Fixxing Dent in Aluminum boat

[Strahm]

Just bought a Polar kraft xt 175 aluminum bass boat.
Previous owner hit a stump, and dented bottom of boat right at the transom. I have not tested the boat. Previous owner said the boat is usable but pulls to the right. Dent is in the center of the boat, but just to the right side of center.

The dent is probably 2 foot long, and ranges from 1/4" deep to 3/4" deep.
It is not easily accessible from the inside of the boat. I can see the dent from the inside in one spot, and there are structural beams welded right at the dent.
No welds are broken, no cracking, and no leaks.

I have done some searching, and gathered that aluminum is very difficult to remove dents from. Heating doesn't work. Hammer and dolly seems to be the best method, but for this dent is not economically feasible.

Bondo has mixxed reviews, and is said that an body putty will expand at different rates than the aluminum so it will fall off eventually.

The method I have decided is to use Marine Tex gray. I think this will be a good fix?
When applying should I grind all paint off, clean with alcohol, apply marine tex, then paint (going to use spray paint since its the bottom of the boat)?
Anything else I should do to ensure good adhesion and protection of the repair?

To me it is not worth spending over $1000 on cutting the floor out, and fixxing the dent manually. I am thinking the Marine tex will last atleast a year if not longer, and I could use it over 10 times before it exceeds the price of welding/manually removing the dent.

 

[GA_Boater]

Did you water test the boat to see how bad it handles? Maybe it's a live with it situation?

 

[Watermann]

Most outboard boats pull to the right, it's torque from the prop. That isn't enough of a dent to cause handling problems. Boats that get damaged and "hooked" is not just a dent on the bottom in the stern area. The guy needed to learn about using the trim on the motor to take care of the right hand pull.



If it makes you feel better to do some work on it now I understand that completely. I would clean the AL well and remove all paint. Scuff up the surface and apply the MT in layers and not all at once until you have the dent smoothed out. Don't worry about it being perfect just smoothed out.

 

[Scott Danforth]

the dent has created a hook to the hull. in my young and dumb years, we used to bang the dents out by pulling the boat onto a wet beach area and beat the dent out with a rubber hammer. the wet sand worked as a sand bag would for pounding dents out, however without the ability to hammer and dolly, you end up with a very rough hull

 

[gm280]

Not being able to see the actual dent, it is hard to say how to proceed with a fix. The best way to fix any dent, whether it is in steel or aluminum, is to work it out from the opposite side around the edges toward the middle so that it eases the dent out without creating more little dents to deal with. Don't hammer in the center trying to bounce it out, start around the edges and work meticulously in a circular direction towards the center... After you get it back to as close to flush as you can get it, then if you like use your fillers and such. The chances of fillers separating and falling out from small/shallow filled areas is a whole lot less then huge thick filled areas. Good luck.

 

[MH Hawker]

Or you can fill it with lab metal

http://alvinproducts.com/

 

[roscoe]

Definitely need to try it out before doing anything to it.

The dent described sounds minor and inconsequential. I've used boats with far worse, with little if any handling issues.
Also, pounding away at seams and welds may actually open them up.

Adjust the torque tab on the motor, above the prop.
Move the rear of the tab, all the way to starboard.

 

[Woodonglass]

Or you can fill it with lab metal

http://alvinproducts.com/

THAT is some interesting looking stuff!!!!! Thanks for Sharing. It's going in my Knowledge Library!!!