Force Tilt & Trim Pivot Rod

jjmesa2000

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Joined
Mar 22, 2006
Messages
13
Force Tilt & Trim Pivot Rod

I recently boat a Four Winns with a Force 125. I did my preventitive maintenence and found the oil in the reservior milky white ( I suspect water found its way). So i decide to change the seals and O-rings on the whole tilt and trim assembly, down to the tilt cylinder. The problem is that the bushing is worn and I can seem to get the pivot rods out. I have been using a brass punch to no avail. I'll have to end up replacing the bushings anyways. I can't access the bottom bushings to tear away to let the bottom rod slide out...Anyone who had a similiar siutation your advice will be most welcome.
 

RRitt

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Joined
Mar 30, 2006
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Re: Force Tilt & Trim Pivot Rod

Re: Force Tilt & Trim Pivot Rod

I am doing same and had similar problems with bushings. At first I wanted to keepmy bushings because mercury wants $28 each and I have two engines. $110 in bushings did not sit well with me. In the end, I ended up having to cut them out by making them into swiss cheese with a drill. For replacement I used the energy suspension polyester shock-eye #98116. Use a serated knife to trim it down to proper length. It will be a very tight fit into your cylinder eyes. After installation, use well lubricated drill bit to clean out the hole to 9/16". Works perfectly and only costs $2 per bushing.<br /><br />In the end, rebuilding my trim tabs was a bad idea. I thought it was preventative maintenance that would turn out easy. Ha! Wrong, wrong, and wrong.<br /><br />Mercury does not sell all of the o-rings that you will need. Nor will the average plumbing store. I had to order them in bulk and ended up spending $90 on o-rings. If you have to trash your trim mounting shaft, don't sweat it. A better than original is available for $8 each. Use a 5/8" internally threaded aluminum shaft. The aluminum to aluminum surfaces will have fewer corrosion problems. Cut it long enough for flat washers and lockwashers on each end. Same with pivot shaft (if you ever have your motor off). Solid core industrial aluminum replacement only costs $8 and will keep your steering silky smooth for decades. Way better than mercury's $80 piece of hollow core iron.<br /><br />Here is my listing of o-rings that you will need. The part numbers are industry standard rather than gold plated mercury. I bumped the valve body up to 3/32" from 1/16" so that I could use them on shift cover. I like to replace shift cover o-ring everytime I replace the impeller. A 3/32" quad ring (versus 1/16" o-ring from merc.) makes a perfect seal everytime. You may also want to consider quad rings for your tilt piston since cleed down is common. Also, if you hydraulic line is stuck just cut the tube and use a 6 headed socket to get the fitting out. If you tear up the female threads then you're screwed. Kunifer brake line with stainless or brass fittings makes a perfect replacement. In US kunifer is marketed as "easy bend". Without further ado - <br /><br />description<br />mercury p/n generic p/n<br /><br />propeller spool bolts<br />25-62702 AS568A-010<br />driveshaft bearing cage<br />25-90011 AS568A-139<br />propeller shaft spool<br />25-F24278 AS568A-238<br />shift cover<br />25-54030 AS568A-041<br />TILT HEAD SEAL, top<br />N/A AS568A-206<br />TILT HEAD SEAL, internal<br />N/A AS568A-112<br />TILT HEAD SEAL, bottom<br />25-F654618 AS568A-125<br />TILT PISTON SEAL<br />25-F654984 AS568A-123<br />TRIM HOUSING<br />25-F40278 AS568A-140<br />TRIM PISTON SHAFT<br />25-F449342 AS568A-117<br />TRIM PISTON SEAL<br />25-F449278 AS568A-327<br />PUMP HOUSING (Square Ring)<br />N/A AS568A-147<br />PUMP VALVE / SHIFT COVER<br />N/A AS568A-151
 

jjmesa2000

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Joined
Mar 22, 2006
Messages
13
Re: Force Tilt & Trim Pivot Rod

Re: Force Tilt & Trim Pivot Rod

Thanks for the info RRitt. I thought for the moment that I was an isolated case. Thanks again.
 

RRitt

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Joined
Mar 30, 2006
Messages
3,319
Re: Force Tilt & Trim Pivot Rod

Re: Force Tilt & Trim Pivot Rod

keep your eyes on ebay. Since I had to buy in bulk, I've got enough parts to rebuild a bunch more of these things. <br /><br />Maybe you can help ...<br />buying most of the o-rings listed meant buying bags of 100 or 50. So I have enough o-rings to do another 23 rebuilds. <br /><br />What would be more appealing? A dirt cheap o-ring kit or a all-inclusive kit?<br />Postage will be more than o-rings. But the really difficult (and expensive) problems are probably shafts, shock eyes, armature cover screws, and frozen hydraulic fittings. By thie time I bought all the other parts, it cost me more like $35 per assembly plus $12 per hydraulic line.
 
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