Floating house (houseboat) steel hull issues

[BeBe231]

My floating home is having some rusting issues to say the least. I have a custom '79 steel hull 2 story floating house (The Whimsy). She was originally a flat open work barge. I would like to know if anyone has information or knowledge on cementing steel hulls. She is docked at the marina I live and work at on the Ouachita River in Louisiana with no intentions of ever moving her. I have seen several older steel hull barges in this area cemented just can't seem to find info online. The process is simple. You vacuum/clean the hull, patch all leaks that come from doing this with (my preference) JB Water weld putty epoxy, brush/paint on a rust killer (a metal prep solution like you would use before painting), mix your cement (sand, Portland, hydraulic cement, and only additive anticorrosion waterproof) together and pour/spread over the entire hull bottom a good 2 to 3 inches thick, and last step is to then paint in inner hull with rust resistant paint. I have seen several done with no problems 2 in particular that were done over 20 years ago that the cement has now replaced the rusting hull bottom leaving the frame bracings and cross brackets. As the water is extremely low I am unable to pull her out of the water. Not to mention it is very costly to sandblast, weld, and paint even with doing the work myself. I am not asking if you think this is correct repair as I have seen with my on eyes it works as well as spoke with several older marina/boat owners men who have worked the river their entire lifes....I am just wondering if anyone knows of information online about reinforcing with cement that is not pertaining to ferrocement boats?

 

[Scott Danforth]

welcome aboard

good luck. my suggestion, contact the local people that do it.

personally knowing many people in the houseboat, barge, and ship building business, pretty sure they would pull the hull, blast the hull, patch the hull, blast the patches, then use the proper bottom paint for the hull.

non-reinforced concrete spread over a rusting hull has two fundamental issues. first is that concrete doesnt like to flex - so it will eventually fail, second, the hull will rust faster.

 

[BeBe231]

The water level is 5ft below pool stage. The Core of Engineers are working on the level down river next to the lock and dams so they have been lowering the water level in order to work on reinforcing the bank. It will be low til at least December and i need repairs now. Which has caused a closure of several boat ramps including the two they would be able to use the houseboat trailer on. The local experienced boating people or go toers. Are helping me with the cementing. As well as done it to several floating homes.
You are correct about the flexibility or lack of in cement but that is were the waterproofing additive (Xypex) comes into play. It is a memberain type substance and will automatically fill any an all cracks that form. It's not concrete either no gravel or rock will be in the mixture. It is a very fine smooth cement. With a absorbing agent that is a rubber substance. The cement will not cause rusting any faster. It will actually slow the rusting on the inside because it will keep water out because of the waterproofing and anticorrosion additive.
it is cement not concrete no rock or gravel will be in the mix.
i am looking for a little fact finding to say in understanding why this is not a "proper"" correct" option.

 

[BeBe231]

*levee
i i repeated myself some sorry. The cement will absorb any water that could set between the steel and cement. The hydraulic component will keep the cement from turning to slushy stuff.

 

[Scott Danforth]

after just coming back from another ship yard visit. all I can say is good luck

 

[Grub54891]

Seems to me you already made up your mind on what you are going to do. You have the resources and people that will help, and say it works. How about some pictures of the project, before, during and after. What it the name of the products you are using? We would like to see the process, and what be ones of it. Good luck.

 

[BeBe231]

Yes sir I have already made up my mind and do have some pics I will post. I was just looking for a little bit of umm guess you would call it Google knowledge. If I was planning on repairing the motor (which I removed last summer) then my decision would have been different. I would have banked her until she could be pulled, blasted, welded, and painted.
All holes have been patched. The white putty areas are holes or where she began seeping water after cleaning. This is before rusty killer (which is the brand) steel prep material is applied. That is on the next 2 days list to do.

 

[BeBe231]

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