Flotation pods on a fiberglass boat

[ChrisM76]

I have a 21 foot bay boat that I would like to add some weight capacity and raise the transom a few more inches out the water. I was just wondering if anyone has added aluminum pods onto a fiberglass boat and if so how did they work out? I can’t find anything on the internet about it but contacted Beavertail and they said that there product can be installed on a fiberglass boat. And was aware of some people doing it. Any help or advice would be gratefully appreciated

 

[kcassells]

Why is your transom so low in the water? Flooded out already? Buy a pontoon and attach it when you need to.

 

[ChrisM76]

I wanted to add a jack plate because it has a hard time getting up on plane with a full tank of fuel and two batteries in the back. And I no if I add the jack plate it’s gonna make it set even lower in the water and make the water come in the scupper drains in the floor. It’s on the verge of doing it now

 

[dingbat]

What bay boat are you running?

Trim tabs don’t help?

I would go with a bracket for additional buoyancy

 

[ChrisM76]

210cc procraft with a 150 mariner offshore on it. And it doesn’t have trim tabs on it I no they would help with getting on plane but never figured they would help with flotation. Do you think they would help? I don’t no a lot about um. And as far as a bracket they are pretty expensive and I just figured the flotation pods from Beavertail would do the same I can get a set of them for $350

 

[dingbat]

210cc procraft with a 150 mariner offshore on it. And it doesn’t have trim tabs on it I no they would help with getting on plane but never figured they would help with flotation. Do you think they would help? I don’t no a lot about um. And as far as a bracket they are pretty expensive and I just figured the flotation pods from Beavertail would do the same I can get a set of them for $350

You've identified two, unrelated and separate issues. Lets look at your problems.

Slow coming out of the hole:
1. Water logged hull
2. Operator error
3. Prop issues
4. Under powered/ tired motor

Sitting low in the water:
1. Water logged hull
2. Over rated weight limit
3. Poor Design/ Weight distribution issues
4. Maintenance issues

Obviously the first question is have you weighed the boat? A water logged hull could account for both of your issues

Second, you need some performance numbers (sped and RPM at wide open throttle) to see how the prop is performing.

btw: I would never own a both without adjustable trim tabs. They are that good.

Water coming in the cockpit drains is a little different issue.

I have yet to see a boat with cockpit drains that doesn’t get some backwash through the drains when fully loaded. It’s the nature of the beast.

If its a problem for you, there are a couple of easy solutions (scupper valves or ping pong balls) to help keep water out of the cockpit.

 

[kcon]

I'd be taking core material samples before investing in any sort of solution; as noted above could be water logged. Check the transom, stringers, deck, and core foam (if any) for water intrusion.

 

[ChrisM76]

I’ve checked the hull for waterlogged and it all seems to be in good shape from what I can tell and just checked my prop size and it’s a 22 pitch prop wich can account for getting out the hole plus just looked up the fuel tank capacity and it holds 81 gallons wich is an extra 650 pounds. It was full when I bought it and I have been keeping it full. I could cut that weight in half by only keeping it half full cause on any given day I only burn 10 to 15 gallons while I’m out fishing. Also the rpms only run around 4800 wot when it’s recommended to run 5000 to 6000. Would changing the prop to a 19 or 20 pitch help it getting up on plane? And dropping 300 pounds of fuel help with the flotation?

 

[ChrisM76]

I no a smaller pitch prop will cause me to loose speed but I’m not worried about that. Also do y’all think the jack plate would be a waste of money and add trim tabs instead

 

[JASinIL2006]

How exactly did you check the hull to see if it was waterlogged?

 

[Chris1956]

A Jackplate will not help hole shot. It could increase top speed, however, you said you were not interested in that. I think therefore, a Jackplate is not what you want.

Certainly, less fuel will add buoyancy to your hull. Can you move the fuel tank forward? Can you move the batteries forward?

A lower pitch prop will give you faster hole shot, and should allow you to go slower and stay on plane. That is good for rough water.

 

[ChrisM76]

How exactly did you check the hull to see if it was waterlogged?

I took out all the drains on the transom and scupper drains and Resealed um and all it was dry. And felt down in the access holes in the floor the best I could and all seemed dry

 

[ChrisM76]

A Jackplate will not help hole shot. It could increase top speed, however, you said you were not interested in that. I think therefore, a Jackplate is not what you want.

Certainly, less fuel will add buoyancy to your hull. Can you move the fuel tank forward? Can you move the batteries forward?

A lower pitch prop will give you faster hole shot, and should allow you to go slower and stay on plane. That is good for rough water.

I can move the batteries forward but not the fuel tank. I was gonna move um up under the console.

 

[kcon]

I took out all the drains on the transom and scupper drains and Resealed um and all it was dry. And felt down in the access holes in the floor the best I could and all seemed dry

Alright so this is a bit of work and will require you purchase some marine epoxy to fill the holes you make - but the proper way to test for water logging and rot is to drill a hole into the core at the lowest spot, you'd need to check the transom and the stringers for this - then fill the hole in with epoxy if all is well. Another method is to use a moisture meter, which is going to be more pricey and even then that won't tell the whole story and isn't always completely accurate.

I can move the batteries forward but not the fuel tank. I was gonna move um up under the console.

If you do this just be sure to use the correct gauge wiring for the distance to the engine / appliances. Extending the distance with the incorrect wire creates resistance and heat which CAN lead to a fire.

 

[ChrisM76]

Alright so this is a bit of work and will require you purchase some marine epoxy to fill the holes you make - but the proper way to test for water logging and rot is to drill a hole into the core at the lowest spot, you'd need to check the transom and the stringers for this - then fill the hole in with epoxy if all is well. Another method is to use a moisture meter, which is going to be more pricey and even then that won't tell the whole story and isn't always completely accurate.



If you do this just be sure to use the correct gauge wiring for the distance to the engine / appliances. Extending the distance with the incorrect wire creates resistance and heat which CAN lead to a fire.

I was just gonna ask what size wire would I need? I’ve been trying to figure it out with no luck on my own. It will be approximately 15ft cable length. And thanks for the info on checking more into a waterlogged hull

 

[JASinIL2006]

Alright so this is a bit of work and will require you purchase some marine epoxy to fill the holes you make - but the proper way to test for water logging and rot is to drill a hole into the core at the lowest spot, you'd need to check the transom and the stringers for this - then fill the hole in with epoxy if all is well. Another method is to use a moisture meter, which is going to be more pricey and even then that won't tell the whole story and isn't always completely accurate.

He speaketh the truth! The drill test is the best way... you can also fill the holes with something like 3M 5200 Marine Adhesive and Sealant (often available at Home Depot, Lowes, etc.).

 

[dingbat]

I no a smaller pitch prop will cause me to loose speed but I’m not worried about that. Also do y’all think the jack plate would be a waste of money and add trim tabs instead

Your over propped to the tune of 1,000-1,200 RPM. Most of any reduction in speed size would be compensated for by the increase in RPM.

I will never own a boat without adjustable tabs. Having said that, you have a number off issues to address before you add tabs.

First thing is to get the boat propped right then go from there

 

[Scott Danforth]

first, having a mariner on the boat indicates that the boat is at least a 2003 or older

being a procraft 210cc puts it mid 90's http://boatspecs.iboats.com/Procraft__210CC/bp/43br2021s0m44875

so your boat is 25-27 years old

and it sits low........

I would be test drilling..... as indication is you are probably carrying 800# of water

as stated, drill some holes in the transom and stringer and check the shavings.

light shavings that smell of fresh cut wood and are dry..... seal up the holes and move on

dark shavings that are wet and smell of rotten leaves......then planning on a full restoration.

also check your flotation foam.

regarding getting out of the hole, your way over-propped.

 

[ChrisM76]

Thanks for all the information much appreciated

 

[kcon]

Happy to help, always great when someone is receptive to advice here even when the advice is wrapped around what could be bad news, like a rotten core! In regards to what wire to use, for that length you probably want 0AWG marine wire but it really depends on your load, here is the coast guard recommendation in chart form.