Flushing out cooling system after sucking in mud

[badrano]

Lessoned learned yesterday about one of my normal boat launch points....never again leave or return at low tide....not enough depth.
So, the obvious outcome is that I sucked up crap load of muck and was able to get to the dock and shut down just as the high temp alarm went off. Got home, put it on muffs and ran it for about 20-30 minutes before clean water was coming out the back....temp was fine the whole time.
Today, replaced the raw water impeller and back flushed just about every hose I could disconnect. Had to poke the crankcase drains with a coat hanger to unplug them, but not sure how much of that blockage was due to yesterday or due to normal crud flowing around....either way...drains are nice and clear.
What I haven't pulled/removed are the hoses attached to the ball valve T-fittings that go into the exhaust manifold or the hoses going into the cool fuel 3 module. Should this be done?
Also, if I remove the cool fuel 3 module cooling line bracket, do any o-rings or such need to be replaced before reassembling? Service Manual #40 mentions inspecting the quad rings for damage and replace if necessary.

 

[alldodge]

As always we need to know what your working on

You mentioned Manual 40 and cool fuel 3 and it's in the Merc section so it's probably safe to say you have a Merc and MPI, but other than that I know nothing

Have a serial number, maybe which MPI is it?
Is it open or closed cooling and single point, three point or seven point drain?

 

[badrano]

As always we need to know what your working on

You mentioned Manual 40 and cool fuel 3 and it's in the Merc section so it's probably safe to say you have a Merc and MPI, but other than that I know nothing

Have a serial number, maybe which MPI is it?
Is it open or closed cooling and single point, three point or seven point drain?

Is my signature not showing? I'm having a little deja vu again. I've had issues in the past. Sorry about that.

2005 Chaparral 256 SSi - MX 6.2 MPI s/n 0W061713, Bravo 3. 3 point drain, open loop.

 

[alldodge]

No my bad, sorry it was there
I'll dig into it

 

[alldodge]

Most likely the quad will be ok, but the bad part is if they are damaged I'm not finding them in the parts list. It only shows the entire hose assembly
If they were damaged could most likely find them at a NAPA store

I think you have done a good job of flushing it out. I would think about disconnect the hose after the power steering cool (item 17) and put a garden hose to it. Turn water on and disconnect a hose and watch how flows out block drains. If it's going to clog up it will be in the small channels of the block IMO

 

[Scott Danforth]

Backflush from the raw water pump to the propane. If the pump has muck in it, you need to flush the line to the thermostat.

If the thermostat housing has muck in it, you get to flush the exhaust manifolds and the long block

 

[cyclops222]

Definitely... POSITIVILY ...rod out the Water Cooled Fuel and steering coolers.

 

[badrano]

Most likely the quad will be ok, but the bad part is if they are damaged I'm not finding them in the parts list. It only shows the entire hose assembly
If they were damaged could most likely find them at a NAPA store

I think you have done a good job of flushing it out. I would think about disconnect the hose after the power steering cool (item 17) and put a garden hose to it. Turn water on and disconnect a hose and watch how flows out block drains. If it's going to clog up it will be in the small channels of the block IMO

Of course, why sell a $1.00 o-ring when you can just buy the $123 hose assembly You're right, probably could easily find the same size o-ring at a NAPA store or similar.
I was able to back flush through item 4 and water eventually comes back out the t-stat housing. I did this while the block drains were open for about 15 min while poking in them....good strong flow coming out.

What about the ball valves connected to the exh manifolds?

 

[badrano]

On a quick random tangent, are there any recommended muffs to use on merc I/O? I have the rectangular ones from west marine and I sometime have a problem getting the sea water pump to prime or is it more a water pressure issue on my end?

 

[alldodge]

What about the ball valves connected to the exh manifolds?

If the check balls get stuck open the motor will start to get hot because the balls are bypassing to much water. The check balls are for draining only

Could remove and flush but other than that I don't know

 

[Scott Danforth]

or is it more a water pressure issue on my end?

If your hose is less than 60psi, may be an issue

Are you running a 1" hose, or a 3/4" hose?

 

[Scott06]

Of course, why sell a $1.00 o-ring when you can just buy the $123 hose assembly You're right, probably could easily find the same size o-ring at a NAPA store or similar.
I was able to back flush through item 4 and water eventually comes back out the t-stat housing. I did this while the block drains were open for about 15 min while poking in them....good strong flow coming out.

What about the ball valves connected to the exh manifolds?

if you cant find them locally McMaster Carr is a good industrial supplier that is a quick ship.

 

[Lou C]

On a quick random tangent, are there any recommended muffs to use on merc I/O? I have the rectangular ones from west marine and I sometime have a problem getting the sea water pump to prime or is it more a water pressure issue on my end?

I use the round Merc/Quicksilver ones with the rod that goes thru the water intake holes and the clamp to retain it…

 

[badrano]

If your hose is less than 60psi, may be an issue

Are you running a 1" hose, or a 3/4" hose?

I'm using a 5/8" hose. Never had an issue with it when I had the 204SSi A1G2 outdrive, but maybe because the impeller was in the outdrive closer to the water inlet.
I'm going to buy the muffs mentioned in Lou C's post...maybe with the clamp I won't have as much water blowing out prior to starting and I'm also going to check what the house pressure is. When I installed the spicket I'm using, I ran 3/4" piping off of the main 3/4" line in the house.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Bravo pump and your 6.2 need more flow than your 5/8" hose can provide

 

[alldodge]

Bravo pump and your 6.2 need more flow than your 5/8" hose can provide

Only if your above 1500 right?

 

[Lou C]