I recently was forced to put a new short long block in my 2008 Stingray 4.3GXi, as part of the the complete overhaul I decided to service the fuel cell as per
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...oach-to-the-volvo-penta-fuel-cell-5-0gi/page2
and
http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating...iceable-volvo-penta-fuel-cell-serviced-3.html
These are my additional notes:
-If you have an issue with your fuel cell, your injectors need gone through as well! I only had a small bit of paint failing right around the pump ports and my screens had a small amount of debris in them but my injectors were DIRTY. Don't believe me? Carefully remove them without spilling fuel, cap them with your finger and shake vigorously, then pour fuel onto a white paper towel. That's just the loose stuff! I use https://www.fuelinjectorconnection.com/ for all of my injector needs. I had their standard cleaning/flow matching service completed in 1 day.
-The intake side injector O-rings are not the 'standard' automotive size on the MPI. They are actually 15mm red GM seals which are close to the top rail side 14.5mm Bosch ring. If you do send out the injectors, request the 15mm seals, save and re-use the old ones or go to Napa in the 11th hour and buy 6-8 of their injector O-ring kits.
-I completely disassembled the fuel cell and used Aircraft paint stripper and a brass brush to remove the paint, only from the internal surfaces. I managed to preserve nearly all of the external paint.
-The cooling side of the reservoir was far worse then then the fuel side in my case. For what its worth, even with 8 years of mostly salt water use, the paint in the fuel cell was still in much better condition then the paint on my out drive.
-Soak down all of the screws with penetrating oil a day before disassembly. I did not and ended up wringing a screw off, luckily just the retaining screw for high pressure pump which was easily drilled/tapped for a 10-24.
-Lubricate the O-rings before attempting assembly! Some of them are very tight and its easy to cut a ring going in.
-In my case, not all of the O-rings required are in the parts list on the hulltruth page... The low pressure pump requires 4 O-rings not two. They were indeed 112's, however the high pressure pump rings were not 112's. I was in a rush (dont do maintenance the day you are leaving for the lake!) so I was forced to re-used the old O-rings. If I tear it back apart, I will put a caliper on them and post the size.
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...oach-to-the-volvo-penta-fuel-cell-5-0gi/page2
and
http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating...iceable-volvo-penta-fuel-cell-serviced-3.html
These are my additional notes:
-If you have an issue with your fuel cell, your injectors need gone through as well! I only had a small bit of paint failing right around the pump ports and my screens had a small amount of debris in them but my injectors were DIRTY. Don't believe me? Carefully remove them without spilling fuel, cap them with your finger and shake vigorously, then pour fuel onto a white paper towel. That's just the loose stuff! I use https://www.fuelinjectorconnection.com/ for all of my injector needs. I had their standard cleaning/flow matching service completed in 1 day.
-The intake side injector O-rings are not the 'standard' automotive size on the MPI. They are actually 15mm red GM seals which are close to the top rail side 14.5mm Bosch ring. If you do send out the injectors, request the 15mm seals, save and re-use the old ones or go to Napa in the 11th hour and buy 6-8 of their injector O-ring kits.
-I completely disassembled the fuel cell and used Aircraft paint stripper and a brass brush to remove the paint, only from the internal surfaces. I managed to preserve nearly all of the external paint.
-The cooling side of the reservoir was far worse then then the fuel side in my case. For what its worth, even with 8 years of mostly salt water use, the paint in the fuel cell was still in much better condition then the paint on my out drive.
-Soak down all of the screws with penetrating oil a day before disassembly. I did not and ended up wringing a screw off, luckily just the retaining screw for high pressure pump which was easily drilled/tapped for a 10-24.
-Lubricate the O-rings before attempting assembly! Some of them are very tight and its easy to cut a ring going in.
-In my case, not all of the O-rings required are in the parts list on the hulltruth page... The low pressure pump requires 4 O-rings not two. They were indeed 112's, however the high pressure pump rings were not 112's. I was in a rush (dont do maintenance the day you are leaving for the lake!) so I was forced to re-used the old O-rings. If I tear it back apart, I will put a caliper on them and post the size.