Foam Replacement in Hull bonding new to old foam

MCKeenewb

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Sep 24, 2020
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I have a McKee Craft 16 footer with the well-known waterlogged foam problem. Cheks of various areas seem to indicate that the foam in the deck and the bow are pretty well saturated, but that the gunnels may be OK.

I'm going to pull up the deck and replace the foam. I know some folks try to dry it out, but I don't see that happening here. I also know others say to use it if it floats... ride it like you stole it. That option is entirely incompatible with my relatively picky nature.

That leaves pulling up the deck and replacing the foam.

My question is: When I pull up the deck and carve out all the bad foam there, assuming the gunnels and parts of the bow are still relatively dry/usable, will he newly poured foam bond to the existing foam? I'd like to just cut the decks and replace the foam there, bonding the new foam to the old.

Thoughts?
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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first, welcome aboard

second, the foam in the gunwales is usually separated from the foam anywhere else

third, its obvious from your question, you have not ever used 2-part foam. the stuff will stick to anything dry..... it will stick to fiberglass, wood, gel, windows, your skin, your tools, etc.
 

MCKeenewb

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Yep, first time. since you seem to know... my thought was to pull up the deck, get the old nasty foam out of there, let the wood under the deck dry.

Then, make 2 or 3 access holes for foam pouring as well as foam over expansion along the deck. I figure those, plugs the cuts from removing the deck will give enough outlet for excess foam.

I'll put the deck back on and hold it in place for foaming with small strips of wood (similar to furring strips in drywall repair) then, pour. cut off whatever squishes out front he cuts and access holes, re-glass the hols and cuts... and go fishing (OK, well, go onto the next part of the restoration :) ...

That seem like how it's done? See any potential problems/issues I should be aware of?
 

GSPLures

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Once you have to deck out make sure to check for rot anywhere else since the floor will be up
 

MCKeenewb

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Once you have to deck out make sure to check for rot anywhere else since the floor will be up

Yep, I was planning on just getting a general look around throughout the exposed area of the hull, since I've already gone through the effort--might as well take a good look around. The few samples I've taken so far with a hole saw, the wood under the fiberglass is still good, just wet... Since as I understand it, this boat doesn't have stringers etc., I don't think there is much wood to rot, and I am relatively hopeful there is no fiberglass 'rot' or de-lamination.

Already replaced the transom...

I'm guessing I could scrap the project and look for something else, but I like learning new things, and this is definitely new. Besides, I got the boat, with trailer and an outboard in exchange for a $400 gun. Hell, the trailer and outboard would be enough to merit that, and now I have something I can get dirty and irritated about :p
 

GSPLures

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I wouldn't scrap it, if all it needs is a deck and foam you are way ahead of the game. But if the wood is wet I would replace it, and try to figure out how it got wet and make the neccessary repairs. No point in going through the effort to have it or something else fail shortly after.
 

Scott Danforth

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FYI - the floor is the last to rot. normally years after the transom and stringers rot due to wet foam. so expect to need to replace transom and stringers.

set aside between $2000 and $3000 for materials, incidentals, etc. for a typical hull restoration. set aside about the same amount for interior work
 

JASinIL2006

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Feb 10, 2012
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5,737
If you have wet, saturated foam, you'll be one-in-a-million lucky if the wood structure is intact. If the wood is saturated but not yet rotted, it might be very tricky to get it to dry since it usually will be encapsulated in fiberglass. Some folks have had some luck treating limited areas of wet (but not rotted) wood by injecting antifreeze into the wood. I don't have any experience in doing that, but if you look around a bit, you can find some threads that describe the process.

Not to wish extra work on you, but my money is on the boat needing more work than new foam and a new deck.
 

tpenfield

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What boat ??? I don't see any boat :noidea:

Got any pics to share?
 

KJM

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Even if the top part of the foam seems dry, its likely wet on the bottom, the water settles to the lowest point. You already replaced the transom? I take it that was rotten. Are the stringers just fiberglass, no wood?
 
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