Flushing Engine (150 Yamaha)

[edgutgesell]

Hi all,<br /><br />I have a 1986 150 Yamaha that I use in saltwater and would like to know if there is a better way of flushing the motor than using muffs. I currently trailer the boat, but when I flush the motor with muffs, it really makes a racket, disturbing my neighbors. I run the motor while flushing because I think I heard that flushing with muffs and not running the engine will not completely flush the engine. What do people that keep their boat at a slip do to flush their engines?? It would be great if there was a simple, inexpensive way to do it!! Thanks in advance for your replies!!<br /><br />Ed G.

 

[edgutgesell]

Re: Flushing Engine (150 Yamaha)

Me again,<br /><br />My 1986 150 Yamaha does not have a flushing port such as the newer Yamahas have. Something like a flushing port would help to answer my earlier question! Is there a way to adapt a flushing port (homebrew) to these older Yamaha engines? Am I correct that flushing with muffs without running the engine does not flush the engine properly?<br /><br />Ed G.

 

[aircat]

Re: Flushing Engine (150 Yamaha)

Hi Ed,<br /><br />I bought and installed one of these. They backflush thru the telltale port with the engine off. I don't really know how effective they are but he does have alot of satisfied customers. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...tem=4546758163&category=50439&sspagename=WDVW <br /><br />There is a similar one I saw in the Boat.US catalog recently that's actually a little cheaper.<br /><br />Craven

 

[andymach23]

Re: Flushing Engine (150 Yamaha)

Aircat<br /><br />What size of engine have you fitted it to. My 2000 5 hp 2-stroke Mariner kicker badly needs something like this. The pee hole is tiny. I see the seller says it will fit from 2hp up. Looks interesting.<br /><br />Has anyone else got a comment on this?<br /><br />Andy

 

[aircat]

Re: Flushing Engine (150 Yamaha)

Sorry, I put mine on a 225 Yamaha 2 cycle V6 (ETXD). I need to put a longer hose from the block to the outlet. It is stretched just a little bit and if you give it too much water pressure it pops off. He recommends 3/4 on for the water, but who knows what pressure that might be depending on your local water pressure. I just know I leave it on for about 8 to 10 minutes and I don't have the anxiety I used to about running the motor. I bought mine directly from him. He's in the San Francisco bay area.

 

[edgutgesell]

Re: Flushing Engine (150 Yamaha)

Hi aircat,<br /><br />That flusher sure looks like the modification I need. Is the hose from the block to the tell-tale outlet the standard engine hose or a replacement supplied in the kit? I assume that this flusher is like the flushers on the newer engines and should be used without running the engine. It is my understanding that if you want to run the engine out of the water for some reason, you must use muffs because the water pump impeller needs water for lubrication and backflushing will not get cold water to the impeller due to closed thermostats. I have also heard that if you backflush with hot water from a hot water tap that it will open the thermostats and completely flush the engine. Cold water will not open the thermostats. There is also is a device called a "Flush Muffler" that quiets the engine exhaust at the prop when running on muffs. <br /><br />Ed G.

 

[kavika]

Re: Flushing Engine (150 Yamaha)

1997 200 SWII<br />This would be added to the kit above.<br /><br />I got a Salt a Way kit and use it everytime I come back to the slip. I put a plastic quick disconnect from Lowes garden on both ends, including the engine. A female perminately on the engine cowling connector and a male on the engine hose end [which screws off to connect the hose]. Use a female non-auto shut off on the end of the kit dispenser, then you can spray the SaW when not connected to the engine flush connector. Although I may change that around, so I have the male end on the hose to give me more of a blast to clean the boat after flushing...<br /><br />The water pressure is to high for the kit at my slip. The first time I used the kit the pressure blew the blue stuff out of the cup. I got a $5 plastic pressure reducer also at Loews [$40 at west marine] and it works very well. After the engine, I use the remaining stuff on the outside of the boat. Great stuff. I do not even have to wipe down the windows...no spots.<br /><br />Also be sure to retract the tilt rods all the way. Every other [all] boats in my complex do not have the rods retracted. Tilt all the way up. Put the tilt brace down to hold the engine up. Then run the tilt down until the bottom two tilt rods are all the way in. After a while you can tell by the pump noise when they are in, without even looking. Like a starter, run the tilt pump in spurts so it will not overheat.<br /><br />Good luck.

 

[aircat]

Re: Flushing Engine (150 Yamaha)

Hi Ed,<br /><br />The hose is the standard one on the engine. On my 225 V6 the inside diameter sure seems small to me for this task, but since I'm not running the engine I'm not too worried and I do let it run for awhile. I would not run the engine on this alone. When I put it on the first time I had the valve on the adapter all the way open and the high water pressure popped the hose off the fitting at the telltale end (not the block). I now use about 3/4 open on the valve and it seems to work fine. <br /><br />I agree with Kavika, and am looking to build a hose assembly that will also let me use the Salt a Way to further clean the engine and boat.<br /><br />Good luck!