Force 125 1988 Water drains out the exhaust

[ggausa]

I just started working on a 1988 force 125 outboard and it runs fine but would not push water through the engine out the normal water ejection holes. Thought it was the impeller and replaced that. Still no pressure through the engine. After more research I found that the water is going up the normal pipe from the impeller to the engine. But, than it just comes out the exhaust pipe. If I use the hose and send enough water directly up the pipe to the engine it will finally come out the normal water ejection holes. But 95% comes directly out the exhaust.
Before I tear everything down. Does anyone have an idea or advice on what I need to fix to correct this? Thanks

 

[Nordin]

When you run it, did you run it with muffs or in the water?
When running on muffs your are just able to idle cause the water flow from a garden hose do not deliver the amount of water the engine need.
The impeller produce more water flow then the garden hose can deliver.
When running with muffs you need to get a tight surface for the rubber "ears" to the gear case.
My experience is that to much water leaks from the muffs if you do not tight it with some kind of duct tape.
Check the thermostat and check temperature at the power head with a infra red temperature gun.
BTW I have run my youngest sons 1988 85Hp Force with muffs and it is hard to get a tight surface for the muffs and most of the water goes through exhaust snout/propeller. (it has a dual exhaust gear case).

 

[jerryjerry05]

Thank goodness you asked before tearing things apart!!!
You might not EVER see water coming from the 2 holes in the mid section.
Those are for excess pressure release.
Like Nordin said most water goes out with the exhaust.
Depending on the muffs?? you might need to use duct tape when you run the motor on the hose.
The bottom of the block is a small cover with 2 TINY screws.
That covers the pressure relief mechanism( plug and spring) that releases the excess pressure/water, if it's not seized? Later models didn't have this.

 

[ggausa]

Thank goodness you asked before tearing things apart!!!
You might not EVER see water coming from the 2 holes in the mid section.
Those are for excess pressure release.
Like Nordin said most water goes out with the exhaust.
Depending on the muffs?? you might need to use duct tape when you run the motor on the hose.
The bottom of the block is a small cover with 2 TINY screws.
That covers the pressure relief mechanism( plug and spring) that releases the excess pressure/water, if it's not seized? Later models didn't have this.

Hi Jerry and Nordin
Thanks for offering your knowledge. I’m going to take another look this weekend with this new info. I will let you know how it goes.
FYI - I actually am not using the muffs. They really don’t fit well on this motor so I am using a tub. Also I was testing try to get water to come out the pressure relief holes by connecting the tube that goes directly up to the upper engine directly to the end of the hose (not while the engine was running).

 

[racerone]

When testing in a bucket you need water about 6" ( 15 cm ) above the impeller.

 

[Nordin]

ggausa, as racerone says you need to get the water level above the impeller housing.
The impeller is not self priming it need water in the impeller housing.
When running in a bucket you need a deeper bucket, the water level need to be about 4-5 inch above the LU split line.

 

[jerryjerry05]

When using the hose direct to the copper tube, the regular house pressure isn't enough(most cases) to activate the pressure release.
The impeller/pump can pump a LOTTTT of water, usually more than the hose
can produce and in the water you have access to millions of gallons and the hose comes no where near the output of the lake/ocean.
Like the others said, DEEEEPP in a bucket.