Floor to sidewall seal

Joined
Feb 17, 2011
Messages
10
I restored an 18 ft. aluminum a couple years ago. The floor is marine plywood with marine vinyl over the top. I joined the vinyl to the interior sides with a bead of marine or RV goop like 3M 3500 or something like that (can't remember exactly it was but it's pretty tough stuff - takes a week to cure). It was good for a couple years but now has some issues brewing here and there. I what I'd really like to install is a rubberized strip or trim that seals water out of the seam better. I envision somthing with a 120 degree or more angle with holes for screws where I apply some goop underneath the trim piece then screw it to the sidewall and it tightens up as the angle is forced into the corner of the seam. Anyone have advice on what to use and where to find it?
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,932
Re: Floor to sidewall seal

Well, most of the Tin Boat guys here on the forum don't seal their decks to the sides of the hull so... not sure there's gunna be much help. May I ask why you want to do this? I am not a Tin Boat guy but it is my understanding they are kinda built to have water run below deck and back to the bilge to be pumped out, but... I have been wrong before and prolly be wrong again.:eek:

I'm sure one of the Tin Boat guys will be along to put in their 2? worth.
 

kfa4303

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Sep 17, 2010
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6,094
Re: Floor to sidewall seal

I agree with woodonglass. I actually intentionally left about a 1/8"-1/4" gap around the edge of the decking and benches that I recently installed in my 14' tinny to allow for water drainage and so the hull and decks can "breathe". Granted I live in an extremely humid environment (Florida), but I would personally be worried about using something like vinyl to form "water tight" seams, which might trap moisture and condensation, no matter where I lived. All that being said, you may be able to find what you're looking for in the iboats store under the Accessories tab.
 

Huron Angler

Admiral
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Apr 7, 2009
Messages
6,025
Re: Floor to sidewall seal

I'm with Wood and kfa, this is not something that's normally done on a smaller aluminum boat.

On larger boats that can offer self-bailing hulls(almost always fiberglass) this is crucial to the boat's design.

Letting everything below deck air out and dry properly will keep your restoration work in better shape over the long haul. Bow up, plug out while storing outdoors and she will stay dry.
 

oops!

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Oct 18, 2007
Messages
12,932
Re: Floor to sidewall seal

being that that is a tiny....i would not be concerned with the gap between the hull and deck........i would be more concerned with the boat killing you. !

the boat is made from sharp metal.....it will cut you to pieces if you treat it bad....

do you like prosthesis?

metal boats also have reevits.........they leak and your boat will sink......you might drown......give it away !
 

oops!

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Oct 18, 2007
Messages
12,932
Re: Floor to sidewall seal

being that that is a tiny....i would not be concerned with the gap between the hull and deck........i would be more concerned with the boat killing you. !

the boat is made from sharp metal.....it will cut you to pieces if you treat it bad....

do you like prosthesis?

metal boats also have reevits.........they leak and your boat will sink......you might drown......give it away !

to the OP........


welcome to iboats !

the above is a iboats joke do not pay it any attention.....im sure your boat is fine.........just treat it well or learn to swim !
 
Joined
Feb 17, 2011
Messages
10
Re: Floor to sidewall seal

Dang it, I had no idea that thing was so dangerous! Pawn shop guy said nothing. I noticed the leaks and missing rivets but didn?t think 20 gallons out of the plug when I got it on the trailer was a big deal, really. Think I?ll cover the whole boat with fiberglass and leave just enough openings for the steering wheel and motor to move. That should fix it!

On second thought, it's all rock, here (with some water over the top of it). Think I'll leave it rinny tin-tin so I can bump over the rocks to pull you out of your cracked hull.

To answer your question, the boat originally had the floor all the way to the sidewall and the rear is open so any water that comes onto the deck runs out the back into the bilge so I stuck with that when I tore the floor up and replaced. Thanks for the info on the gap ... think I'll go to that at some point when things get worse!
 

Starman8

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Sep 17, 2010
Messages
630
Re: Floor to sidewall seal

OK

The interior sidewalls have a flange on the bottom and your plywood should be UNDER it including your floor covering choice, then the flange gets SS screwed down to pin it all in. In other words, the bottom of the L trim is your goop.

I suppose you are talking about when taking rain or splash into the cockpit? Since you ran your floor covering over this trim then go to HD and buy 1/4" thick vinyl moulding and attach it vertically(on edge) with rivets into the sidewall, or use aluminum L 3/4" and fab a new inside corner.
 

oops!

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Oct 18, 2007
Messages
12,932
Re: Floor to sidewall seal

Dang it, I had no idea that thing was so dangerous! Pawn shop guy said nothing. I noticed the leaks and missing rivets but didn?t think 20 gallons out of the plug when I got it on the trailer was a big deal, really. Think I?ll cover the whole boat with fiberglass and leave just enough openings for the steering wheel and motor to move. That should fix it!

On second thought, it's all rock, here (with some water over the top of it). Think I'll leave it rinny tin-tin so I can bump over the rocks to pull you out of your cracked hull.

To answer your question, the boat originally had the floor all the way to the sidewall and the rear is open so any water that comes onto the deck runs out the back into the bilge so I stuck with that when I tore the floor up and replaced. Thanks for the info on the gap ... think I'll go to that at some point when things get worse!


you are gonna do fine here buddy......just fine !. :D

again......welcome

cheers
oops
 

MichaelP

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Apr 26, 2010
Messages
1,190
Re: Floor to sidewall seal

That goop you used might have been 3M 5200. Popular stuff with boat folks. These boats came with a gap. There isn't a reason for the factory to try and make that joint tight; It gets covered up and customers wont pay extra for it, besides as stated, having a way for the underside to dry out is a good thing. Simply epoxying our decks top and bottom is better than original.

Welcome to the Starmada!
 

sschefer

Rear Admiral
Joined
Nov 13, 2008
Messages
4,530
Re: Floor to sidewall seal

Agree with all who leave a gap. There is considerable flex in the sides of boats in general. Actually this is a good post because we now know why you don't do it. Another reason we might not want to do it, is because if you seal the deck area of a boat it will be difficult to get water to drain to the bilge where you can just hit a switch and pump it out. If you had the freeboard to do it, you could put in deck scuppers but that's probably overkill for a boat that size.

So, it's my opinion that it's better to not seal it and leave that gap for all the reasons above.
 

Starman8

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Sep 17, 2010
Messages
630
Lets not confuse the issue, nor compare decking with a glasser. This is a specific request on an older 18' tin can, which I also happen to own one and restored it.

Our floors are cut and our boats are designed to allow for drainage from either rain or splash.

The forward 2 pieces of plywood, basically midship and fore are scalloped on the edges to compensate for the lateral ribs. This promotes drainage as well as airflow.

The aft of many of these boats have a wall, either sliding door or curtain that separates the cockpit from the area underneath the splashwell. This area drains to the bilge.

The poster is talking about an area that starts under the consoles to the end of the finished cockpit. The L trim original on the walls were meant to promote water flow/drainage to the rear while giving a nice fit finish also.

As I said, the plywood is meant to slide under this L which includes the floor covering, instead he ran his finish floor over the L flange, and is seeking a trim solution.

In my restoration which was carpeted, I did the following:

Unscrewed the SS screws that held down the sidewalls and removed them, most Starcraft guys do the same. Laid the decking and used a combination of rivets and SS screws to attach, all rivets on the outer edges into the ribs.

Every seam from multiple deck pieces that ran laterally where the strapping is was sealed with waterproof sealant. After that set, each seam was taped with NASHUA waterproof butyl tape. This stuff adheres and is waterproof. The goal is to attempt to replicate a one-piece deck. That is the point of these tinnies having strapping to join pieces. I even went further before decking and braced the stringers at each lateral deck joint with aluminum for a nailer.

Laid the carpet and then reattached the sidewalls which further pinned in the floor covering.

These boats were designed in this fashion, just go to the Starcraft restorers section and you will see most of them done the same way.
 
Joined
Feb 17, 2011
Messages
10
Re: Floor to sidewall seal

Lots of good info, thanks all for the write-ups. Yep, 3M 5200 - that's what it was - I got the #'s wrong! Held up pretty good but floor will need some mods here in a year or two so I'll take all your suggestions and improve on what I have.
 
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