Force 120 L-drive no fuel delivery from pump

[boaterino]

Bayliner capri with a force 120 L drive. It sat over winter, trying to start it and it doesn't appear to be pulling gas through the dual stage pump. I pulled the pump off, checked valves and diaphram and it appears to be fine. Blew/sucked through the hose connectors and its air tight. When I disconnected hoses, the fuel lines to the tanks were bone dry as if the pump hadnt pulled any fuel. Any thoughts? I verified the pickup tibe isnt plugged up to the pump filter.

 

[jerryjerry05]

The year? serial#?
Some of the L drives had an electrical fuel pump in the system(year/serial/model/hullID)

Squeeze ball pump anything?
They can be bad right out of the box.
Unhook at the pump side and squeeze and see if anything is drawn from the tank?
Fuel in the tank?

 

[Redbarron%%]

An L drive should not have a hand bulb as it is classified as an inboard engine. The setup should have an electrical priming pump. All of the fuel plumbing should meet the inboard specifications even with the outboard style engine used. The Sport Jets are the same.
If there is even a tiny leak in the line from the tank to the pump the pump will suck air instead of fuel. I assume you checked it you could perhaps suck some fuel from the tank (By whatever means).

 

[boaterino]

its a 1990 Bayliner Capri BL3C31CPC090 Engine model 120LD90C US Marine Power. Where would the electrical priming pump be, there is no bulb? I dont see one listed in the seloc manual. I did check the line from the tank to the pump and there are no leaks.

 

[boaterino]

I think I found it, by the carbs, brass looking gizmo activated by pushing in key, just had to read a bit further.

 

[boaterino]

Welp nope. Thats just a solenoid to activate the linkage on the choke for the carbs. Fuel line goes like so: fuel tank --> fuel pump --> carb 1 --> carb 2. Theres nothing in between any of that. According to seloc manual it should be on the port side of the intake mounted between the carbs. I dont see anything like that.

 

[Redbarron%%]

You could use a hand priming bulb and the manufacturer might have installed one, but the bulb would not meet these specs (probably):
(2) From the fuel tank to the fuel inlet connection on the engine must be:
(i) "USCG Type A1"; or
(ii) "USCG Type B1" if no more than five ounces of fuel is discharged in 2-1/2 minutes when:
(A) The hose is severed at the point where maximum drainage of fuel would occur,
(B) The boat is in its static floating position, and
(C) The fuel system is filled to the capacity marked on the tank label under Sec. 183.514(b)(3).
For getting the fuel started to the engine mounted fuel pump you could use a bulb, but I removed mine on my sport jet and installed a electric solid state low pressure fuel pump.
I did use the bulb originally. You could have a stuck anti drain valve in the tank.
Crud could have collected there and gummed up over the winter.
Since you mentioned connector for fuel lines I assume you are talking about removable outboard tanks like used above deck. These may not be used below deck as the L drive is classified an inboard and "permanent" fuel tanks with over the side venting is required as well.

 

[jerryjerry05]

The 1990 120 didn't have a electric pump or primer/choke.
Has a mechanical choke next to the carbs.

They had trouble with the fuel pump trying to draw fuel up to the motor.
It's such a low pressure pump1-3# that sometimes it just wouldn't work.
It was about that time they added a spring to the fuel pump in the diaphragm to improve the performance(didn't really work)

Were I worked we installed a squeeze ball to delete that problem.

Adding an electric fuel pump can be dangerous if not installed right. BOOOM.

Most outbooards don't have an antisiphon valve at the tank.The pump's low pressure won't suck past it.

 

[Redbarron%%]

Remember that although the engine on the L drive is an outboard engine it is an inboard installation.
It needs to be treated just like it is an inboard installation with a vent fan and the plumbing to meet the specifications.
In my case I use an electric pump (sealed electrically, etc.) for a primer. You should not be using an outboard style tank, unless it is kept on deck in free air. That would almost mean that the tank is located higher in relationship to the engine and the draw would not be as difficult for the engine driven pump.
I assume the boat worked before this failure so the trick would be to find out what has changed, interfering with the drawing for the fuel.

 

[jerryjerry05]

The electrical pump needs to be Coast Guard approved and installed right.