Forever to top speed, 86 50hp evinrude

[oldboat1]

ob wan say you need to be sure you have an oem key, and that the tapers have been cleaned (acetone or similar), and torqued to spec. 105 ft. lbs is probably what is called for, but not sure. You may not be spinning it fast enough when cranking. Get the battery load tested, or perhaps the starter needs to be disassembled and cleaned.

 

[Smz rude 86]

Just purchased a new battery when all this started...
i got the flywheel torqued down good and snug now. I got the key from an evinrude dealer so it's OEM part. The key looked to be stainless?

Why would I get such **** poor spark? I mean it's better than when I lost spark completely but...

 

[oldboat1]

Flywheel has to be spinning at approx. 300rpm. If the battery is good, as you say, the starter may need attention. And it's possible, of course, the ignition is weak -- may need to replace power pack.

On the starter/battery issue, you might jump from your truck battery directly to starter (not the solenoid or the boat starter). Pos to the post on the side of the starter, neg to the mounting plate. See if it spins faster.

 

[TrueNorthist]

I have one of these: https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/m...-0111592p.html

Has the oomph to spin up an 8 cylinder and has a nice hidden feature. Connect the alligators to the starter and use the battery switch on the power pack to energize. No sparky sparky. Likewise for boosting. No go boom.

 

[juno pierrat]

when fly wheel was off, did you notice dark sticky goo under charge coil or trigger coil

 

[Smz rude 86]

update,
voltmeter tested the starter when starting and reading 9.8V. more than enough to crank over. But i still put the car battery cable on from my car while running and still no start.

Juno, yes i checked and no black goo of death. But i got a manual and I am going to multi-meter the stator tonight or tomorrow to get some rough readings.

I placed an order for a new power pack so that will be going on as well...
If that doesn't work then the only thing left could be a broken temp sensor?, and maybe a kill switch going crazy? (kill switch is a stretch as there is still a small spark), or both spark plug coils? ugh

its either that or i replace the stator, coil inductor....

and someone may ask so i will include, no magnets are loose on the flywheel.

I feel like i am chasing a ghost here...

 

[Smz rude 86]

So got the new power pack yesterday. Put it on and tested with an old spark plug. The biggest and fattest blue spark I have seen on an old outboard.

Installed onto the motor and puff puff backfire. Changed the coil wires around and she purrs like a kitten. Now it's will be off the the water to test under load and to apply prop resistance in the water.

So for the records to anyone looking for help with similar symptoms. I recommend the following checks and replacements in order to reduce costs for diagnosis.

note in Canadian dollars
Replace spark plug wires: $28
Multi-meter test couls: free
Check/replace flywheel key: $12
Clean carbs: $12 for carb cleaner and time
Fuel line, filter, primer bulb: $75
New cranking battery: $115
New spark plugs: $10
Power pack: $175... Don't buy Sierra... I got one up north and it was dead right out of the pack. Try getting kimpex.

I recommend doing all the checks recommended throughout this thread by everyone as well.

Thanks for all the help!

 

[TrueNorthist]

Fortunately there are few ignition components, and cleaning carbs is never a bad thing, but a good old fashioned parts hurling exercise can get pricey! Look at it this way: you've basically got a very reliable motor now, assuming it performs under load.

Don't forget, next time you hit a hot spot, paint an X on the bottom of the boat.

 

[Geoffrey Graydon]

Changed both spark plug wires for 28 bucks (forgot to add that to the what I've done list...)
checked compression and reading 128 upper and 135 lower... I'll have to wait to get a spark gap tester.

You say you paid $28 for new plug leads ,were they automotive leads? if so that could be your problem.You need 7mm copper cored wire ,available from NAPA by the foot and nowhere near $28.

 

[Smz rude 86]

Hey Geoff,

​​​​​​Leads and connectors were OEM replacement from a evinrude marine dealer.

And yes it was a slight parts hurtling effort. The only thing you could argue I could have saved on was the battery but it's 3 years with me and God knows how long the previous owner used it for before me

And changing spark cables and fuel lines is just always a good idea for a new to you motor. Along with the impeller change. Got this motor for 750 with controls and cables and another 200 got me a original power tilt trim. So upgrading from a 20 HP to a 50 HP came to about $1300 and I sold the old 20 HP for $800. So not a bad trade up/HP:$ investment.

 

[juno pierrat]

power trim question, what the part number for that? or just an Ebay deal.

 

[TrueNorthist]

I've had so many clients refuse a new waterpump etc it ain't funny. Always the same reason: "it's working fine and I hardly use the boat". I just shrug and say fine then, but never forget to log the refusal on the invoice.

You did fine imo. Sometimes finding a fault can be complicated and makes mice of most men, and women.

Oh, and I've had good success using a spool of 7mm f class high heat silicon wire with stranded copper core, routed meticulously on the powerhead of course. Over the top for most CDI Johnson/Evinrude with 1-3" lengths, but essential on "600 foot tower of Mercury" inline 6 cylinder motors with long plug leads. Especially if they use a VHF.
Spark plugs appear to last longer with good wire.

 

[Smz rude 86]

Hey Juno, Google "1986 evinrude 50 HP" you should be able to pull up parts diagrams for all different segments of the motor and has a full parts list for the trim tilt. Should be the same for 40-60hp of that era.

Trunorth, people are crazy. I duck hunt and get into some bad waters so impeller every year is a must. Even have a line of 400 lb test mono to reverse feed through the water outlet hole incase it gets clogged. Ask me how many time that saved my motor...

All things considered the parts list was small and removing the fly wheel was easy so I am quite happy. Water tested this morning and now my speeds are reading 36 mph. Go as fast as out fiberglass boat with a 75 HP now and uses a quarter of the gas. Best fishing boat for my waters for sure.