Flywheel turner slipping when attempting to remove flywheel nut

[havoc_squad]

I'm in the flywheel removal stage of attempting to disassemble my 1990 OMC V4 90 hp crossflow powerhead on my workbench area.

The problem is as soon as I start getting enough torque to possibly loosen the flywheel nut, the far end tooth of the flywheel turner (Lisle) slips out.

Is there any way to minimize the slippage of the tool?

If not, which alternative would be best?

1. Get impact gun and loosen nut.

2. (A new technique seen on Youtube, yes I know some stuff is stupid) Install starter and use vise grips on the tooth area of flywheel to stop at the starter and hold it in place to loosen flywheel nut with breaker bar.

Ughh, I think I'm going to get trapped in the tool buying black hole for various items. The only/main consolation is the tool price gets greatly subsidized in comparison with paying a professional to do it.

 

[Joe Reeves]

An impact wrench would remove the nut... BUT... you don't dare use a impact wrench to put it back on!

Stop in to any automotive parts store. They'll no doubt either let you rent or loan a special tool that auto mechanics use to turn the flywheel when they're installing a pressure plate for a clutch on a standard shift vehicle... a "Spanner Wrench". This is what the majority of us use to hold a outboard flywheel.

Then there's that old trick of removing a spark plug and with the piston down somewhat, shoving a clean rag in there temporarily. As you loosen or tighten the nut, the piston rises and can't compress that rag... so the flywheel stops moving. I don't recommend this as I prefer the spanner wrench, as follows.

 

[havoc_squad]

An impact wrench would remove the nut... BUT... you don't dare use a impact wrench to put it back on!

Stop in to any automotive parts store. They'll no doubt either let you rent or loan a special tool that auto mechanics use to turn the flywheel when they're installing a pressure plate for a clutch on a standard shift vehicle... a "Spanner Wrench". This is what the majority of us use to hold a outboard flywheel.

Then there's that old trick of removing a spark plug and with the piston down somewhat, shoving a clean rag in there temporarily. As you loosen or tighten the nut, the piston rises and can't compress that rag... so the flywheel stops moving. I don't recommend this as I prefer the spanner wrench, as follows.

Yeah, I'm aware about impact guns, off only never on. With some parts I'm sure it would definitely be a one way trip.

That's why I have torque wrenches for, to see to the correct values for putting them on.

I was being extra cautious on this project being the first crossflow outboard teardown on avoiding impacts completely,

However, I think this flywheel is forcing me to re-consider that at least for the nut removal only.

The issue is the flywheel turner tool you are showing, I have a Lisle one that you would likely buy at a local auto parts store.

Not sure if the span is too big/short of the tool, but the problem is when I load up the tension on the tool, the tooth end (the end that does not pivot is sliding out of the flywheel tooth.

The issue is frustrating because when I'm about to get to the point where 100 to 120 found pounds occurs to loosen it, that tool's tooth keeps slipping out of the flywheel teeth.

I have a sufficiently good breaker bar to get this done and I know what around 100 foot pounds feels/takes to remove, as I've done my ATV rear hub nuts that are about that.


I'm wondering if I need to window show for another same tool but different span or tooth locally to work better with the flywheel. I'm still going to need that tool to torque it to spec.

 

[oldboat1]

+1 on the impact wrench for removal.

If the powerhead is removed, choices are kind of limited if you don't already have the wrench and compressor. Might be able to get it over to a shop, but it's pretty heavy. Another option might be to wedge the flywheel with a piece of wood (a little safer), and use a box wrench on the nut -- carefully hit the end of the wrench with a hammer in a counterclockwise direction to jar the nut loose.

 

[Joe Reeves]

You stated.... "The issue is frustrating because when I'm about to get to the point where 100 to 120 found pounds occurs to loosen it, that tool's tooth keeps slipping out of the flywheel teeth."

The tool pictured was my personal spanner wrench, and the above problem did exist. Notice (look closely) about 2" from the curved end and you may notice a burnt area where I heated it with a hand held propane torch and increased the curvature ever so slightly to fie the curvature of the flywheel. Perhaps I was lucky but that one heated bend ended up being a "Fit All" flywheel thing.

 

[Tim Frank]

Does your flywheel have the 3 hole pattern to attach a puller?

I use a 2' section of hockey stick handle with two holes drilled in it. These are bolted to the flywheel. Lots of leverage to counter rotation when removing the nut.

A piece of hardwood 1"x2" would also do if hockey stick handles are hard to come by.

 

[Joe Reeves]

I use a 2' section of hockey stick handle with two holes drilled in it. These are bolted to the flywheel. Lots of leverage to counter rotation when removing the nut..

Yeah, good one!... I had completely forgotten about that. I've seen that done a few times, usually with a flat piece of steel with a couple holes drilled in it.

 

[jimmbo]

Then there's that old trick of removing a spark plug and with the piston down somewhat, shoving a clean rag in there temporarily. As you loosen or tighten the nut, the piston rises and can't compress that rag... so the flywheel stops moving. I don't recommend this as I prefer the spanner wrench, as follows.

I've used a rope instead of a piece of cloth, it worked, but immobilizing the Flywheel is a better way

 

[Joe Reeves]

Jimbo... Yes, absolutely... rope would be the proper choice if going that route to jam the flywheel. I've no idea why I stated "rag".

Must have been out of rope the day I typed that!

 

[oldboat1]

Well, I like the hockey stick suggestion -- but don't think I have one handy. I do have one or two old lawn mower blades. Thinking one of those might be repurposed!

 

[Mohawkmtrs]

Why not buy (or make) a strap wrench of a suitable length.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Well, I like the hockey stick suggestion -- but don't think I have one handy. I do have one or two old lawn mower blades. Thinking one of those might be repurposed!

I wanna watch'ya cut the grass with that thing!

 

[oldboat1]

Ha! Dual purpose, then! :thumb:

 

[havoc_squad]

I wanna watch'ya cut the grass with that thing!

Umm, did you or Joe end up retiring from marine service work and start doing lawn equipment repair?


I'm afraid you both might be heading towards the direction of this lawn mower repair guy on Youtube at the link below... Taryl Fixes All.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3gzappJ4ep8&list=PL-xkNBjnenDD2Qp_hS859IseDTHug6C5r&index=5


At this time, I am currently deciding which route I'm going for impact gun to remove nut while I had to deal with other things more pressing short term.

Not sure if I want to go the 21 gal oiled 4 CFM air compressor, hose, and appropriate air impact for that CFM, corded impact, or cordless lithium ion impact.

 

[flyingscott]

Electric $40 impact from Harbor freight will take that off.

 

[spybot]

Once you have the nut off. Check out the secret files at the top of the forum front page.

 

[Joe Reeves]

I'm afraid you both might be heading towards the direction of this lawn mower repair guy on Youtube at the link below... Taryl Fixes All.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3gzappJ4ep8&list=PL-xkNBjnenDD2Qp_hS859IseDTHug6C5r&index=5

That guy must have a terrible fear of dentists. (ugh)

 

[havoc_squad]

That guy must have a terrible fear of dentists. (ugh)

I'm sure you are aware that's a fake mouth insert he has, but he's probably 100% legitimate hillbilly/redneck as shown.

I'd be well entertained if he expanded into the marine service business, however some may cringe or be scared of that thought instead.