Force 9.9

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Bumper1990

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Ok guys I got a project motor it's a force 9.9 model 92f8a. guy said it ran 10yrs ago that was the last he used it. Its in very nice shape good compression fuel system seems ok but I dont have spark at either plug. I took the flywheel off and I'm not 100% sure what I'm looking at or how to check everything I know I have resistance at every wire except from the end of the spark plug wire to anything on the magneto if that makes sense I will try to upload pictures and see what you guys think.thanks in advance!!
 

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Bumper1990

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Here's some additional photos just for reference and maybe year clarification. I found it to be a 1988 but I'm not 100%
 

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Nordin

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Your engine has a regular old school magneto ignition system.
It contains two ignition coils, two sets of points and two condensers.

Check out all wires under the flywheel for bad insulation, cracks or worn wires.
Clean the points and gap them to 020 in. Then check for spark.

These components usually not go bad expect for the condensers that dries out.

Check the sping in the HT wires rubber boot. They can be rusty and it will make bad connection to the plugs.
 

Bumper1990

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Thank you fo the reply I will try those things. The switches upfront my kill switches correct me if I'm wrong but there just normally open switches that ground out when engaged right? So if I leave both of them unplugged it should run?
 

Bumper1990

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Ok I'll try cleaning the points and I am going to check the condensers tonight. If I take the points off to clean them is that going to mess up my timing? Is there a way to mess up the timing on these? I'm not real familiar with the points and condensers as a whole and this is my first "project boat motor" so sorry for all the should have known that questions but I do thank ya for all the help
 

Nordin

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You can not mess up the timing because it is fixed. The spark advance is fixed by the throttle cam.
Clean the points and gap to 020 at highest point at the cam loob.

If you pull of the carb you may have to adjust the throttle pick up point.
If you look close at the throttle cam at the timing plate there is a marking line.
When the throttle roller touch the cam the carb butterfly should start to move when the roller is at the marking line.
If not, adjust at the screw at left of the carb attached to the roller pin.

Condensers are hard to check.
If you have a VOM that can measure capacitor (Farad) you can check if the value is right.
BUT condensers are sensitive to heat and change performance if the temperature rise.

A normal symtom is that the engine runs well when cold and then starts to misfire when warm.
 
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Bumper1990

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Ok so I cleaned the points tonight got spark! Not 100% happy with how I gapped them so I want to fine tune tomorrow so here's my question with flywheel off I can set one point then turn the motor over 180° and set the other point correct? That should go from one high love to the other? Like I said I apologize for any dumb questions I'm new to setting points I know I got one right because I had good spark and it tries to fire but I think the second cylinder has little or no spark plus when I tried setting that point I could gap it just right seemed to have tension on it. Thank you everyone for the help I'm happy to have half spark right now any help with fine tuning is appreciated!
 

Bumper1990

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Also jerryjerry I agree with u on the pump but I wanted to focus on getting spark first I tend to jump around alot so I'm trying to stay focused on one thing at a time. How will I know if the pump is bad though will it fire at all? Or just not run wide open? I did clean the carb already it was surprisingly clean no dirt in bowl jets all open those spring clips the use to hold the line on are wrench throwers though man are they a pain!
 

jerryjerry05

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Pump: when you squeeze the ball and it doesn't get firm, then the pump might be bad.
Also if the diaphragm is bad it will allow fuel to flow into the cyl.

Yes that's how you set the points I think it's lobe not love:)
 

Bumper1990

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Haha got to love auto correct well I know the primer bulb does get hard and it actually held that same hardness for two days that's more of what I mean by the system seems ok because it didn't have any leaks. I'm gonna fiddle with the points tonight and thank you for the part number I did find one on marineengine for 6$ im gonna order that and an impeller so I have them just in case
 

Bumper1990

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As you can see my points were very dirty I took them off and cleaned them thoroughly my next question is the dash after wico Is that showing my top dead center? Or high lobe ? I'm just curious if that's the mark to go off of to set the points exact
 

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jerryjerry05

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That's where the points can be set and it's also used for more precise timing.
If you can get a factory manual for your motor?? They explain the details.
You also need a special timing light.
Just set them, they should be close enough.

$6 that include shipping?
 

Bumper1990

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Thanks fir the info and yea the Mercury (Quicksilver) diaphragm was 9.40 and an aftermarket was 6.20 I doubt that's with shipping but I am thinking of grabbing that and an impeller right away
 

Bumper1990

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So I have to thank you guys for all the help the force has awaken (bad starwars joke) runs good idles good but new problem impeller doesn't want to work at least that's what I'm pretty sure it is those four bolts should drop the lower unit but what about the shift linkage anything I need to watch there? One more step and I'm ready for water
 

Nordin

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Loose the four bolts at the lower unit, put the gear in forward (the shift rod will go down) and you will got more space.
The lower unit will drop another 1/2 in.
Now you will see and access the shift rod couple. It is just an allen screw that hold the upper and lower shift rod together.

Check and look how the rods are fitted together, each rod has a flat surface that is not in the center line of the rod.

When put the lower unit back after changing the impeller be sure the water tube enter the impeller housing and that the shift rods get back together with the above mention surfaces right.
 
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jerryjerry05

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If you change the gear oil??
Change the seals if they are the plastic ones.
Mercury, Johnson, Evinrude has fiber washers, they work best and can be re-used.
Yamaha seals are too small.

Glad it's alive!!
 

Bumper1990

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I'm going to work on that this week I did already change the gear oil got to agree those plastic washer aren't very good will keep you guys updated on progress also just out of curiosity what can I expect out of this motor all I ever had were omc force seems to be a love hate thing should it be dependable? I know as in everything proper maintenance is key
 

jerryjerry05

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ANY motor OMC/johnson, Yamaha, Mercury, Force/Chrysler.
If it's maintained will outlive it's owner.

The one's better than the other?? B.S.

Some are way more expensive.
Some are engineered different 2 vs.4 stroke.
Most bigger motors (past 25hp) are built to resist salt water, some better than others.
Force/Chrysler and older motors had almost no resistance to salt water.
4 strokes are heavier.

I'd buy a Chrysler after 76 and any Force small motor any day.!!

Parts are available for most small motors.
The Chrysler and Force are easier to work on.
 

Bumper1990

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Ok guys got the lower unit off I WILL be replacing the impeller but I included a picture does it look bad enough not to pump water? Seems like it is set but not horrible. Could I possibly have a blocked line somewhere? I did blow it out best I could with an airline and ran weed Wacker line through the pee hole and everything not 100% sure if this little motor has a thermostat I'm guessing not just looking for opinions as always and thank you for the positive comment I know alot of guys are brand particular I'm just happy when they run
 

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