This is a continuation of a Topic I started on 8/4/2019 with most recent posting on 8/19/2019 (moderators please tell me if I should have continued or linked to original thread ). Sorry to leave Joe Reeves and any other folks in suspense about what dimensions this Carburetor has. After an 8 month hiatus I got back to this project...
I got the motor running in water tank, although it doesn't start easily (usually needs starter fluid) and it still doesn't seem to achieve full RPM's . Plus the pee stream is weak. I am currently awaiting Water Pump Kit (to arrive this week). Meanwhile I replaced the Starter Rope and removed the Carburetor. Metal bowl of carburetor had some debris in it but not very bad compared to many others I have seen. There were several drops of water (I run only non-ethanol fuel), possibly enough to make engine run rough. To recap "vital signs" compression is OK but not great 80psi each cylinder, spark jumps 5/16 inch, fuel pump and crankcase vacuum are good. However Carburetor Throat dimension seems weird. Using thin but stiff cardboard templates, throat is definitely greater than the 0.625 inches that LeeRoy's Ramblings indicate for 9.9hp but definitely less than 0.875 for 15hp--seems to be around 0.700. In the throat there is visible a machined "flat" that is not the "as cast" metal . This flat measures 0.700 inches. A couple questions: 1) is this 0.700 "flat" normal (i.e. LeeRoy's 0.625 is wrong/different?) , or does this indicate a Previous Owner modified from an "as cast" 0.625 inches? 2) to do a thorough Carb Cleaning, do I need to remove Welch Plug(s)? If so, should I remove/clean the larger Welch Plug on top of Carb, or the smaller Plug Partway down the side of Carb (on Starboard side, near Choke Lever). If I remove the Plug(s) is it OK to reinstall with JB Weld to avoid buying a Carb Rebuild Kit? 3)I am unable to remove the brass insert that the Float Needle ride in--but air blows freely through this--so OK to not remove/clean?
BTW I haven't yet done the Kill Switch Bypass test for 2 reasons : 1) there doesn't recently seem to be a problem with intermittent fire and 2) I am unsure how to do the test!
Thanks for any input.
I got the motor running in water tank, although it doesn't start easily (usually needs starter fluid) and it still doesn't seem to achieve full RPM's . Plus the pee stream is weak. I am currently awaiting Water Pump Kit (to arrive this week). Meanwhile I replaced the Starter Rope and removed the Carburetor. Metal bowl of carburetor had some debris in it but not very bad compared to many others I have seen. There were several drops of water (I run only non-ethanol fuel), possibly enough to make engine run rough. To recap "vital signs" compression is OK but not great 80psi each cylinder, spark jumps 5/16 inch, fuel pump and crankcase vacuum are good. However Carburetor Throat dimension seems weird. Using thin but stiff cardboard templates, throat is definitely greater than the 0.625 inches that LeeRoy's Ramblings indicate for 9.9hp but definitely less than 0.875 for 15hp--seems to be around 0.700. In the throat there is visible a machined "flat" that is not the "as cast" metal . This flat measures 0.700 inches. A couple questions: 1) is this 0.700 "flat" normal (i.e. LeeRoy's 0.625 is wrong/different?) , or does this indicate a Previous Owner modified from an "as cast" 0.625 inches? 2) to do a thorough Carb Cleaning, do I need to remove Welch Plug(s)? If so, should I remove/clean the larger Welch Plug on top of Carb, or the smaller Plug Partway down the side of Carb (on Starboard side, near Choke Lever). If I remove the Plug(s) is it OK to reinstall with JB Weld to avoid buying a Carb Rebuild Kit? 3)I am unable to remove the brass insert that the Float Needle ride in--but air blows freely through this--so OK to not remove/clean?
BTW I haven't yet done the Kill Switch Bypass test for 2 reasons : 1) there doesn't recently seem to be a problem with intermittent fire and 2) I am unsure how to do the test!
Thanks for any input.