johnp34
Seaman Apprentice
- Joined
- Jul 11, 2007
- Messages
- 30
Please bare with the long explanation but want to include all of the details...
My Force 50 hp 507Y8C outboard is on a 17' aluminum Blue Fin. I changed the spark plugs since the current plugs where not listed as recommended and thought it would provide more power. The new plugs provide 6 hp more (17mph to 23 mph) and it ran great the first time out. The next time out on the water it began to bogg down and react as if the fuel vent was closed. It was moving about 1/4 speed at full throttle. I replaced the fuel since it had been sitting. Ran the motor again with the same results. A mechanic checked and told me the cylinder was not getting a spark. At this point the engine would just crank without attempting to sputter. I checked the coil and it didn't seem to be seated properly, bolts were tight but it was rocking. I removed the bolts and the blue wire was pressed between the back of the coil and the housing bolt. The insulation was worn/burned and the conductor was touching the housing, grounded out. I repaired the wire and re-mounted the coil. The motor started up instantly, no hesitation.
I went out on the water to test further. The first 10 minutes it ran at full speed then began to behave the same, little power with throttle at full position then finally cutting out. It would start easily but when put into gear it would cut out. Finally had to put into gear and push throttle down fast to run. Ran it was far as I could then it died again. Seems strange that it wasn't starting again but after I fixed the physical wire issue. The shorted wire must not have effected components down the line since it ran great the first 10 minutes. Therefore, I decided to investigate the fuel system.
Disconnected the fuel line from fuel pump. Fuel flowed when the bulb was pumped. Removed the fuel pump and dis-assembled. Diaphragm appeared ok along with the valves. There were no tears in the diaphragm and not sure how to check the valves other than replacing them. Would like to replace the permanent valves too if possible. The inner hose between the fuel pump and engine housing (short 2-3") had no clamps, was hardened and actually spun on the connections.
I plan to rebuild the fuel pump, replace all hoses with E-10 resistant material, new clamps, fuel bulb & hoses on tank, proper plugs.
If the problem persists I will rebuild carb then consider looking into electrical. Let me know what options I have with replacing all of the valves, I didn't see springs - not sure if they are required. Would also like a better understand of what the other connection (inner hose) of the fuel pump connects to - one is from the fuel tank and the other goes to the carb but not sure why the other goes into the housing (since it is mounted to the cylinder there is already a source to move the diaphragm).
Does this sound like I am moving in the right direction or does anyone have comments?
My Force 50 hp 507Y8C outboard is on a 17' aluminum Blue Fin. I changed the spark plugs since the current plugs where not listed as recommended and thought it would provide more power. The new plugs provide 6 hp more (17mph to 23 mph) and it ran great the first time out. The next time out on the water it began to bogg down and react as if the fuel vent was closed. It was moving about 1/4 speed at full throttle. I replaced the fuel since it had been sitting. Ran the motor again with the same results. A mechanic checked and told me the cylinder was not getting a spark. At this point the engine would just crank without attempting to sputter. I checked the coil and it didn't seem to be seated properly, bolts were tight but it was rocking. I removed the bolts and the blue wire was pressed between the back of the coil and the housing bolt. The insulation was worn/burned and the conductor was touching the housing, grounded out. I repaired the wire and re-mounted the coil. The motor started up instantly, no hesitation.
I went out on the water to test further. The first 10 minutes it ran at full speed then began to behave the same, little power with throttle at full position then finally cutting out. It would start easily but when put into gear it would cut out. Finally had to put into gear and push throttle down fast to run. Ran it was far as I could then it died again. Seems strange that it wasn't starting again but after I fixed the physical wire issue. The shorted wire must not have effected components down the line since it ran great the first 10 minutes. Therefore, I decided to investigate the fuel system.
Disconnected the fuel line from fuel pump. Fuel flowed when the bulb was pumped. Removed the fuel pump and dis-assembled. Diaphragm appeared ok along with the valves. There were no tears in the diaphragm and not sure how to check the valves other than replacing them. Would like to replace the permanent valves too if possible. The inner hose between the fuel pump and engine housing (short 2-3") had no clamps, was hardened and actually spun on the connections.
I plan to rebuild the fuel pump, replace all hoses with E-10 resistant material, new clamps, fuel bulb & hoses on tank, proper plugs.
If the problem persists I will rebuild carb then consider looking into electrical. Let me know what options I have with replacing all of the valves, I didn't see springs - not sure if they are required. Would also like a better understand of what the other connection (inner hose) of the fuel pump connects to - one is from the fuel tank and the other goes to the carb but not sure why the other goes into the housing (since it is mounted to the cylinder there is already a source to move the diaphragm).
Does this sound like I am moving in the right direction or does anyone have comments?
