Force 125 tilt and trim.

[Bkok33]

Hey everyone, have a problem with my trim and tilt. It was working great a couple weeks ago and was moving my boat and it started to lift up then died. Thought it was my battery so charged it and tried to move it and same thing. Tried another battery same thing, checked the wiring and it's fine. In the past of a period of time it would start to drop down due to low fluid filled it up and it's still doing it. Have a feeling the pump is shot hoping its not. Any ideas or if it is bad where can I get one for a descent price and what do you recommend? Thanks for all your time.

 

[tommarvin]

Hey welcome, you have T&T leakdown, you need to replace two rubber washers, in the pump, and you don't remove any hydraulic lines, you don't even remove the pump from the boat.
You need a washer from a Briggs & Stratton Kit # 398188 costs 3-5 bucks for the kit, you need two kits per pump.
There's a snap ring you remove to get to the washers.
If oil is coming out of the seal of a ram, you need to replace the seal on the ram, if not don't touch the ram or shock absorber ram.
We have a 1988 125hp , were going to fix ours after boating season, to much risk if a bolt snaps off or other problems, live with it until your boating season is over, be safe out there.

 

[Jiggz]

So what exactly is the problem? The T&T motor will not turn over? Or the T&T motor turns over but the T&T will neither go up or down? Have you tried jumpering the T&T motor directly to the battery to see if it will at least turn over. There is also a circuit breaker protecting the T&T did you reset it?

 

[jerryjerry05]

IF?? it slowly leaked down??
.Then it's probably the pump.
Does it leak all the way down?

Get a factory manual it has procedures for testing the T/T system.
It will tell you if it's the pump or the trim ram.

Tom what 2 washers in the pump?
Snap ring?Both of mine drift down and I want to fix them.
How do you replace anything in the pump without removing it?
CMWK??

 

[Bkok33]

Thanks everyone. So the T&T will start moving The motor up then it stops. The switch is still up and nothing happens. If I move it to the down position nothing happens. If I wait 5-10 minutes it will run for a short time again then stops. It slowly bleeds down but does stop. Which I know is from low fluid. Went to someone at the marina and they said its shorting out in the motor and it's a safety feature to keep from burning your motor up on the pump. He said its best to get a new motor and pump. Anyone know where to get a pump and motor for a decent price. Was quoted $400 for it at the marina. Think I can do better then that.

 

[Jiggz]

Sounds like the motor thermal overload is tripping due to high current either with a shorted motor or high mechanical load. You might want to dismount the motor from the pump and test again. If it continues to trip, then the motor is shorted or simply worn out bearings, etc. If not, then there could be a mechanical problem with the pump. New motor and pump made from Asia are not that good either. You'll be better off just getting used one from the bidding store.

Personally, being cheap I will open and inspect both motor and pump just to see if it's still repairable. Of course, that is just me.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Like Jiggz suggested tear it apart and see what's happening inside.(I'm cheap too)
​Could be the armature is bad, or the brushes bad, or water got in?
This combined with the leakdown can be a problem.
Never saw a thermal overload on any 125 Force pumps.
It helps if you include a year or model maybe the serial#
It has a circuit breaker but that's usually for the motor.
Some units had a second breaker but only on later 120/125's or 90/ 85's

 

[Bkok33]

Thank you all. I think I might have an air bubble and it was causing all my problems and will bleed it this weekend. Had a friend say he had this problem and put my fluid in the pump and bleed it. So I am gonna give it a try.

 

[jerryjerry05]

An air bubble won't stop the electric motor from running.

​E-bay is good for parts.
Be careful as some describe their parts as a complete unit but don't include the hyd. pump.
Remember cheaper is not always better.
A customer brought a pump housing/electric motor to me to replace.
The electric motors armature shaft was 1/4in too short.
Was missing a brush.

This was bought on e-bay a long time ago before the customer service got better.
He lost $290.
Now the service on E-bay and PP are great.

 

[KScott78]

Hey welcome, you have T&T leakdown, you need to replace two rubber washers, in the pump, and you don't remove any hydraulic lines, you don't even remove the pump from the boat.
You need a washer from a Briggs & Stratton Kit # 398188 costs 3-5 bucks for the kit, you need two kits per pump.
There's a snap ring you remove to get to the washers.
If oil is coming out of the seal of a ram, you need to replace the seal on the ram, if not don't touch the ram or shock absorber ram.
We have a 1988 125hp , were going to fix ours after boating season, to much risk if a bolt snaps off or other problems, live with it until your boating season is over, be safe out there.

Hi Tom, Could you please provide more information on this? I'm having a leakdown issue as well and would like to try this.

thanks!
Ken

 

[jerryjerry05]

KScott78 sent U a PM.

​The first posts in the Force forum have test procedures for the T@T .
Check the motor like Jiggz suggested .

 

[slx12001]

Hey welcome, you have T&T leakdown, you need to replace two rubber washers, in the pump, and you don't remove any hydraulic lines, you don't even remove the pump from the boat.
You need a washer from a Briggs & Stratton Kit # 398188 costs 3-5 bucks for the kit, you need two kits per pump.
There's a snap ring you remove to get to the washers.
If oil is coming out of the seal of a ram, you need to replace the seal on the ram, if not don't touch the ram or shock absorber ram.
We have a 1988 125hp , were going to fix ours after boating season, to much risk if a bolt snaps off or other problems, live with it until your boating season is over, be safe out there.

Could you please provide more info about the 2 rubber washers from the Briggs needle and seat to fix bleeding down TT? Are they behind the number 33 snap ring on the TT break down? Thanks for any info

 

[Bkok33]

So I put more fluid in and bled the system. The pump is now lifting and lowering the motor. However it still has some let down. Guessing I might have to change some of the gaskets Tom talked about. Will wait for after the boating season.