the motor up to operating temp so the thermostat is open fully and allow proper circulation. I don't want to chance leaving any water in mine so I drain the block and manifolds completely and then back flush the unhooked hoses with -100 degree antifreeze so whatever is left in the system is antifreeze.
I've read some posts on here that the anti freeze is not actually freeze proof and will freeze and expand in severe conditions - don't remember who it was on here but they did a test with antifreeze in a water bottle to see the expansion characteristics.

 

[bruceb58]

No problem in storing a battery on a concrete floor. I would leave them in the boat as long as they are fully charged and even better if they can have a charger on them through the winter.

 

[Scott Danforth]

make sure it is a battery tender or maintenance type charger over winter (with a good float mode). I know too many people that boiled off batteries by throwing the starting/charging type battery chargers on the battery for a long period of time.

 

[nylyon]

I was planning on taking the battery out and storing it in the basement. What do you think of this for the outdrive, or is a heavy plastic bag enough?

 

[bruceb58]

Just store it down like the picture on the bottom right.

 

[Grub54891]

A plastic bag will hold condensation and any water that gets in there. Store with drive lowered, so the bellows don't take a set. If ya want cover it with a canvas so it can breath. I myself don't cover it.

 

[Lou C]

Leave the drive down so water does not collect in the lower unit and freeze. I remove the drive for the yearly service and store it in the garage. As far as the antifreeze, you don't need it for freeze protection as long as you drain properly. Adding antifreeze helps in reducing corrosion. I am an advocate of fully draining and manually backfilling with -100 marine AF. I have a 28 year old raw water cooled engine that has been moored and used in salt water at least 15 years and I think this is why it has not rotted through yet. Even Mercury in their manual says to add antifreeze to reduce corrosion.

 

[Lou C]

PS those bags look like they are to reduce marine growth in salt water. Not needed for storage.

 

[nylyon]

Finally got the out drive gear oil changed. The oil in there was blue in color, but the Volvo gear lube is almost clear. Going to forego the shrink wrap, bought a custom Sunbrella cover to cover it up.