Fuel additive for new season

rickhise

Cadet
Joined
Feb 4, 2008
Messages
13
Mercruiser 6 cylinder, elec fuel pump runs great had an issue getting fuel to carburetor all is good now. I put about 40 gallons of gas in her 3 weeks ago .
On top of about 25 gallons that wintered from. Oct till now April .

What would you recommend that would address any carb issues additive wise. Especially for potential carb issues! From sitting
Also any. Treatments overall for gas setting idle in an alum tank. For 120 days approx

Thinking my tank is approx 80. Gallons

Thank you if you took time to respond

I won't cut a Connor for the the proper additive
 

JonBrown

Seaman
Joined
Apr 4, 2016
Messages
56
I recommend to my customers that they put the additive in the fuel on their last run of the season. Putting it the tank does nothing without mixing and flowing into the system. And there is a difference especially here in Texas such as summer blend (Gasoline)and etc. Different blends in different areas cause different problems. Any carburetor will or has the possibility of sticking a needle valve due to condensation or dirty fuel settling. I think it is a debate also about how much fuel to have in the tank at season closing. I like to see 10% fuel in the tank. The tank will condensate so a good racor or water separator will be desired. A full tank will eliminate condensation a bit although it is hard to control the fuel quality in that amount if it breaks down. So in short, make sure if you use additive it is all the way in the system and mixed well. Per run it last run. Small amount of fuel can be pulled out and replaced easier if it goes bad . 3 Months isnt that long. I would worry about 6 months storage. And never cheap out on filters. 90% of my service work can be eliminated by using and replacing filters. HPDI engines are absolute in this matter. And most fuel preservatives are equal. Hope this helps.
Jon
 

rickhise

Cadet
Joined
Feb 4, 2008
Messages
13
I recommend to my customers that they put the additive in the fuel on their last run of the season. Putting it the tank does nothing without mixing and flowing into the system. And there is a difference especially here in Texas such as summer blend (Gasoline)and etc. Different blends in different areas cause different problems. Any carburetor will or has the possibility of sticking a needle valve due to condensation or dirty fuel settling. I think it is a dalso about how much fuel to have in the tank at season closing. I like to see 10% fuel in the tank. The tank will condensate so a good racor or water separator will be desired. A full tank will eliminate condensation a bit although it is hard to control the fuel quality in that amount if it breaks down. So in short, make sure if you use additive it is all the way in the system and mixed well. Per run it last run. Small amount of fuel can be pulled out and replaced easier if it goes bad . 3 Months isnt that long. I would worry about 6 months storage. And never cheap out on filters. 90% of my service work can be eliminated by using and replacing filters. HPDI engines are absolute in this matter. And most fuel preservatives are equal. Hope this helps.
Jon



Thanks I like the idea of getting the existing fuel as low as possible near seasons end

If your reading. Is there such a thing as a carb vitamin to begin the season. I think you answered above no. Just a thought to mKe sure
 

JonBrown

Seaman
Joined
Apr 4, 2016
Messages
56
I personally do not think there is anything that can be added to help the carb. The fuel additive is even a debate for me. I haven't seen any proof that stuff does anything at all. But most people get their feelings hurt to tell them that. I have seen everything from trans fluid to oil put in the system. I think most of that is foolish. If the carb. sticks then "peck" lightly on the bowl and it will allow the needle valve to drop and probably 90% chance it will be fine. Every 3 years you can clean the bowls and replace floats and needles fairly cheap. I suggest for every 2 sets of spark plugs do a carb. service. But even that is debatable. My Liberator holds 100 gallons and I use nothing in it. My chris craft , diesel holds 400 gallons and I drive it about 40 hours a year and I put nothing in it. I haven't had problems.
 

stonyloam

Vice Admiral
Joined
Mar 13, 2009
Messages
5,827
The BEST thing you can do is run non-ethanol gas! A internet search for ethanol free gas will locate local stations that sell it.
 

harleyman1975

Ensign
Joined
May 12, 2003
Messages
959
I run non oxy premium in my boat and add 2 cans of sea foam in the fall. always runs just fine in the spring.
 

rickhise

Cadet
Joined
Feb 4, 2008
Messages
13
So a few comments additives are ya an na,
Would I accomplish anything by adding sea foam
Through out our season. April late through October

Weekend one hour out trips one hour back houseboat engine 2k Rpm s for the most part never over 3k
M
 

JonBrown

Seaman
Joined
Apr 4, 2016
Messages
56
I like Marvel Mystery Oil and some like seafoam. Both are good for carb and cleaning. To much cleaner is bad for a 2 stroke engine. Use what you like . But the best faith is in you and not a liquid. Maintain and preventive maintenance. The non-ethanol is better for setting , I would agree with that. But also a occasional start in off season is good too.
 

HT32BSX115

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 8, 2005
Messages
10,083
I run my 44 gallon tank down to somewhere around 1/4 or less in late AUG, and park the boat. Then around May or June, I fill it up and go boating.

Still don't fully understand why some think a mixture of light oil, naphtha and alcohol (and 1% lard in MMO) does anything useful.......... it evidently does make some people feel better.

But for many, (me included) Just filling the tank with fresh gasoline from the local fillin-station is sufficient.

And if you're only talking about 120 days.....I wouldn't worry about it at all.......

Oh, if you want NON-ethanol gasoline, go to http://pure-gas.org/ to find suppliers near you that CLAIM to provide it.

BUT, many of them say they provide it and don't. So if you're going to go to the trouble to get NON-ethanol gasoline, you'll need to test it to ensure that's what you're getting!

Here's an inexpensive tester https://www.eaa.org/en/eaa-shop/2265797900000__alcohol-test-kit

And how to test it http://www.595.eaachapter.org/apps/videos/videos/show/16280625

I however, don't bother with the test. I don't waste my time trying to find NON-ethanol fuel either. It's not worth the trouble.


Regards,


Rick
 
Last edited:
Top