Floor,stringer replacement

[jamowers]

Well for some reason I am attempting to do this myself(pretty handy). I have removed the deck and found foam waterlogged and the inside stringers rotten to the bottom. I have read many posts about replaceing the wood, and am more confused by the minute. Tabbing??, what foam to use, I think I am lost!!!! LOL the casings for the old stringers are in decent shape. Can I replace wood, PL in a bed and epoxy around the wood? I have never fiberglassed anything BTW.:eek

I dont plan on keeping the boat forever but found bad front mount when coupler bit the dust.

As soon as I can figure out how to I'll post some pics.

Sorry amolt forgot.......82 renken open bow.

 

[BobsGlasstream]

Re: Floor,stringer replacement

jamowers,
Welcome to the madness.
You may be able to use the old glass, but I wouldn't. Laying glass is not that hard. The grinding is the worst part. Almost anyone can lay glass correctly. If you haven't yet, I would do considerable reading. You will find a lot of great information here and a lot of great folks to help you.
Good luck
Bob

 

[RobbyA]

Re: Floor,stringer replacement

Start with a clean and fresh hull. It will save you time, effort, and frustration in the long run.

 

[jamowers]

Re: Floor,stringer replacement

I am grinding down to hull. It looks like the bottom of the stringers are right on the hull. I couldnt get to the bottom where the stringers were when grinding...is this ok to leave as long as the surrounding glass is good and clean? (There is a lip where the stringer used to be).

 

[drewpster]

Re: Floor,stringer replacement

The channels where the stringers used to be dont have to be perfectly clean. You just want the surrounding area where new glass is going to bond to the hull as clean as you can get it. I used a wire brush and some acetone to clean out the channels where my old stringers were. In fact it is better to leave a slightly raised bead on either side of where the stringer needs to go. It will help you locate the new ones.
When you are grinding make sure you remove any dark glass that you find. Dont go crazy just get it clean. Black patches in the old laminate are areas where water has penetrated the fiberglass and turned it black. It is not a good idea to put new glass over the black spots. When you get everything clean down to good glass, then you are ready to put stuff back together. Keep some acetone or Laq. thinner at hand to wipe stuff down as you go. The idea is to get everything as clean as possible.
If you have to grind out a bad spot, dont just grind out a hole. Grind it so that the low area feathers out in a shallow cone. This will prep it so that you can lay in new glass to that area. You will have to replace the glass in any deep depressions to keep those areas strong before the stringers go back in.
If you find any holes or really thin spots grind them back in the same way. Now is the time to get them prepped so you can fix them before you replace the cores.
Are you doing the transom too? You need to check it, while you are at this.

 

[jamowers]

Re: Floor,stringer replacement

Checked it and wow its solid...everything else in this boat was mush! Planned on scrapeing down the channels and yeah I read about the acetone. Most everything hull wise looks good just some spots in the aft end where stringers were tied together. Thanks for the info. I'll post some more pics when I get back to he tomorrow. I tried a few different things on grinding the hull until I read about someone using a flapper disk...WOW they work (using a tyvek suit from now on!!!!!)

 

[jamowers]

Re: Floor,stringer replacement

Weekend of grinding and not much improvement!!! Oh well have to keep going now.

BTW here is a pic of the ol girl.

 

[CTJeff]

Re: Floor,stringer replacement

JA
I did the same boat last year it came out awesome. It even sits in the water higher. I went to HD scored some poplar(same as what came out) you will have to belt sand them down to fit the existing slots, I think they were 1x5, measure old stringers if possible, mine came out as 80% dirt. Buy extra and make one a template then work off of it. You might find as I did the factorys quality control, was poor. Just improvise, you cant screw it up worse then they did and it lasted 30yrs. I cut & layed a 2x4's horizontally to figure the floor level and pitched it in the center. I also removed all that center belly deal. I just ran the stringers front to back and added poplar horizontals notched the stringers glued & ss screwed them in for a really stiff floor, I then cut a hole back under and in front of the motor mount to drain all water back to the bildge area. Please make notes & photos and measurments of you motor mount as this was a killer for me. REMEMBER YOU CAN ALWAYS RAISE THE MOTOR/MOUNT YOU CANT LOWER THE MOTOR LOWER THAN THE HULL (sorry for caps) really diagram/document this part it is crutial! They used a chopper gun so the glass will varie in thickness of material, I used two layers of cloth everywhere and a lots of resin. This stuff will out last us all. You will need a buddy because once you get moving, you will see you wont want to stop and restart. Get the stringers right by some cheap light ply make a floor template fit and cut refit & repeat. Use exterior grade ply same glue, look at what came out it lasted 30 years & they just covered the top! Remember you want durability, you will never make money on the boat,and it wont last another 30yrs, just make it so you will be proud of it. Isn't that what counts the most? Good luck The end result is great If you would like to PM me your email & I would be glad to send more pix. My files must be 2 large it wont except my pictures.
Jeff

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Floor,stringer replacement

How did you check the transom? The Correct way is to take a 3/8 inch drill bit and drill 3/4 inch deep holes down low by the drain hole and then at various places across the bottom of the transom towards the sides of the boat. You should get light brown DRY shavings. If you get powder or dark brown WET shavings then your Transom is wet and needs to be replaced. Usually when the stringers are in this bad of condition the Transom is bad too! While you have the boat torn down to this condition, you should do a very good inspection of the transom to make SURE it is sound. If it is solid, use 3M 5200 to fill the holes. Do NOT use silicone.


I'm just sayin...

 

[rebuilt]

Re: Floor,stringer replacement

Gotta go with Wood On Glass. Soft deck spots, sorry stringers, not so hard to spot, or feel. Transom damage?? Not so easy to discern. Ya gotta go lookin. Think about it..... if the deck is soft.... howd it get that way? Long term water exposure. Stringers shot??? same. long term water exposure. so... if the deck is soft, and the stringers are shot... why not at least explore the possibility that the transom has seen some water damage as well. Down low, where you're not gonna see it. There is a ton of stuff on transom repair-replacement. Some fill it, some replace it. The idea of my motor ripping off the aft section of the boat is not a pleasant thought. So... it aint gonna happen. Wish I'da left the outermost skin of glass and gelcoat on mine, woulda saved bookoo hours of work. but I do have the assurance that the bond is solid, the resin is fresh, and the plywood is firmly tied to the rest of the hull. If ya got plenty of grinding discs, there really is no way to completely
screw up. It can all be fixed. Believe me... I've made my share of inexperienced, duh... (oh sh*t) that's what they meant!! Mistakes. No big... buy some more resin, lay it up again, and smile. Great forum. Helped me tons. Good folks. See ya on the water. KR

 

[BobsGlasstream]

Re: Floor,stringer replacement

My 2 cents,
If you haven't checked the transom do yourself a favor. Check the transom.
At this point it's easy to get to and not that hard to replace. I would hate to see you put it back together and find that the transom needs replaced and you have to tear your new deck back off.
Take care.
Bob

 

[CTJeff]

Re: Floor,stringer replacement

Yep-
You should check it out! I had everything out of the boat. I started the project because of a rotten transome assembly specificly around the gimble bearing so I removed the outdrive, motor, gimble housing, then the transome plate. I checked out the transome. I would guess 99% good, that with a freshwater cooled sterndrive engine a no brainer(fix it). I even added a teak swim platform it all turned out awesome. Now if it were an outboard with a rotten transome of that vintage might be a tough call, but if you like your boat and have the time you go for it.

Jeff

 

[jamowers]

Re: Floor,stringer replacement

I didnt use the drill technique....some glass was missing where the stringer hit the transome. It is wet but not rotted anywhere near the stringers in the center of the boat. (Mine rotted from the spot where the open bow hits the floor back.) I was going to tear it apart but am wondering about removing the bellhousing and seperating the equipment on there, if I could ever get it back together again. I have removed enough equipment from this thing already!! LOL

 

[proshadetree]

Re: Floor,stringer replacement

I thought mine was solid. I had perfect stringers, engine mounts were hard as a rock. Did the drill thing in the boat and it was dry. First time in the water she leaked badly. When I pulled it out you could see it was leaking at the lower transom. I had to pull it all back apart and rebuild the transom it was to late not to, I had done put way to much time and money in it. Either do the drill test on the outside under the transom plate right in the middle or just go ahead and pull it apart to make dang sure. The price is worth the work.

 

[jamowers]

Re: Floor,stringer replacement

Ill have to do the check on the transom. any suggestions on foam? I have read up on pourable, just looking for an alternative. I am going to install pvc drains in rear stringers as there was nothing there to begin with. I was also not going to foam the center cavity. Is this recommended? The manufacturer just had the outside corners of the center compartment foamed. Would foam board work? Wish these questions didnt sound so cheap!!!!!

 

[BobsGlasstream]

Re: Floor,stringer replacement

jamowers,
The questions have been asked many time by others and they don't sound cheap, more like practical. The foam question will raise a lot of debate. Yes you can use sheet foam like the pink and blue stuff from local home centers. I would not use some of the other types. I used the pour in type myself. The choice is yours.
Take care
Bob

 

[proshadetree]

Re: Floor,stringer replacement

I hate to sound stuck up but do a search on foam. I hate the stuff and have not put it in any boat I have rebuilt. Done about 5 in my life so I am no expert. I have been told it is structural in my Bayliner and I have about 60 hrs on it so far. I have beat it in rough water, it has left the water in a large wake that made me real uncomfortable. It has seen a hard 60 hrs is my point . No cracks and no problems. If I were to have built it for use in a lake I could not have seen both banks a one time I would have foamed the snot out of it. Off shore use really needs foam. Yuk I hate saying that but its true. I have heard of the pink stuff and the blue and many different types and ways to keep water out of it. Use this information at your own risk as no one has swamped their ride to see if it still floats. Pour in where the factory had it and add some more if you can find the room if you are going off shore. In lake use if you don't mind getting a diver and pulling it off the bottom don't worry about it. I have helped pull 2 jet and 1 trihull that must have had wet foam up. The jets were on the bottom of the lake and the trihull the nose was just under the water but it was in much shallower water. Do some research and weigh your options. Only one way is proven the rest is theory. My big boat 25 foot century has no foam from the factory and was compartmentalized I did my Baylinner the same way.

 

[CTJeff]

Re: Floor,stringer replacement

Jeff-
There are built in drains at the stern where the stringers meet the transome. There is a gap at the bottom of the transome and the builder used it as a stringer drain to the bildge its not pretty just a gap. Crawl into the boat with a hanger or a hose, facing the transome on port side the hole or gap is on the right side of the stringer, be sure its cleaned out then plug it up while your still working, starboard side oposite. Thats why I suggest get all the old crap completly out! Leave the nice gap in the center you just made, I also added a hole in the floor all the way up in the bow at the very tip of the floor to let air in to help drain out any water. Let it drain right through to the bildge (you could make it a ski locker), The pink foam at HD is like $10.00 a sheet you need like 2 or three, Use pool noddles up the shallow sides $2.00 each. Like someone else said its your choice. If you use it in the center it will lie flat and you still will have drainage under with the vshape in the hull. If the water can't get tapped it will just get pumped overbard. The spray in closed cell foam contributed to the boats present rotten condition. The cc foam that was in such a small boat adds up to like 6 type I's max. My old 1968 27ft Owens Concord did not have one packing peanut in it ever. I owned it for 10 years and just sold it. It wiil probably live another 20 no foam. I will get you more pix of my identical boat to yours, in the mean time start building dem sringers pronto!
Jeff

 

[jamowers]

Re: Floor,stringer replacement

Went and got poplar for the stringers yesterday. Had to make a side trip for a dining set for the wife.....hopefully will get the plywood for the deck and misc chairs, seats, interior today. I still need to order resin and fiberglass and Im not sure what or how much to order.

 

[rickryder]

Re: Floor,stringer replacement

Went and got poplar for the stringers yesterday. Had to make a side trip for a dining set for the wife.....hopefully will get the plywood for the deck and misc chairs, seats, interior today. I still need to order resin and fiberglass and Im not sure what or how much to order.

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=286013
Read this and you will have all the info you need