Force Carburetor needle seat replacement

[sidenberg]

I can not find a new press-in needle seat for my 1987 Force 125 hp. The rubber seal inside the seat is toast. I can not find the replacement anywhere. The only ones I find available are the screw-on type. Does anyone know if the seat for a 1989 Force 125 will work on a 1987 or does anyone know where I can find one that will fit?

 

[john from md]

Re: Force Carburetor needle seat replacement

Buy a carb rebuild kit from mercruiserparts.com, crowleymarine.com, maybe even iboats has them. They have the seat, bowl gaskets, the ball bearings if you should take them out (DON'T) and some other stuff. Look for the little box illustrations on the carb schematics.

John

 

[sidenberg]

Re: Force Carburetor needle seat replacement

Thank you John. I panicked when I saw the seat and needle as no longer available individually and assumed the worst. I ordered the kit. I do not see anything about a ball bearing that you mentioned. Where is it located and what is it for?

I am bringing this motor back from the dead after the previous owner let it sit for some time and apparently "attempted" to fix things. (I intend to shoot him after it is all done.) This carburetor rebuild should be the last item to correct.

 

[john from md]

Re: Force Carburetor needle seat replacement

Opps, wrong carb. The carbs on the Force use Welch plugs which are flat round pieces of metal. (Don't take them out either as it is not needed.)

I suggest you go to the FAQ in the iboats maintenance forum and look up the thread about "waking a sleeping motor". It has much good info for engines of unknown condition.

John

 

[sidenberg]

Re: Force Carburetor needle seat replacement

With regards to the needle seat on this motor, 1987 Force 125 HP, 1251X7B.
The press in-seat is brass with a small rubber seal inside at the bottom of the seat that the point of the needle inserts into. It is hard to tell from the parts diagram, but does the replacement part include the needle and just the rubber seal so that the brass seat itself does not need to be removed?

 

[john from md]

Re: Force Carburetor needle seat replacement

All you have to replace is the rubber o ring that the needle sits in. Older ones were green and tended to swell with E10. I forget the color of the new E10 friendly rings.

John

 

[sidenberg]

Re: Force Carburetor needle seat replacement

Good. Hopefully the rubber o ring will be in the Fk10103-2 carb kit I ordered. I intend to call in the morning to verify. Since I already had to replace the rubber gasket on the fuel tank send unit, it makes sense that other rubber items in the fuel system would be bad as well. Are there any other rubber items in the fuel system that you are aware of in this motor that may need replacement. Your help and knowledge is very much appreciated. I came across this Force motor by accident and now I am dedicated (obsessed) with getting it running decently again. Thank you.

 

[john from md]

Re: Force Carburetor needle seat replacement

The only other items that are known to react badly with E10 are the three check valves in the fuel pump. If they are a translucent orange or clear color, they are the older valves and will start sticking. The new valves are a charcoal grey color. Changing two of the check valves is easy, the third is in a blind hole and requires using a dremel tool and some prying.

John

 

[cbercaw]

Re: Force Carburetor needle seat replacement

John, Can you describe getting to this third check valve and explain how to remove it? I have an 88 50HP that I would like to do this on. If the valves are bad, could this cause flooding to my little engine? Thanks

 

[john from md]

Re: Force Carburetor needle seat replacement

One check valve can be removed by unscrewing two screws. The second can be drifted out from one side as it sits across two chambers. The third is pressed into a blind hole. There was a special puller for this when they were making the engines but I haven't seen one in a long time.

You have to pull the one in the blind hole out using the center of the valve. I use a dremel tool with a small carbide rotary head to carefully cut away the valve near the pump body. I do this almost down to the body in two spots. I then take a heated, bent and re hardened screw driver and wedge it in and twist. The valve usually breaks in one of the weakened areas and then comes out easily.

To install the new one, you put some lube on it and tap it in using a socket that sits around the edge of the valve.

John